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Modify dslr or buy clip in filter first?


aqualand
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I want to get my 1100d modified but given the light pollution in my area im also looking at a clip in cls ccd filter.

I can't afford both at the minute but which is the best to get first? Is it worth getting the cam modified and using it in heavy light pollution without having the filter?

Thanks

Garry

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I have an 1100d modified and have a cls filter. When shooting nebula, I expect you will get more data in a given time by having your camera modified rather than unmodified. However if galaxies are your thing then the filter might be your preferred first choice.

I like both and I think I would choose to mod the camera first as I can always take the scope to a darker location but to get the most out of your setup at home, it sounds like you will need to pay for both. I assume you have the compatible light pollution for the filter.

After I modified my camera and bought the cls filter, AP became much more enjoyable for me again.

Good luck

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Personally, I would go for the modification first. I am in a similar boat, same camera, unmodified, lots of light pollution with no filter yet etc.

You can buy a 'cheap' LP filter, and then, when you buy the clip in one, sell it on for pretty close to what you bought it for. I think the Skywatcher ones are about 20 pound on ebay :)

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I want to get my 1100d modified but given the light pollution in my area im also looking at a clip in cls ccd filter.

I can't afford both at the minute but which is the best to get first? Is it worth getting the cam modified and using it in heavy light pollution without having the filter?

Thanks

Garry

Hi,

Get the camera modified first then use either the CLS CCD or CLS Clip.

A.G

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I recently went through this dilemma myself. I have 700D which though a very good camera was increasingly failing to capture Ha and similar type objects properly. I already have a CLS filter which has helped a lot with LP but, of course, it still does not deal with Ha.  However, I also enjoy using the camera for terrestrial photography and didn't really want to compromise the camera by modding.  Although using custom white balance or post-processing it can still be used for terrestrial, this seems like a lot of messing around to me.  

Another solution is to use an OWB (original white balance) clip-in filter, which restores the modded camera for terrestrial use. However, if you are using an EF-S lens the filter will not work as the back of the lens is too long and hits the filter.  Beware, this is true for any in-camera filter like the CLS but would be OK for an EF or other makes of lenses. 

In the end I got lucky as a modded 550D came up last week on another Forum at a good price, so I went for that but unfortunately have not used it yet, so a final opinion awaits.  Good luck.  

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Personally I'd get the clip filter first ... And then when the funds are available, mod the DSLR. If you live in a heavily light polluted area you'll be left in the same position after you've modified your DSLR if you still don't have an LPF (Not being able to do long subs and images which are generally under par). A CLS clip filter will make an amazing amount of difference to how much you can push your DSLR, and you shouldn't underestimate how much detail you can get from an unmodded camera.

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+1 for mod first. Any filter can only take away data. Removing cam filter will  add. If you like nebulae, definitely. You'll end up with both anyway.

BTW I have the Baader filter sitting here, waiting for some tools to arrive so I can mod my own DSLR.

Edited by kalasinman
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To add to this another important thing to take into considering when you mod your DSLR is ensure you have a IR CUT/BLOCK filter somewhere there, otherwise images can be ruined.

So modifying a DSLR you would need to buy a filter anyways to ensure you can get the proper images out of it that are within the visible RGB spectrum.

This is one major reason i am not modifying my 40D and am saving up for CCD.

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Are you guiding? If not then modding first would be fine. But if you are, then you'd want to push for longer subs which will not happen without a filter. At the end of the day I think it's all down to how bad your light pollution is and how long you'd want to push those subs. If neither of these two are an issue, you'll gain more from modding your camera first.

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When you get your LPF, head over to Rosette nebula or the horsehead and try a 10 minute sub. You'll be amazed at what you're unmodded camera can capture. 

I took this 10 minute ISO1600 sub with an UNMODIFIED 7D holding an Astronomik CLS CCD clip filter mounted on an ED80 with a FF/FR working at around f/6.37. This is from one single sub (no darks or flats, just stretched A LOT). 

post-39400-0-54879200-1421271258_thumb.j

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Thanks Redmoo, hope it goes well. I was thinking the same until i read one of the tutorials and it mentioned soldering which put me right off the idea.

As far as the first choice goes, the ccd filter has been ordered from Modern Astronomy.

Hopefully be here in a few days, and plenty clear skies will follow.

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To add to this another important thing to take into considering when you mod your DSLR is ensure you have a IR CUT/BLOCK filter somewhere there, otherwise images can be ruined.

So modifying a DSLR you would need to buy a filter anyways to ensure you can get the proper images out of it that are within the visible RGB spectrum.

This is one major reason i am not modifying my 40D and am saving up for CCD.

Unless you use an all mirror system like a Newtonian!

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