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What can you see in White Light?

AndyWB

By AndyWB
in Observing - Solar

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Joseki

Joseki

Posted
Posted

One last thought - there's a thin plastic layer/sheet on the baader film that's hard to spot, did you remove that? I've read of people not noticing it when they made their filter (quite experienced people too).

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Joseki

Joseki

Posted
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I haven't had a evo 80ed but the point of them is that they don't give much false colour (like you're seeing with your current scope), however you should read up about the baader continuum filter and what that can do for you. Its a filter that would be useful for solar even if you upgraded to an ed80 and wedge setup. There's also the issue of spherical aberration that might be better corrected in the ed80 but you can star test your current scope for that - plenty of info here on SGL about that.

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Solar_observer

Solar_observer

Posted
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It's really not just the fringing but the fact that when viewing the sun (which is why I bought this scope) I use 20x and the view is good not pin sharp bit good. Then when I magnify further,that's when it goes to pot. Yes the fringing gets worse,but detail (spots faculae etc) just gets worse. Too which there is no point in magnifying. It's not as though I'm going crazy on the magnification either,I try from 20x to a maximum of 40x........no good.

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Solar_observer

Solar_observer

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I asked about filters and 3 were mentioned....fringe killer......baader continuum and the semi apo. He said considering it's the blurring when going up in magnification,which is the main concern,it would be the semi apo be a better option.

But I quote " what are your real expectations with this scope,it's a fairly cheap,fast,frac which would require top notch eyepieces".

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Solar_observer

Solar_observer

Posted
Posted

post-25258-140319638148_thumb.jpgpost-25258-140319639334_thumb.jpgOk well this is amazing.....The first image is my full aperture baader home made filter 80mm. As previously stated having problems with fringing and lack of detail going above 20x.

Very frustrated I thought I would stop down (anything with a try). My second image shows this,just another piece of card with a 50mm hole pushed up behind the full film.

OMG .....The sun is hiding behind high cloud but I can push higher now and the detail is a LOT BETTER. fringing has almost gone. Need better conditions and more time,I've just rushed in to post this with excitement. If this is working ok,would it still be viable to go ahead and purchase the lunt wedge?

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Solar_observer

Solar_observer

Posted
Posted

Just had another look (still covered with high cirus cloud)

Slight loss in granularity visuals

Much much better spot detail (both umbra and penumbra)

Can achieve higher magnification 40x / 55x no problem,with loss of detail

NO fringing WHATSOEVER

this is a result :-) :-)

Might play about with maybe a bigger stop down until the point where I reach good detail to the point where I get fringing again.

The thing is.....do I still go ahead with the wedge?

IM A HAPPY BUNNY NOW :-) :-)

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Joseki

Joseki

Posted
Posted

I asked about filters and 3 were mentioned....fringe killer......baader continuum and the semi apo. He said considering it's the blurring when going up in magnification,which is the main concern,it would be the semi apo be a better option.

But I quote " what are your real expectations with this scope,it's a fairly cheap,fast,frac which would require top notch eyepieces".

glad to hear you got something sorted, btw I'm using a similarly priced frac, f5.5, 90mm with lunt wedge, continuum filter and now (for imaging) a uv/ir filter, Ive no complaints about that setup though I haven't looked through a sw ed120 yet.

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Joseki

Joseki

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Hi, yes I did. I did a diy one with baader film. I only got rid of it because I thought I might of damaged it. The biggest difference was I was happy letting the children look through the scope with the wedge (after I had) - when I got the wedge I was a bit disappointed that there wasn't much difference, perhaps there would have been with a better scope. The view was more crisp, but nowhere near the difference between viewing the sun from indoors through a window v outside. The continuum filter was quite nice and helped bring out the surface detail more but if I had to go back to just the film I wouldn't be too upset.

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Solar_observer

Solar_observer

Posted
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Hmmmm that last bit you wrote,might have just saved me some money :-)

The difference I've made stopping down has made a 90% difference for the better AND the transparency is pore with high cloud,so I would imagine I'm going to get FURTHER visual improvement.

I think then this will do me fine as I've got a lunt50tha on order,this is my main interest.

Thanks for all your help guys :-)

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Pig

Pig

Posted
Posted

Skem,

I find there is a very big difference when using the Lunt wedge compared to Baader solar film at both high and low power.

Maybe this difference  is because I used the solar film on an F10 / 9.25 SCT and now I am using the wedge on an 80mm / F6.3 refractor.

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Pig

Pig

Posted
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I am not sure TBH, my frac is not over expensive at about £500, it does have very good optics and my eyepieces are pretty good.

I guess It is all about what you want to see and what suits you. I was never able to see any detailed Penumbra, Crotchet patterns or Granulation with the Badder film but all are visible with the wedge.

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Stu

Stu

Posted
Posted

The continuum filter might have quite a good impact on the views through an achromatic. It's a narrowband filter so will remove the fringing you are seeing so may sharpen up the detail. Might be worth trying to borrow one to see how it goes. If you can get your head around the green sun then they are great!

Stu

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Stu

Stu

Posted
Posted

I wonder if A equinox 66mm ed,would better the views of this opticstar 80mm?

Tricky one to judge, but I would expect that with the continuum filter the 80mm would show better resolution, the filter should cut any fringing and sharpen the detail. Without filter perhaps it would be closer. An 80ED or similar clone would do pretty well.

Stu

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Solar_observer

Solar_observer

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Hmmmm I've stopped this 80mm down to 50 to get rid of the fringing but in doing that I can only magnify up to 50x which is not really close enough. I was looking at a evostar 90mm? Or the more expensive evostar 80 pro but I don't really want to stretch to that amount. Any scope will be fitted eventually with a wedge. I should have gotten one which was slower so it wasn't as demanding on cheaper eyepieces.

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