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Jupiter 6/12 from Bembridge


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First post didn't work, so here goes again:

Jupiter at 3600mm with OO Europa 250, QHY5L-IIM, TV 3x barlow, Baader LRGB and PP742 filters:

RGB:

post-26731-0-37038500-1417847536.png

IR-RGB:

post-26731-0-25722100-1417847541.png

I was playing with my new SGL ascom focuser, controlled directly with Firecapture.   This worked a treat, which is more than can be said for the SX FW, which 3 times tonight failed to advance the filter.   Not sure if this is a FC issue or the FW, but will have to resolve.   Collimation also a little out, but although conditions were nice, star testing was difficult due to the big tube catching the wind.

Edited by SnakeyJ
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First post didn't work, so here goes again: Jupiter at 3600mm with OO Europa 250, QHY5L-IIM, TV 3x barlow, Baader LRGB and PP742 filters: RGB: IR-RGB: I was playing with my new SGL ascom focuser, co

Sounds like good ideas from Lee there Jake. I once talked to Emil, about this, and if I remember the convo. He said something like he never felt the need to replace to a 9 point. with he's 10" Meade.

I will bet your right, my laser always shows the primary moving, through the night, its Mirror slop. you probably have the same cell as me, problem is you try to tighten the cell more, you risk mirror

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They are looking really good Jake , particularly the IR version :-) id be happy with those .

Judging by the GRS I'm assuming you were outside about 4.30 ish as was I for once! I had to do numerous deals on the girls and our 1 month baby girls shifts to get out undusturbed ! Very rusty but got going after a while. No idea on the outcome .... Will take a while to grab the time to see what mess I captured , so I'll hope they come out half as good as yours .

Nice to see Jake thank you.

Simon

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Afirst for me - an animated gif from 5 RGB captures (15 stacks and lots of processing)!  I can see that a colour camera would be quite useful ;)

post-26731-0-93683600-1417879606.gif

post-26731-0-53655300-1417879783.gif

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The IR cuts through better Jake. There's a softness I am getting that is similar to the softness in your Straight RGB, its why I keep over processing trying to bring out the detail. At least your not over processing Jake. Doing a good job with what we are getting

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The IR cuts through better Jake. There's a softness I am getting that is similar to the softness in your Straight RGB, its why I keep over processing trying to bring out the detail. At least your not over processing Jake. Doing a good job with what we are getting

Thanks Neil - the PP742 definitely brings more at 10" aperture and gets some nice detail around the GRS.    I think the softness is probably seeing and focus, though have a suspicion that my collimation may be drifting as I tilt the ota.   Need some better seeing for a star test tune up!   I got lots of data from the 14th, but nothing to beat this - though I will post another animation up when I get the processing time!

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Thanks Neil - the PP742 definitely brings more at 10" aperture and gets some nice detail around the GRS.    I think the softness is probably seeing and focus, though have a suspicion that my collimation may be drifting as I tilt the ota.   Need some better seeing for a star test tune up!   I got lots of data from the 14th, but nothing to beat this - though I will post another animation up when I get the processing time!

I will bet your right, my laser always shows the primary moving, through the night, its Mirror slop. you probably have the same cell as me, problem is you try to tighten the cell more, you risk mirror astigmatism.  its good to realign the primary halfway through the night. My Baarder laser does a good job. it coincided well with my glow in the dark coli cap.

Edited by neil phillips
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Jake, I know you've been a good boy this year, Santa said you can buy both.

Lee

I would need to be very good indeed - the OO mirror cell for the 250 is £ 200 + PP + VAT, though I will speak to them nicely and enquire if they offer a discount for Europa owners ;)    With the right tools I could make one, but probably not quite as nice - it would also double the price of the scope!  I could then add the steeldrive and probably end up paying not far off the new price for a VX10!

I have just pushed the button on a Hotech, sh from ENS though.    Not a massive saving on the new price, but I can't be reckless on the spending around Christmas!

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Great detailed images Jake. Love the animations also! Blimey there`s a stark difference with the IR filter isn`t there? Much sharper  and pulling out more detail.

                                   Best regards,

                                                          ralph

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Good Points Neil, which beg the question, what to buy for Christmas. The new OO 9 point cell, or a decent laser?

Fitting a new cell to Europa may not be as easy as you would think. I tried this, but ended up selling the cell, Because the Focal length was different. The new Orion cells will bring the focal length to a different point compared to the old cell. I know you have the shorter tube, so I have no idea how this will work out for you. But it didn't for me. Which peeved me off a bit to be honest. because I was told none of this when I purchased the cell.

If you don't mind tweaking the collimation during the night. Its a no brainer to me. I would get a Glow in the dark colli cap, there really very very effective. And from what I can see almost 100% Effective in collimating the primary. For the secondary of course its a different matter, a laser would be needed. or something similar. But trusting a laser isn't such a issue I don't think on a well made glow in the dark colli cap. You can see straight away when the primary is centred so long as you have a spot on the centre of your primary. you just put the spot right in the centre of the glowing small circle that is lit up like a Christmas tree. Once the glow is activated by a light source. strong torch or such like.

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Fitting a new cell to Europa may not be as easy as you would think. I tried this, but ended up selling the cell, Because the Focal length was different. The new Orion cells will bring the focal length to a different point compared to the old cell. I know you have the shorter tube, so I have no idea how this will work out for you. But it didn't for me. Which peeved me off a bit to be honest. because I was told none of this when I purchased the cell.

If you don't mind tweaking the collimation during the night. Its a no brainer to me. I would get a Glow in the dark colli cap, there really very very effective. And from what I can see almost 100% Effective in collimating the primary. For the secondary of course its a different matter, a laser would be needed. or something similar. But trusting a laser isn't such a issue I don't think on a well made glow in the dark colli cap. You can see straight away when the primary is centred so long as you have a spot on the centre of your primary. you just put the spot right in the centre of the glowing small circle that is lit up like a Christmas tree. Once the glow is activated by a light source. strong torch or such like.

Neil,

Thanks for the caution on the mirror cell, that's probably saved me from an expensive disappointment.    I've done some searching on a glow in the dark collimation cap, though there seems to be little info out there, or a commercial source.     Have you made your own one, using a standard colli cap and some luminous tape?  Or do you recall where you acquired yours?    I have a nagging feeling that we've already had this conversation last year, though I haven't been able to dig the original thread up, though you've mentioned this method in a number of previous SGL threads.

The laser will be an advantage for tweaking from the back of a long tube, though I can just reach on my F4.8 - I have no idea how you can manage this with the F6.3 ;)    The other advantage with the laser is it will allow me to tilt the ota and asses the degree of flop.   The mirror cell has three nylon centering screws, which I have gently tightened to minimise the play, but I have been cautious to avoid over doing this.     Perhaps I could replace these with some shims/packing, which would work over a larger area.     I need to remove the cell to check and replace the centre marker, so will give it some more thought.   It will also give me the chance to replace the springs and some better primary adjustment knobs.

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Jake,

I have to admit I thought about replacing the cell with something better but decided that the overall advantage was minimal.

Be careful about over tightening the nylon screws at the side. I overdid mine and pinched the optics quite a bit.

In the end I used some hi density rubber between the nylon screw and mirror and also used the rubber between the clips and mirror. this has made a lot of difference in keeping collimation.

I also replaced springs and the wing-nuts and added a fan and vent holes at the back.

Lee

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