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Russe

Imaging with the 130pds

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Hi everyone

It's good to have the reliable-no-nonsense 130 ready for wide stuff. Here's my CLS take on la roseta. I transferred the camera with oag intact after a session with another telescope, but with the intention of using the guidescope anyway. No need. Despite changing coma correctors, focus was perfect. Amazing!

Comments -especially on the colour scheme- most welcome. Thanks for looking and clear skies. 

700d, 2 hours

130-gfe.thumb.jpg.f489f4d2347da8cff337cadea9f02fc4.jpg

roseta.jpg

Edited by alacant
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On 1/15/2018 at 08:47, carastro said:

Still haven't been brave enough to take my SW130PDS to an Astrocamp as still uncertain of dew control

@carastro I am sure some will say I have wasted time and money, but since wrapping my scope I have had no dew issues at all. Maybe I have been lucky or maybe it works. Please ignore my rather sad looking camping mat dew shield for the st80 (its works well).

 

telescope.jpg

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Thanks for that Spillage, I did make a dew shield for the 130PDS with a metal coated camping map, but I can't seem to get the opening to stay circular, it could be my fault and I might have squashed it at some point, but even when it is on I find the focusser in the wrong place to keep it fixed on properly.   So have not bothered with it the last couple of times but then I am in an obsy at home. 

Also I need to take it off to put the Bahtinov mask on.  I think I need to have further thought on that and seeing your idea might have an effect on what I come up with.

Carole 

Edited by carastro

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I am sure I got the material from Lidl for a few quid. Its a insulation like bubble wrap covered in a silver material taped together with some old aluminium tape I had left over from my air conditioning instillation days.

I have always made my own shields quite loose and in a slight cone shape. As long as they do not hang down too far they have not got in the way.

 

 

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I made a shielded for my 130P-DS using campmat. I superglued it along the join and wrapped it with duct tape on the outside and lined the inside with flock (its white).

I store it by fitting the open end to the back of the scope. This means it is always nice and round, when I come to use it. It has a duct-tape arrowhead on the side so I know which way to fit it.

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Quote

I store it by fitting the open end to the back of the scope.

That's a good idea.

Carole 

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2 hours ago, carastro said:

That's a good idea.

I know, I was rather pleased with myself :icon_albino:

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On 2/4/2018 at 20:15, alacant said:

Comments -especially on the colour scheme- most welcome

Your colors are lovely, especially the nebula. If I was picky I would say too strongly blue stars and missing gradation in red/orange stars, but the subject is the nebula and it has IMO nice red-orange-grey-blue variations so nothing to complain :)

Wish I had an occasion to get that one but weather decided otherwise and it's now probably off for me til next year.

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everytime i open this topic im with my left hand on my forehead with the right hand scrolling and only one think comes to my mind * Holy S**t * ...that topic is actually insane

Edited by HEXZ0R
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On ‎2‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 15:34, spillage said:

@carastro I am sure some will say I have wasted time and money, but since wrapping my scope I have had no dew issues at all. Maybe I have been lucky or maybe it works. Please ignore my rather sad looking camping mat dew shield for the st80 (its works well).

 

telescope.jpg

I have a similar approach using camping mat from any sports shop, not only it provides a softer feeling when the frost is all around, it also protects the scope from hits.

I can assure you that I have suffered -5 degrees temperatures sometimes and the scope is absolutely free of dew. I even added a small 12V fan at the back in sucking configuration, but by the moment I had never the need to use it. Below an old picture at home

Cheers.

DSC_0630_thumb_jpg_b491c91ddb169b6f9d7d96586ef264ec.jpg

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Hi everyone. My annual visit to M42.

I tried a CLS to see what if I could get any of that greenish-turquoise you see occasionally. A little perhaps.

Cheers and Clear skies.

42-2.thumb.jpg.a7248b69eaa76f628f5f14095d068e8e.jpg

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Dear all,

After waiting for the fix of my QHY168C, we went finally for testing last Saturday, at -5ºC all the night the EQDir bluetooth module was unable to stablish connection with my laptop, so after polar alignment with the polemaster I had to use the handset instead of EDMOD. The pictures below for M42 and the pair M81, M82 were therefore done without any guiding.

In brief, Gain 8 Offset 2 Temp -10ºC for the QHY, subs taken with APT.

M42, 1s x 30 + 30s x 30 + 150s x 15.

M81 & M82 20subs of 150seconds.

Quick processing with Pix.

M42_small.jpg

M81_82_small.png

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Hi,

My latest image with the 130 and EQ5, this was more of a test of my 1000d post-mod. Ripping out the IR filter has certainly given this grandfather of DSLRs a new lease of life; I was considering replacing it a while back. :D 

 

Horsehead.thumb.jpg.7512591d65f02fb79135fbb30d92cccd.jpg

 

Also some Work In Progress data of M81 and 82, I won't really be able to finish this one until next year, which is a bit of a shame. The biggest problem for me right now is having to set everything up from scratch each session, also I usually wait for the streetlights to turn off after 0:00, then any subs which I take are gradient-free.

