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Just a few of the goodies ive had from the 130pds over the past few months:            

All images have been made with a Canon450D (unmodded), on a HEQ5 PRO goto, 9x50 finder guider (QHY5). Me and my garden gnome: several M51 crops: M97 & 108: M81 & M82 (& NGC3077): M81

Not great pics from me, but this is what i got so far since beginning with AP in august this year. No guiding and maximum time of expousures 30 sek.

Posted Images

laser_jock99, on 19 Sept 2014 - 08:29 AM, said:laser_jock99, on 19 Sept 2014 - 08:29 AM, said:

Any detail on this one? I'm so tempted by the 130PDS but I already have the TS 150 F4 . Can I justify another 6" Newt.......

Certainly, the lum was three hours worth on the 130pds (18x600 1x1 bin). The colour was taken from last years version with the 80ED, registar did the job of registering the two images. There will be more added, probably some extra Ha too. Ive no problem with re-cycling data shot in previous sessions, if its good data and its all yours, then why reshoot? lol... cant anyway because I sold my RGB filters to fund the move to 2". Maybe for xmas I will ask for Red and Blue 2" filters (green can wait!).

How are you getting on with the TS F4, have you managed to get a flat field (to the corners) out of it yet?

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It depends on how you are getting on with the TS F4, have you managed to get a flat field (to the corners) out of it yet?

Unlikely with an APS-C sized sensor! Cropping in PS is the answer. The corrected image circle of the ASA Keller coma corrector is 'only' 20mm sadly, not sure about my Baader MPCC III?

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laser_jock99, on 19 Sept 2014 - 5:38 PM, said:laser_jock99, on 19 Sept 2014 - 5:38 PM, said:

Unlikely with an APS-C sized sensor! Cropping in PS is the answer. The corrected image circle of the ASA Keller coma corrector is 'only' 20mm sadly, not sure about my Baader MPCC III?

20mm? hmmm, that probably wouldnt cover the 383 either (its 22mm). But Im sure you can increase that by fiddling with the spacing distance.

As for the MPCC MkIII, it managed to remove all of the coma so I can image uncropped with the 383 (using a centrally focused star) - not sure how much better it can do because ive never tried the DSLR on it. Something tells me it could possibly cope with APS sized sensors, but thats down to how well you are collimated (secondary has to be bang-on, no tilt), and how solid the focuser or tube wall is (I know you have much experience in that department!). The thing I do need to add though is focusing is critical - if youre out either side then the field wont be flat, thats why I always check my first sub closely to make sure its a reasonably good starfield.

All of the work I did on the 130 was in order to get every pixel used on the CCD, otherwise mosaics would be impossible. But for a telescope that cost me just £120, I think its done rather well :)

Edit: just need to add a thought.... I was wondering why there arent any baffles on 5 and 6" imaging newts.... there should be!

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JimFR, on 19 Sept 2014 - 5:57 PM, said:

How well does the 130pds respond to correction by the skywatcher corrector?

Look at the Veil and M31 photos above, they were done with the Skywatcher corrector.

However..... The Skywatcher does suffer from internal reflections when it comes to very bright stars (in broadband imaging), and its reduction factor of 0.9x although useful, does make it harder to get round stars all the way to the corner. It can be done, but it involves finding the "sweet spot" of the corrector - which takes up valuable imaging time.

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Look at the Veil and M31 photos above, they were done with the Skywatcher corrector.

However..... The Skywatcher does suffer from internal reflections when it comes to very bright stars (in broadband imaging), and its reduction factor of 0.9x although useful, does make it harder to get round stars all the way to the corner. It can be done, but it involves finding the "sweet spot" of the corrector - which takes up valuable imaging time.

Cool, thanks for the info. [emoji106]
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I haven't yet completed my 1 years cyclus as a beginner, but i think im into something. Soon they will be improved. I know what to do but haven't yet the means to acchieve better results .

A few of mine:

M 27

M27_240814Wide_zpsa0547fcc.png

M 13

fd92694ff1dd228b2e6002c50310effd.jpg

M 33

Messier_33_200914_small_zps2b5cd581.png

Moon

Maringne_1409_14_Croppednoblue_zpsf00f21

Moon

Moon0509140009UP_zpsa6f45036.png

Moon

PlatoCrater1_zps409522f6.png

And the setup

1024_zps040c3dc2.png

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I haven't yet completed my 1 years cyclus as a beginner, but i think im into something. Soon they will be improved. I know what to do but haven't yet the means to acchieve better results .

