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Lukeness

How to get longer exposures than 30 seconds

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I own a Canon 700D and the longest I can do on an exposure is 30 seconds unless I hold the button down my self which I really dont want to do.

Is there a setting in the camera where I can put it to like 5 minutes or do I have to buy a remote for it?

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Slightly more expensive, but I also use the camera during the day. It just feels so right on the camera epecially when shooting potrait.

Battery Timer grip

Of course using the supplied EOS Utilities and control from a laptop is also possible.

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Slightly more expensive, but I also use the camera during the day. It just feels so right on the camera epecially when shooting potrait.

Battery Timer grip

Of course using the supplied EOS Utilities and control from a laptop is also possible.

I used a battery grip on my Nikon they make it a lot more stable, but if its going on a to be used as a AP camera on a scope its going to add to the weight....

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If you have access to using a tablet check out  DSLR controller https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.chainfire.dslrcontroller&hl=en, its an excellent program that let you control your camera by remote. I think I paid less than £5.00 . All you need is an " on the go " cable  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go  for your camera that lets the camera communicate with the tablet 

Edited by cosmojaydee

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There are a few other options too.

http://triggertrap.com/ (I use this method using iPhone or Android to trigger camera) http://triggertrap.com/products/triggertrap-mobile-kits/ about £22 quid

Download different camera firmware (http://www.magiclantern.fm/) not sure if it works on your model but worth a look. Do read up first if you go this way as it can affect warranty etc.

Wifi dongle and Canon EOS remote (I also use this as my 6D has wifi built in).

I use own/use one of these http://www.hahnel.ie/index.cfm/action/productSearch/pid/80

Hope this helps

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ML does work on the 700D no problem so far. In any case it resides on the SD card so not much risk IMHO.

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I myself prefer the mobile phone intervalometer apps, they sometimes require a diy dongle but they are much easier to see and use at my age (tablet apps would be fine also).

I do also use a battery grip for AP I have not had issues with the extra weight and the extra battery life is a big plus.

Alan

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I used a battery grip on my Nikon they make it a lot more stable, but if its going on a to be used as a AP camera on a scope its going to add to the weight....

It does, but as I discovered, not only do you get twice the battery life (as the battery grips have 2 batteries), but also as the batteries are further away from the sensor you do not get any amp glow as they warm up.

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Avoid batteries and their weight and heat with an AC adapter, or 12v adapter (easy to make). BackyardEOS for operating the shutter?

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In m mode on the camera in shutter speed select bulb.

Not when you press the button the shutter will stay open until you press the button again. This is the built in camera function.

As pressing the button will introduce shake it is best to use a remote shutter release cable. Either a simple one or one you can programme or one of the many other ways already mentioned on this thread.

Edited by happy-kat

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A thought - long exposures are done on the tripod with a remote shutter release. Some remote shutter switches do have a timer built into them.

My Panny GH4 goes to 60 second plus B-bulb only in manual mode but there is a Panny remote/timer release (DMW-RSL1), and there are several cheaper similar non-OEM releases.

And so there are for Canon too :grin:

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It does, but as I discovered, not only do you get twice the battery life (as the battery grips have 2 batteries), but also as the batteries are further away from the sensor you do not get any amp glow as they warm up.

i use my Canon 600D in a Obby so it gets a Mains PSU and a empty battery case with  the leads in place,  just another way to get the imagine done...:)

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I have myself seen cheap Li-ION batteries (and others) explode in the lab under test, and I do mean sparks, flames, shrapnel, flying debris and loud scary bang; instrument under test catastrophically  destroyed  too.

Cheap batteries or worse knock-offs can and do get very hot in use. Hence I try to only use the hideously expensive OEM batteries which last a lot longer charge and barely get warm.

The AC adaptors I've got have rather dodgy looking wall-wart PSUs and no earth lead. Now if you can touch any exposed metal part of mains operated equipment then it should be earthed. This is not only for safety but can also reduce electrical noise on the system. I know one can argue that the PSU are low voltage but they are so cheaply made that I can envisage a fault dumping live mains onto your scope's ironmongery: your RCD should cut off; always use an RCD breaker on this kind of stuff. A simple mains spike filter and conditioner may also be beneficial in reducing noise too; mains is noisy so if it gets near sensitive instruments it can and will introduce noise (Murphy's Law): batteries are electrically the quietest.

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