My plans for this one are some more 5 min subs to get the galaxies showing a bit 'cleaner', then some 3 min ones to capture more of the red filaments hiding in the Cigar. (This data was taken before I modified the 1000d.)

 

5a82aee1600d3_M8182(BodesandCigar).thumb.jpg.10ebbac43fd8f26b2e10d444c74daa22.jpg

 

John

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5 minutes ago, JohnSadlerAstro said:

Ripping out the IR filter has certainly given this grandfather of DSLRs a new lease of life

Hi John,

Do you have a before and after picture? I am about to pull the filter from my 350d and replace it with a Baader but keep loosing my nerve! Is the difference really noticeable? 

Thanks

Vern

 

Nice Horsehead BTW :-)

Edited by vernmid

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The only way I can get a before-after image is by getting some shots of the Rosette or M42, Ive really wanted to do that, but I stayed mostly away from the red nebulae before I modded, as I wouldn't have been able to get much detail.

This is a ton of 5 mins subs without modding, on the Rosette. The background is quite bad, this was before I reworked the control system and got dithering in. 

As you can see, Ive picked up blue in the neb, and only a bit of red.

5a82b1ae63a0b_RosetteNebula.thumb.jpg.1e22728692bf3eb256abb72ae4aab8fa.jpg

 On modding, I did do the mod myself, but only because of the very detaied instructions available online. I'm not sure they covered the 350.

John

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6 minutes ago, JohnSadlerAstro said:

As you can see, Ive picked up blue in the neb, and only a bit of red.

Thanks John. I have tried an image of the Horsehead on my unmodified 350d and like your Rosette it was lacking depth of red. I think I'll take a deep breath and get the tools out :-)

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Hi,

I used an old laptop box as my 'workstation', with the top half of it holding sheets to stick the removed screws onto, and the bottom half lined with white card so I could see clearly. The sides of the box prevent any runaway pieces. 

I am aware that at least one of the Canon DSLRs requires soldering, I'm not sure which one that is, though; do be careful!

If you want to, it might be worth looking over this; I listed the main sticking points of the 1000d modding process after I finished the operation. They will probably be a bit different in the 350, but it might be useful. :)

(No self-promo intended! ;))

Hope all goes well! (I never had a screwdriver which fitted, so I filed one down on the day ;):D)

John

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1 hour ago, vernmid said:

Hi John,

Do you have a before and after picture? I am about to pull the filter from my 350d and replace it with a Baader but keep loosing my nerve! Is the difference really noticeable? 

Thanks

Vern

 

Nice Horsehead BTW :-)

IMG_4163.thumb.jpg.8c88fb01c85dbdbc276e8bdb4b729c3e.jpgHH_iso800_x_22_x_360_v2t.thumb.jpg.c1c453c97c0fd70871ceef0354180783.jpg

 

Same setup from last year except guiding and camera modded. I've noticed a very big difference personally especially in the h Alpha objects. 

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8 minutes ago, Gerry Casa Christiana said:

Same setup from last year except guiding and camera modded. I've noticed a very big difference personally especially in the h Alpha objects. 

OK...I'm sold...Thank you

 

1 hour ago, JohnSadlerAstro said:

If you want to, it might be worth looking over this; I listed the main sticking points of the 1000d modding process after I finished the operation.

Will do. Many thanks.

So now I know what I'm doing this weekend! Will post hopefully successful results

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49 minutes ago, vernmid said:

OK...I'm sold...Thank you

 

Will do. Many thanks.

So now I know what I'm doing this weekend! Will post hopefully successful results

Obviously longer exposures with guiding make a big difference too. Also I wasn't using flats in those days BUT I know for example the California nebula I could barely see it last year. Now it's easy. 

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Inspired by recent activity here, I pointed toward the dreaded Alnitak. I thought a CLS may tame it a little. How silly of me...

700d, around 90 minutes

hh.thumb.jpg.8777ca1ada3a4493991a297c9a6ccd6e.jpg

 

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8 hours ago, alacant said:

Inspired by recent activity here, I pointed toward the dreaded Alnitak. I thought a CLS may tame it a little. How silly of me...

700d, around 90 minutes

hh.thumb.jpg.8777ca1ada3a4493991a297c9a6ccd6e.jpg

 

this level of contrast...im dying , its so cool

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Rosette, 86 2-minute subs with the 450D, cooled, no darks, first stab at processing, think I can do a bit better and also add Ha.

Amended, this is with 5hr 11 minutes across two years...

5a849445e35f5_Rosettefeb18.thumb.png.5a67983948a47b2a870f4396825d70be.png

 

Edited by Stub Mandrel
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Second review of the M42 subs, with better HDR set up, now the core is not burnt.

 

 

HDR_autoHist_Curves_final_small.png

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