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Let's see your 1st DSOs

MartinB

By MartinB
in Imaging - Deep Sky

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kaymado

kaymado

Posted
Posted

Neil, if you liked that one, check this one out. Again, im a bit unsure if it is what i think it is, but it could be NGC 869 at the top of perseus constellation. Quite liked it too for my first shots with tracking working.
Still getting to grips with exposure times, triggering the camera without shakes and finding the targets as its really hard to see where you pointing with a camera on the focuser (specially with LP filter!!) and after having pushed the viewfinder several times with my glasses 8-)

post-26684-0-80727300-1383355502_thumb.j



 

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MartinB
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New imagers often worry about posting their first deep sky pictures but they shouldn't, we all had to start at some time. I thought it would be interesting to record our first fumbling efforts. So let

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Here is my first ever DSO. It is 17 exposures of 5 seconds manually tracking by hand for each exposure as i dont have motors for my mount yet.  Stacked in DSS and edited in PS Elements to drown out th

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moondog

Here's my first DSO attempt. M13. TAL 100RS 4ins refractor on HEQ5 mount. Canon 350D EOS at prime focus. 6 subs 45 secs @ 800 ISO. Processed with Deep Sky Stacker and Photo Shop Elements. (click to en

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Sandancer10

Sandancer10

Posted
Posted

Hi Kaymado

I can't remember, but does the 450D not have live view with a moveable screen?  That's what I use to 'see through the scope'.  You could also use a remote to trigger the shutter, that would stop the slight movement caused during the shutter button activation. Or, put the camera on 2 or 10 second delay for firing.

:smiley:

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kaymado

kaymado

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Hi Kaymado

I can't remember, but does the 450D not have live view with a moveable screen?  That's what I use to 'see through the scope'.  You could also use a remote to trigger the shutter, that would stop the slight movement caused during the shutter button activation. Or, put the camera on 2 or 10 second delay for firing.

:smiley:

Hi Sandancer, 

Nope, the 450d does not have a pop out display. The 600D has, which i also have, but im not modifying that one yet.

Most of the time the display is actually pitch black thanks to LP filter.

I will try using my kindle as a screen/trigger with the DSLR controller application next time.

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kaymado

kaymado

Posted
Posted

you can use a tablet to control the telescope?

Neil.

I can use it to control the camera :-) aperture, shutter speed and to trigger it , but mostly for preview and checking after taking shots.

The screen on 450d is Rubbish and also saves the battery on the camera and I guess produces less heat.

Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire2 using Tapatalk

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kaymado

kaymado

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What app are you using for this Kay and how do you hook it up to the tablet?

Neil.

Android app "DSLR controller". But I needed custom ROM on kindle as it doesn't normally support it. It will work with most android devices though, except HTC (unless running custom roms).

I'm using cyanogen mod ROM.

Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire2 using Tapatalk

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kaymado

kaymado

Posted
Posted

Android app "DSLR controller". But I needed custom ROM on kindle as it doesn't normally support it. It will work with most android devices though, except HTC (unless running custom roms).

I'm using cyanogen mod ROM with miniUSB to microUSB cable

Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire2 using Tapatalk

Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire2 using Tapatalk

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wxsatuser

wxsatuser

Posted
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Not my first, but i'd say its my first proper (ish) attempt now that i have the clock drive.

Taken last weekend from the heart of Edinburgh using an LP filter through SW 200PDS and modified Canon 450D - no stacking but added some spikes on PS to make it cuter :)

I think it's the M103 near cassiopeia but im not entirely sure, my straight finder was killing my neck! Perhaps some can confirm?

attachicon.gifm103.jpg

Thats NGC1502 Kay.

It's a small cluster near one end of Kembles Cascade.

ngc1502.jpg

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Demonperformer

Demonperformer

Posted
Posted

Really struggled tonight to get any focus tonight. Has anyone got any tips for prime focus ?

Hi Robert

What (if anything) do you already use?

A bahtinov mask is the common answser, but a really good (and cheap/easy to make) alternative is the Y mask.  Simply make a ring of card that goes round your OTA, then cut three thin strips of card and make them into a 'Y' shape over one end.  There are formulae for working out the exact ratio of width to OTA size, but i have never bothered and it works really well without bothering.

In case this is new (feel free to ignore this paragraph): go to a bright star and take a picture with the mask in place.  This will produce 'X' spikes across the star with another bar cutting through the X.  Adjust the focus until this extra bar exactly bisects the 'X', You now have perfect focus. GOTO the object you want to image and enjoy!

