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- Nikon D3300
- Celestron Astromaster 130EQ
- T-ring + Barlow x2
I will explain this as briefly as possible.
Because I cannot photograph in direct focus with my telescope and camera, I have to use the x2. when there is a full moon, it does not enter the frame, it comes out around the edges, so I think I should make a mosaic.
The problem is that I do not have a motorized mount, so anileation is critical.
The problem with PIPP is that it does not correct the rotation of the moon, so it does not work for me.
I aligned the photos in Photoshop, and exported them in tiff.
I then moved them to Autostakkert! 3 and it stacked without any problem. Use 40% of the best frames.
Finally, I use RegiStax6, and when using the waveletes, as seen in the image, it generates an incredibly loud noise. I don't understand what I'm doing wrong, is it RegiStax, is it AS! 3 or is it Photoshop.
(Errors are clearly seen in the lower part of the product because I do not have a mount, but it has happened to me in other images and the same does not happen with the noise.)
I do not understand and I am desperate as it is horrible not being able to photograph a full moon decently.
I urgently need someone to help me. I put all the general details for you to understand, if you need to know more, please let me know. a greeting.
(below demonstrative image)
Hey everyone. Have previously stumbled across this forum when searching for answers to questions, have finally made an account.
Last night I shot the moon for a couple of hours. I took around 10x3 minute videos and captured a little over 80,000 frames. My aim was to then create a lunar mosaic image but I have never done this before, and my technical ability seems to be adding to the confusion.
So to give some context, I used an ASI120MCS planetary camera through an 8" Skywatcher Skyliner 200p dobsonian.
I have read that ideally you would use a tracking mount to record sections of the moon at a time, however I sadly don't have that luxury.
I instead let the moon drift across the field of view and I'm pretty confident that among the 80,000 frames I have all the pieces of the moon as a whole.
What I'm now having issues with is how to break down these Avi files into frames which then can be used to create a mosaic. I need a "for dummies" guide ae thats what I'm feeling like currently.
Thank you in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide. :)
After many hours of fiddling round with Registax wavelet settings to process my own solar system images, I've always been curious as to how it actually works. In doing so I've put together my own image sharpening program which does something similar to Registax wavelets. For comparison, I've also added some general purpose deconvolution techniques which you'll probably be familiar with from other image processing software (like Wiener inverse filtering, Richardson-Lucy, etc). In choosing a point spread function to deconvolve with, one suprising result was that the typical stack outputs from Autostakkert work best with a Lorentz point spread function (with a minor modification). Deconvolving with a Gaussian point spread function doesn't really work. Deep-sky images seem to deconvolve best with a Moffat point spread function (which is to be expected - it's already well established that star profiles in long exposures are best approximated with a Moffat function).
On the whole, it's unlikely that you can sharpen solar system images much more in this program than you already can in Registax. You can see results from Registax wavelet (sharpening layers), inverse filtering (e.g. Wiener), and iterative deconvolution (e.g. Landweber) below. They all give very similar results. In all the techniques there's a similar trade-off between less noise but less detail vs more noise but more detail.
There are some quick start notes on the first page of the Readme here:
There are some examples of deconvolved images here (move mouse over image to see before/after):
Image credits are on the hyperlinks
The Windows download is here:
Example solar system tifs to experiment with are here:
And the project page is here (with Source code in the src folder)
If anyone finds it useful, do post here how it compares to other tools you use for solar system image sharpening.
The download and the source code are free, you can use it unrestricted for any purpose. The OpenCV and OpenCVCSharp components which my program use have licence information at the end of the Readme.pdf.
I was out recently in what felt like the first clear sky in years and got ~109 min of data on M31, minus 76 frames due to a 12mph wind, which left me with 69 min of data (each shot is 45 sec with ISO 200 tracked with skywatcher star adventurer). As mentioned in the title I captured all these images in a bortal 8 location, used an unmodified canon eos 400d and the skywatcher 75ed as the scope (with a flattener). I've attached my edit (warning: it is not great at all + slightly overedited to see what details are even there), and to be my surprise it looked very similar to an image of M31 with only 20 min of data which i captured a month earlier (both of which i used DSS and photoshop for). Now this may well have something to do with the way i edited it in photoshop or a different setting in DSS or just the fact that 49 more data doesnt make much of a difference considering im in a bortal 8 location, maybe you guys could help on that. I've attached the link to the original files (in the folder called 18.2.2021) as well as the stacked image from DSS (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12NT4TmLCXvTfOXNPE_l8UWPRpgO2VjLe?usp=sharing). I didnt capture any flat images but have dark and bias frames, all in their correpsonding folders in the attached link. It would be greatly appreciated if you guys could see if there is more data in this then i have managed to 'extract' using photoshop. (If you use different software and try and edit these files please tell me what you used) If there isn't then maybe do you guys have any images of M31 (or similar) from very light polluted skies that you could share here? (If so i would if you could share the full exposure time and gear that would be great)