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Narrowband

Lets capture M1


pyrasanth

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December 2012
T: MN190
C: IMG2Pro
F: Astronomik Ha, OIII, SII
M: NEQ6Pro + EQMod
G: SX OAG + SX Lodestar
Soft - 
Capture: Sequence Generator Pro
Guiding: Astroart 5
Process: Pixinsight
Ha : 10 x 600 secs 1x1
OIII: 10 x 600 secs 1x1
SII: 10 x 600 secs 1x1

 

post-5221-0-99168300-1419005444_thumb.jp

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How you finding the atik 314L plus.............ive just received mine from ian king imaging. You happy with it??

Sorry for the delay in replying. I love the 314L. It's an amazingly low noise and sensitive camera. I don't bother with darks anymore as a result, but I do take BIAS and flats. Enjoy your new purchase! I got my RGB last night of my crab so will post my HaRGB later. :D
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Hi

Here are my 2 renditions of M1, stats are the same for both, which are:

RGB 4x5m each binx2

Ha 20m, 4x15m.

No calibration frames.

They were processed slightly differently, the 1st one is  an HaRHaRGB (HaR as luminance, and Ha mapped to red), the second one a Ha(L)HaRGB (Ha as pure luminance and ha mapped to red, hence dimmer/fewer stars).

Andy

post-26582-0-24975900-1419104331.png

post-26582-0-10221500-1419104349.png

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I went for the Crab last night & started imaging at a somewhat late 02.00AM & I needed quite a lot of subs so time was a bit against me. I settle on 20 eight minute exposures- 40 minutes each (5 x 8) in Red, Green & Blue with 40 mins in L/IR-UV-Cut (5 x 8). I used Baader LRGB filters on an Atik 460 mono 2x2 Bin.

attachicon.gifM1.jpg

Let me know what you think!

 Great shot

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had another look at this object last night & here is the result:

This was shot using Baader Narrow-band filters & once again has no luminance applied. I will get a CLS filter eventually for luminance.

attachicon.gifM1-WIP6.jpg

This is a very good effort but your image has a couple of problems. The back ground is clipped to pure black and there is also a very strong green cast which aesthetically is not attractive, yet this is my opinion and others might think differently.

I have corrected it a bit. You also mentioned that you need to add Lum to the image. If this is an NB image then adding Lum is not beneficial as the details are in the NB data, you may consider Lum in RGB imaging to help with detail.

Regards,

A.G

post-28808-0-66729700-1420022565.png

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This is a very good effort but your image has a couple of problems. The back ground is clipped to pure black and there is also a very strong green cast which aesthetically is not attractive, yet this is my opinion and others might think differently.

I have corrected it a bit. You also mentioned that you need to add Lum to the image. If this is an NB image then adding Lum is not beneficial as the details are in the NB data, you may consider Lum in RGB imaging to help with detail.

Regards,

A.G

Thanks for correcting the image. It looks a lot better in your rework. I still have much to learn but I think with a little time & help from people like yourselves I will get there. I am awaiting on the arrival of an on axis guider in the New Year. This has the exceptionally useful feature of dynamic focusing so it will focus as exposures are being taken to seamlessly correct for temperature variations which can subtlety shift focus between imaging subs as well as none par-focal issues between filters. I find focus to be quite tedious even when using tools like focus-max so I'm looking forward to sharp-lock doing this work dynamically for me and hope this will help improve my images.

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Here is my HaRHaGB (I think) of the Crab. This is 1 hour each channel using 10 mins subs.

I mapped the Ha into the R and then used the Ha as a luminance. I made good progress in Pixinsight, using only the linear image, and then used Straton to remove the stars and process each seperately. I hope you like.

post-19531-142009417175_thumb.jpg

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I tried capturing the Crab before I modified my Canon 1100D camera and not much was revealed. After modification the results were a lot better, so if I were you I'd image in Ha at the very least, RGB alone will probably not be enough...

get.jpg

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Some really nice contributions there - here's my effort. TBH it doesnt seem to so good as some of my other images, and I'm not sure why. Looking around, this subject does seem to produce quite varied results. Most other contributors are using CCD, so I guess my DSLR image will be less detailed, and also my scope is quite short so the detail may get lost a bit when zoomed in.

Also I only had a limited number of lights and the moon was around and about 0.5. It was very cold, and I think my focus may have shifted a little. Mirrors were clear I think.

If anyone has any ideas about the image quality I'd be interested. 18 lights at 300s ISO 800, master/dark/flat/bias, gear as signature. Shot 28th Dec 2014. DSS + paint.net.

The coma corrector is next on the (long) list!

post-33831-0-68025200-1420121266_thumb.p

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some really nice contributions there - here's my effort. TBH it doesnt seem to so good as some of my other images, and I'm not sure why. Looking around, this subject does seem to produce quite varied results. Most other contributors are using CCD, so I guess my DSLR image will be less detailed, and also my scope is quite short so the detail may get lost a bit when zoomed in.

Also I only had a limited number of lights and the moon was around and about 0.5. It was very cold, and I think my focus may have shifted a little. Mirrors were clear I think.

If anyone has any ideas about the image quality I'd be interested. 18 lights at 300s ISO 800, master/dark/flat/bias, gear as signature. Shot 28th Dec 2014. DSS + paint.net.

The coma corrector is next on the (long) list!

I think the crab nebula being a small objects demands image scale which comes from a larger aperture or longer focal length. A longer focal length puts far greater demands on the guiding ability of the mount & unless you have a massive mirror exposure times are increased again compounding the requirement for guiding accuracy. I think one of the problems in your image is the small scale which causes the detail to merge into a blob. Potentially it's a nice image albeit very red! I find that my OSC which uses a matrix similar to a DSLR is unusable with out an LP filter as the colors are horrible & I suspect I would get similar with a DSLR.

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I think the crab nebula being a small objects demands image scale which comes from a larger aperture or longer focal length. A longer focal length puts far greater demands on the guiding ability of the mount & unless you have a massive mirror exposure times are increased again compounding the requirement for guiding accuracy. I think one of the problems in your image is the small scale which causes the detail to merge into a blob. Potentially it's a nice image albeit very red! I find that my OSC which uses a matrix similar to a DSLR is unusable with out an LP filter as the colors are horrible & I suspect I would get similar with a DSLR.

With an OSC you'd need a very good nebula filter and very long subs, 600s+ and a large number of them in the region of 35. You'd then have enough data to start giving it a serious stretch without getting the noise up too much. Of course dark skies are a must but how many of us back garden imagers have this luxury? Not me for sure.

Regards,

A.G

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