HEQ5 GOTO Imaging Advice

[CosmicOrangutan]

Hello Everyone,

Forgive me for my ignorance but i'm new to Astronomy and have really been getting into the hobby over the last 6 months with my tiny 80mm refractor.

I can finally afford to upgrade my setup and will be getting the Skywatcher 200p with HEQ5 mount and the standard Skywatcher GOTO system at the end of the month. 

I would like to be able to start imaging some of the fascinating objects i've seen already, using my Canon 600d. I am wondering what sort of time subs i would be able to capture with my DSLR just using the standard HEQ5 with GOTO system? 

Do you think i would be able to capture over 30 second subs just using the GOTO system with proper polar alignment? 

Also any extra tips regarding Camera settings (ISO, exposure etc) for photographing both planets and DSO's through a telescope would be most welcome as i am completely new.

Thanks in advance to anyone contributing  

George

[ronin]

With good polar alignment you should get 60 seconds and more.

The concern is the use of a 200P, they are big and act somewhat like a sail. Any breeze will make it move and the image is blurred.

Which bit of Dorset?

Basically any clubs around you that may have a bunch of imager to go talk to.

The 200P is 1000mm focal length, that means that the mount has to track twice as good then if you used a refractor of 500mm focal length, and being a 200P it isn't light, so better tracking and drive system again, and again the wind.

I know a lot use the 200P but the imaging fraturnity use small scopes as said often a refractor.

Since you have mentioned nothing other then imaging it s simply a note that you are getting a good visual scope to go imaging with, not necessarily a good imaging scope to go imaging with.

Camera settings: ISO 3200, 30 seconds (for longer you need a remote timer (Amazon ~£25), may have to set the camera to take it's own noise reduction. Allow sensor to cool between exposures (same time as exposure), Everything set to manual.

If the image is poor then hit the Delete button and try again.

P.S. Look for the 200PDS, the focuser is better suited to imaging with a DSLR.

[CosmicOrangutan]

Thanks Ronin, 

Im lucky enough to live deep in the countryside so light pollution isnt too much of an issue. Closest town would be Blandford, if you know the area can you recommend any Astronomy Clubs?

Glad to hear that i should be able to capture some average length subs which i can stack up on the PC. 

I would be using the scope for Visual observations as well but am becoming more interested in Astrophotography as it helps to bring out a lot more than Human eye can see. I suppose initially i would be using the camera as an extra pair of eyes to soak up even more light. I have been reading that Astrophotography becomes very addictive and that the mount is probably the most important part of a set-up. I have opted for an HEQ5 as im hoping it will allow me to upgrade over time with various guide scopes and other equipment without overloading. 

I understand about the size issue of the 200p, i would mostly be using the scope in the garden which is fairly well sheltered from the wind but i would like to have a portable set-up so i can visit star parties and get togethers. If you could recommend any other set-ups for under £1000? 

I have read that the 200p offers about the largest aperture which can still be transported but im happy to hear other suggestions.

[g0ibi]

I used a 200PDS with a HEQ5 and a Canon1000d quite sucessfully, good for visual as well. I moved onto a SW MN190 basically the same tube but with a big lump of glass at thr front!!

[CosmicOrangutan]

Thanks G0ibi, good to see that this setup has some potential. Would be very happy to get any results similar to your Flickr page photos!

Does anyone know if i would be able to bring out some colour from imaging Nebula and Galaxies with an unmodded 600d? I dont really want to mod my Camera just for astrophotography just yet as i enjoy daytime wildlife photography aswell.

[malc-c]

If you are opting to image as well as visual then get the 200PDS rather than the 200P.  Not only is the focuser designed for use with a dSLR, it has a slightly larger secondary mirror to give better field illumination when used with a camera.  With good polar alignment you should be able to get 60s, possibly 90 seconds near the pole without the need for guiding.

[malc-c]

Thanks G0ibi, good to see that this setup has some potential. Would be very happy to get any results similar to your Flickr page photos!

Does anyone know if i would be able to bring out some colour from imaging Nebula and Galaxies with an unmodded 600d? I dont really want to mod my Camera just for astrophotography just yet as i enjoy daytime wildlife photography aswell.

You will be able to pick out some colour with an un-moddified camera, but canon are not great for bringing out the reds of faint objects as the internal IR cut filter also cuts off some of the wavelengths we like to record.  You can pick up a second hand modded 1100D for around £200, or you can mod your own camera and replace the stock IR filter with one more suited for astro use, which will also allow you to continue to take normal images without the need to correct them in post production via software.

[CosmicOrangutan]

Cheers Malcolm, lots of interesting stuff. I can foresee a lot of trial and error but that's all part of the fun  

Any other tips or advice are most welcome!

[Carina Lass]

Your 600D will give you great colour on most stuff - even things like Eagle nebula - which is mostly red light.

Planets and other stuff will also look great - I have a 450 - a lot older than your model and I get lovely colours

[Stevie P]

I have the same set up as you, apart from the camera (canon 1000d), and dependent on conditions and my PA Ive managed unguided subs up to 2 mins (usually have to scrap a number of subs due to PE), but 60 to 90 seconds are very doable..

Theres a few images scattered through this thread http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/200510-the-30-minute-challange/

That might be of interest to you.

Its a tough learning curve....

[dph1nm]

Hmm. Depends on the mount. My HEQ5 has about 30" peak to peak PE (10min period), which as far as I understand is about typical. In 60sec on the equator than means an average movement of ~3" (depends where you are in the worm cycle of course). Given  a 600D at 1000mm FL has sub arcsec pixels don't expect too many untrailed images. I never do more than 30secs with a 1000D at 1200mm FL and I lose maybe 20% of those. Gets better at nearer the pole of course (the cos(Dec) term), but there is less area of sky and so fewer DSOs!

NigelM

[Tinker1947]

I used a 250P-DS on a NEQ6 this would on a good day do 60 sec subs, with a guide scope and a guide camera 10 minutes, so something for you to think about with your HEQ5 guiding with good PA will allow longer than you need subs, through in EQMod (long USB Lead) run from a indoors PC and once set-up and running will make for good imagine sessions.....

[Owmuchonomy]

Agree with all of the above. Regarding colour then below is shot with my stock 600D through my 9.25 SCT. To get true Ha emission you will need to do the IR filter mod. There are aftermarket sources for this service.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CosmicOrangutan]

Those are some great images, thanks to everyone else that has posted.

I'm definitely going ahead and getting the HEQ5 mount, but after seeing some more articles and posts on here i've got a few different ideas for the OTA. I may initially buy a smaller aperture OTA as imaging is going to be the next project. As Ronin said the 200p can act like a bit of a sail. If i get a smaller OTA initially just for imaging then i can always get the 200 or 250p just for visual observations and the HEQ5 should be able to handle this.

any ideas would be great, im thinking of the 130PDS or 150PDS.