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My Very First Sun


DaveGarland
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Ok so this is my first go at imaging the sun using a PST and a Cannon 1100d.

Basically its just 12 pics that I've run through PIPP and then stacked with Registax6. I did take about 30 frames but Registax didn't seem to want to line them up properly, there was a big overlap. Actually i think the single frames seemed better than the stacked frame. Is there a setting I'm getting wrong? And is it better to take video or pictures? I assumed there would be more detail with a picture.

Clearly there's an issue with the focus too. I just zoomed in on Liveview and tried to get the edge of the sun as crisp as I could but is there a better way of focusing?

 post-15373-0-28669300-1405441040_thumb.j

Advice please chaps.

Dave.

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Using the 1100D you are automatically losing 75% of the available data as you are not utilising the Green 50% or Blue 25% of the pixels on the chip , the Ha data is all in the red end.

A mono webcam/planetary camera is the way to go.

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The main thing then is to concentrate on nailing the focus , this is always the critical issue regardless of camera and will enable you to get the most from the Canon.

And I would aim for an under-exposed sub rather than a 'correct' looking one , it's easy to tease out detail from a 'dark' shot but impossible to correct a saturated over-exposed image.

When you have what looks 'right' on the preview screen up the shutter speed a couple of notches.

It is well worth playing with the various settings regarding Colour Balance , Filter Effects etc as there might be a combination that helps , although I found the 1100D's Digic IV processor less than helpful compared to the 1000D's Digic III so I dumped it for another 1000D , but that was for Whitelight not Ha.

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Good first image. I try focusing on the spots or filaments myself, i had a go this evening but turbulence up there was quite bad so focussing was a little harder, morning sun is best and agree with above As2 all the way

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Hi,

A good first try, but colour cameras just aren't suited to the job.

As Steve said, you are throwing away 3/4 of the image, since you only get red through.  If possible, it might be worth pre-processing the subs to just read and stack the red channel data, don't ask me how to do it as I have no idea, Steve might know?, as you might be getting 'colour bleed' across the Bayer matrix as well.

For focus try the spots or filaments.

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If you have photoshop it's fairly easy to isolate the red channel.

First you select channels from the right hand side and it will show you your 3 different channels, discard the B and G and RBG if it's there by clicking on the 'eye' and that will leave you with just the R channel. Immediately you will see the detail jump out.

Then you can process just the R in greyscale via the 'image' drop down, select 'mode' and the greyscale and discard the BG. Save it and take it over to registax and play with the wavelets and then you can add the colour back after and add the final tweaks.

It's best just using the 1 frame but if you can batch a handful into just the R then there is no harm in stacking them I guess.

Edited by JB80
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I think the B&W option in the 1100D essentially just "processes" the colour image into B&W. At the end of the day the sensor still has a bayer matrix to provide colour imaging capability so you will still only be using 25% of the chip to image with. Consequently you are better off shooting in RAW and the pulling either the red or green channel to get a final image.

I believe...... :smiley:

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