Astro_noob Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Is it possible to collimate a ba8 in the same way one would collimAte a skymaster type binocular? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BinocularSky Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 The collimation screws are under the rubber covering of the cover plate. Accessing them and making good afterwards is non-trivial. Also be careful not to inadvertently "adjust" the nitrogen fill port :-). But, if yours are out of collimation on arrival, send them back 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_noob Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Thanks for confirming Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossco72 Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Steve,Is this based on experience or reading on the net?I'm about to tackle this job and I am keen to read what i can in advance.CheersStuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BinocularSky Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 I haven't done it; I've just seen pictures and read what others have said. On the batphone, so expect weird autocorrect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossco72 Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 If you get a chance I'd be keen to see any links you might have.ThanksStuartSent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Dragon Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 I found the collimation instructions that TS sent me......it's all in German but easy enough to work out.It should be attached to this post....it's a Word Document.Good Luck.JustageanleitungMX Gläser.docx 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damo636 Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 This thread may be of use.....http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/126460-checking-and-performing-conditional-collimation-using-bahtinov-masks/The 2nd page has some pics of different breeds of binos with the location their collimation screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BinocularSky Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 The Google translation of this superb page is worth a read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossco72 Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Thanks for the info guys, its a pity no-one has done a really good set of instructions in English.Ill let you know how I get on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossco72 Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Here is my best translation for anyone interested.Helios Apollo collimation.docxRegardsStuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damo636 Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Thanks Stuart, I've saved that for future reference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossco72 Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 I had a start on my 22x85s last night. I've exposed all of the adjustment screws OK but wasn't really able to see two distinct images to align. However on drawing my head back the left exit pupil is about 1/4 of the circle lower than the right one. Should the exit pupils be level for a start?Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Dragon Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Hi StuartHave you tried de-focusing one side? If you have the focused star within the defocused circle, the nearer the centre the better, then your collimation is ok As far as the level of the exit pupils go, I can't say, my eyes are at different levels and one is deeper set due to a forceps birth. This adds to the variables to the extent that all bets are off.I don't look like the elephant man, by the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themos Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 If you have a green laser pointer, it's worth using it, by placing it between the objectives and aiming it forward. At night, the two images are resistant to merging because the laser line appears at different angles in the two eyepieces. You are aiming to put the two end points together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossco72 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 In the end I got professional help.The binocular repair centre in Glasgow, £60, full alignment and nitrogen topped up.If anyone is looking, you can contact them direct or through Viking Optical who use them for all UK repair work.Done an excellent job.CheersStuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Dragon Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Glad to hear it's sorted ........has it made a noticeable difference under the stars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossco72 Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 hopefully know tonight. So far cloud, cloud and more cloud.Needless to say as the moon gets full, the clouds part a little, typicalCheersStuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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