Most importantly - remember to remove the mask before taking your proper photos (been there, done that, got the T-shirt!).

HTH

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RobertC

RobertC

Posted
Posted

A 

Hi Robert

What (if anything) do you already use?

A bahtinov mask is the common answser, but a really good (and cheap/easy to make) alternative is the Y mask.  Simply make a ring of card that goes round your OTA, then cut three thin strips of card and make them into a 'Y' shape over one end.  There are formulae for working out the exact ratio of width to OTA size, but i have never bothered and it works really well without bothering.

In case this is new (feel free to ignore this paragraph): go to a bright star and take a picture with the mask in place.  This will produce 'X' spikes across the star with another bar cutting through the X.  Adjust the focus until this extra bar exactly bisects the 'X', You now have perfect focus. GOTO the object you want to image and enjoy!

Most importantly - remember to remove the mask before taking your proper photos (been there, done that, got the T-shirt!).

HTH

A bahtinov mask is on my list to buy. At the moment i am using a canon 60d with t-ring simply fitted to the standard focuser that is on a 200P. I have it connected to the laptop so i can see the view on a larger scale for ease of focus ( or not ). :) 

Can i ask what OTA is ? I'm not yet familiar with the terms used by the advanced astronomers.

-Rob

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Demonperformer

Demonperformer

Posted
Posted

Sorry, shouldn't use abbreviations - Optical Tube Assembly.  You have the 200P, so it would be a ring of cardboard to go round the end that points at the sky.  If the bahtinov is on your 'list to buy' I would strongly recommend you make up a Y-mask first and try it.  People tend to fall into either the 'Y-mask' camp (there's more gap so the image is brighter and so easier to focus) or the 'bahtinov' camp (the spikes are more pronounced and so easier to focus). Like most of these divisions, the only way you can decide which you are in is by trying them, but as the Y is so easy and cheap (actually, you don't even need to make a ring to go round the scope, just three lengths of card, cellotaped/stapled/whatever into the right shape, with the ends turned down so it doesn't fall off) I would say it has to be worth a try.

If you have live-view on the 60d(?) you can get approximate focus before you start taking short images to refine it.

HTH

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RobertC

RobertC

Posted
Posted

Sorry, shouldn't use abbreviations - Optical Tube Assembly.  You have the 200P, so it would be a ring of cardboard to go round the end that points at the sky.  If the bahtinov is on your 'list to buy' I would strongly recommend you make up a Y-mask first and try it.  People tend to fall into either the 'Y-mask' camp (there's more gap so the image is brighter and so easier to focus) or the 'bahtinov' camp (the spikes are more pronounced and so easier to focus). Like most of these divisions, the only way you can decide which you are in is by trying them, but as the Y is so easy and cheap (actually, you don't even need to make a ring to go round the scope, just three lengths of card, cellotaped/stapled/whatever into the right shape, with the ends turned down so it doesn't fall off) I would say it has to be worth a try.

If you have live-view on the 60d(?) you can get approximate focus before you start taking short images to refine it.

HTH

Just went ahead and built one, made it so it will stay on the scope no matter where it is pointed. Covered it in duct tape to weatherproof it better :) Had a very close call with the tip of the craft knife, it snapped off and off places bounced off my eyelid. So close !

29o1wl0.jpg

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wxsatuser

wxsatuser

Posted
Posted

Neil, if you liked that one, check this one out. Again, im a bit unsure if it is what i think it is, but it could be NGC 869 at the top of perseus constellation. Quite liked it too for my first shots with tracking working.

Still getting to grips with exposure times, triggering the camera without shakes and finding the targets as its really hard to see where you pointing with a camera on the focuser (specially with LP filter!!) and after having pushed the viewfinder several times with my glasses 8-)

attachicon.gifngc869.jpg

Hi Kay

this one is M34.........nice set of blue stars.

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HenryW

HenryW

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Posted

My first attempt few weeks ago (21.11.13)

Canon EOS 550D and a sigma-> 200 mm

25 lights Exposure time=1,6 sek

15 darks and 15 bias

Stacked in DSS and prosessed in PS With Levels and curves

Not much, but it was a wow moment for my first attempt

post-8905-0-78429100-1385834596_thumb.jp

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Demonperformer

Demonperformer

Posted
Posted

My first attempt few weeks ago (21.11.13)

Canon EOS 550D and a sigma-> 200 mm

25 lights Exposure time=1,6 sek

15 darks and 15 bias

Stacked in DSS and prosessed in PS With Levels and curves

Not much, but it was a wow moment for my first attempt

That is really nice for a first attempt, Henry.

Well done.

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