A few of mine:

M 27

M27_240814Wide_zpsa0547fcc.png

M 13

fd92694ff1dd228b2e6002c50310effd.jpg

M 33

Messier_33_200914_small_zps2b5cd581.png

Moon

Maringne_1409_14_Croppednoblue_zpsf00f21

Moon

Moon0509140009UP_zpsa6f45036.png

Moon

PlatoCrater1_zps409522f6.png

And the setup

1024_zps040c3dc2.png

Is that a CG-5?
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

I'm still thinking about getting one of these... I guess it needs a coma corrector? I'd really like to be able to use a filter wheel and a dslr. I'm wondering if the coma on the 130pds is worse (or better) than the field curvature on the Evostar 80ED - anyone know?

Cheers

Louise

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without a doubt you need a CC Louise..... 

i can not comment on the 80ED as ive only owned a SW 130...

a few stars from a couple weeks ago with the 130...nothing special, im not really feeling stars lol, im on the galaxy hunt now lol, but at least the cluster's are good practice for when the moon is out

15534060571_484e925a3e_b.jpg

NGC 869/NGC 884 - Double cluster by tingting44, on Flickr

Edited by tingting44
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without a doubt you need a CC Louise..... 

i can not comment on the 80ED as ive only owned a SW 130...

a few stars from a couple weeks ago with the 130...nothing special, im not really feeling stars lol, im on the galaxy hunt now lol, but at least the cluster's are good practice for when the moon is out

 

NGC 869/NGC 884 - Double cluster by tingting44, on Flickr

Hiya

Yeah but can't have cc+fw+dslr as far as I've been able to ascertain :( I don't suppose anyone has had experience of 130pds and 80ED - would be good to have a comparison re: distortions.

Louise

Louise

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Thalestris24, on 15 Oct 2014 - 6:06 PM, said:Thalestris24, on 15 Oct 2014 - 6:06 PM, said:

Hiya

Yeah but can't have cc+fw+dslr as far as I've been able to ascertain :( I don't suppose anyone has had experience of 130pds and 80ED - would be good to have a comparison re: distortions.

Louise

Louise

I have both, and have used both with the 383L+.

Out of the two, the 80ED is far easier to get better corners - but thats what youre paying over 400 quid for (the scope and the FF/FR). But for half the price, and a bit of tinkering you can get a remarkably similar field from the 130 (with a little more vignetting), but 1.6x faster than the reduced 80ED.

The only difference between your 150 and the 130, is size (and focal length) - thats all :)

If youre already comfortable with the workings of a reflector (taking it apart, flocking, cleaning, modding etc), then you should already be well prepared for what the 130pds may throw at you. So really its a choice of playing it safe with an 80ED, but spending more time on your subs - or going by the seat of your pants with the 130 and finish projects at a quicker pace, sometimes in a single session.  Comfort or speed? Cant have both when youre in bargain basement  ;)

Edit: But in defence of the 80ED, if you give it enough time and get your focus right - the images can be quite remarkable. It just requires a bit of patience for the longer subs.

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I have both, and have used both with the 383L+.

Out of the two, the 80ED is far easier to get better corners - but thats what youre paying over 400 quid for (the scope and the FF/FR). But for half the price, and a bit of tinkering you can get a remarkably similar field from the 130 (with a little more vignetting), but 1.6x faster than the reduced 80ED.

The only difference between your 150 and the 130, is size (and focal length) - thats all :)

If youre already comfortable with the workings of a reflector (taking it apart, flocking, cleaning, modding etc), then you should already be well prepared for what the 130pds may throw at you. So really its a choice of playing it safe with an 80ED, but spending more time on your subs - or going by the seat of your pants with the 130 and finish projects at a quicker pace, sometimes in a single session.  Comfort or speed? Cant have both when youre in bargain basement  ;)

Edit: But in defence of the 80ED, if you give it enough time and get your focus right - the images can be quite remarkable. It just requires a bit of patience for the longer subs.

Hiya

Thanks though I really wanted to know if one is better than the other in terms of use without a cc/ff since I want to be able to use a filter wheel with a dslr... Maybe there's no difference?

Cheers

Louise

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