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I'm considering the 250PDS. The main use is visual, and the second is EAA (I currently use a zwo183mm).
What I'm hesitant about is the primary focus. since It's mostly for visual, I'm wondering on how much back focus it has compared to the standard Skywatcher 10" dobsonians? with the standard dobsonias with the same optics and focuser you already need an extension tube for most eyepieces...
Also, there's probably a "bigger" obstruction (bigger shadow on primary)?
I have a SkyWatcher AZ-EQ5 mount. It’s all working fine, except I have an issue with alignment. This applies whether I’m in EQ or Alt-Az mode.
I set it up using one or two star align without problems.
However if I use the handset to GoTo another object, I usually need to do fine tuning adjustments to centre on the new object. But the mount disregards these adjustments, so if I use the GoTo system to centre on a nearby object, or revisit the original object a second time, it’s still off by the same amount.
How do I tell the mount that I have centred on the new object and that it should now be aligned with that object ?
My iOptron MiniTower has a feature that does exactly this – once set up correctly and aligned, for each new object I go to there is an “ALIGN” option, and if I use this it now knows the correct position. Can I do this with SkyWatcher and Synscan ?
The 6th January was clear and still and so at last a good night for imaging (not perfect as Moon was still waning).
My 8" SW 200P Reflector was wanting to be used and so it was carefully mounted onto the HEQ5 and payload maxed out with the imaging train.
Yeah I know - this combination is a big ask for the job (but an EQ6 is beyond me at the moment!). Anyway with careful balancing and hardly any wind it was worth trying!
Nebula were best targets and again new ones for me.
These were the Bubble Nebula, Cave Nebula and Monkey Head Nebula. The Optolong L-eNhance Dual Narrowband Filter was used for all images.
Usual calibration frames and dithered instead of Dark's. Other 'Astro Stuff' is in my signature.
Any constructive criticism's welcome.
Bubble Nebula (Sharpless 162) 15x240secs (1 hour of data).
Cave Nebula (Sh2-155) 7x240secs & 23x300secs (2hrs 23 mins).
Monkey Head Nebula (NGC 2174) 44x240secs (just under 3hrs).
Hi all, just getting straight to the point.
Just got a Rasp Pi 400 (equivalent to Pi4-4GB), and looking to get into guiding through this as it's obviously a popular (and successful) technique.
Plan is to have the RPi as mini computer at home, running it with RaspPiOS (supplied on µSD with the full kit), then use it with a SECOND micro SD card for astro - I figure having another SD to run Astroberry (as on SGL) may ignore any issues with the family using the pi for other stuff in the house, giving a stand-alone 'computer' as the OS and files would be available on different SD's.
From this point, I'd setup as follows:
Connect the RPi directly via USB to the mount (it's the newer SW-AZ-EQ6Pro with the USB-B port on the mount)
Guidescope (240mm f/4) with T7C (equivalent to ZWO Mini) again USB-B direct to RPi
Nikon DSLR (either on telescope or using camera lenses) connected to RPi via Nikon USB (using the 3 USB points on the RPi-400) to control capture and later using this for plate-solving (but that's not for just right now!)
I don't spy any flaws in the plan, it's just going to be a matter of testing and setting things up hoping to follow the guide for Astroberry as linked to SGL below...
Or is there an alternative OS? From brief reading, Astroberry includes KStars & PHD2 which is what I've got for use on the macbook (although not used in earnest as it doesn't appear to like the cold too much!)
What about guiding software - I know KStars comes with it's own, and can run PHD2 from within, with PHD2 being the industry standard (and simplest?) to use?
Control will then be sitting in the warm via OS-X, which seems to be again a common technique as I've had posts on my other questions about this!
Just thinking how this setup would compare to normal astrophotography setups. Imagine a Nikon coolpix p1000 on an equatorial mount. Has anyone done that yet?
As I saw in the YouTube videos about the camera, it has absolutely no chromatic aberration, so I assume it's got apochromatic lens. It's magnification is extremely good (125x with 16MP sensor). The aperture is quite small tho compared to many different refractors available.
So what do you think about the idea: astrophotography with a Nikon?