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Russe

Imaging with the 130pds

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I gave the scope a try today with a nearby mountain here but i couldn't focus with the supplied 28mm 2" eyepiece

With the 1.25" eyepieces i had i was able to focus easily, could it be because of the distance of be subject?

Hi

I think you need to use the supplied 2" extension tube to use it with a 2" eyepiece. You should then be able to focus ok.

Louise

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Hi

I think you need to use the supplied 2" extension tube to use it with a 2" eyepiece. You should then be able to focus ok.

Louise

Thank you, Louise

it worked with the 2" extension tube :)

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Im just going to sob in the corner with my lowly 130p. No DS for me. Never have I yearned for two letters more :p

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I now have my astroboot 2" to 1.25 reducer, so i might be able to get a look through this scope, seems like i wont be using any 2" ep`s with it due to the other part being missing, should have waited and gone for a new one

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You only really need the full 2" for dslr work, but it is worth it - the field in the (hopefully!) supplied 28mm is good. You should be able to get a tube just about anywhere.

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My 130 came with the wrong top on the focus tube, it has a compression ring top, the 1.25 reducer seems to be from an evo star frac, and no 2" tube not that it would fit any way. The joy of the used market

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Hmmm.... do you have a 2" barlow you can take apart and use? My 130 came with a compression ring too (you've probably got the same TS adaptor), I ended up ripping the brass ring out with a pair of pliers, then drilling a third hole for another thumbscrew.

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Hi Folks, I'm still learning both my mount (EQ6 AZ GT) and the 130 PDS. Here is my March work in progress:

Looking good!

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My 130 came with the wrong top on the focus tube, it has a compression ring top, the 1.25 reducer seems to be from an evo star frac, and no 2" tube not that it would fit any way. The joy of the used market

Or, at a pinch - you could borrow the one from your 150pds, its exactly the same M54 thread.

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Hi TingTing,

My imaging train is a modded Canon 100D, a relatively light DSLR, fitted with a Skywatcher coma corrector. Also using an Astronomik CLS clip LP filter. Thinking of switching this to a Hutech  IDAS P2. The thing is.......the filter is about the same price as the 130 PDS......seems the wrong way round but there you go. 

As you can see, I am still plagued with gradient and focus hassles. I've been using DSS and Photoshop CS2 and running the Gradient Xterminator trial. For galaxies and clusters it works reasonably well but for nebulae I seem to fall into deep kimshee.

Star colours are coming out ok but I seem to muck up on curves and levels and colour balance.

Take the M81/M82 shot, for example. My individual subs clearly show a red hue in the middle of the M82 "cigar shape" structure. After stacking and histogram stretch and saturation shift, I seem to lose any red in the finished image.

Never mind, I'm learning a lot and loving the journey. Thanks to all in this forum for their inspiration ad tips, re balance. In time I'll switch to guiding and EQMOD and CCD but for now I'll keep learning my ABC and times tables, so to speak.

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Or, at a pinch - you could borrow the one from your 150pds, its exactly the same M54 thread.

I could, but its sale pending and should be collected at the weekend, i am not worried that i cant use 2" ep`s, just hope the 1000d comes to focus with 2" nosepiece 

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This is my first attempt with the 130p-ds.

I was trying to image the southern pleiades but i'm having some difficulty with the new scope as i was used to use only the camera to image with.

Did a try to plate solve it with astrometry.net but it failed.

here it is:

60x30s  @iso 800 subs, roughly drift aligned

no flats, bias, darks.

post-37532-0-09672900-1427509750_thumb.j

Please comment what you think.

Frank

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This is my first attempt with the 130p-ds.

I was trying to image the southern pleiades but i'm having some difficulty with the new scope as i was used to use only the camera to image with.

Did a try to plate solve it with astrometry.net but it failed.

here it is:

60x30s  @iso 800 subs, roughly drift aligned

no flats, bias, darks.

attachicon.gifsouthern2.jpg

Please comment what you think.

Frank

Hiya

That's not bad at all :) Not sure why it wouldn't plate solve but obviously you need to get a coma corrector at some point. You've picked up some nebulosity too which is better than I can do with 600s subs!

Louise

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Hiya

That's not bad at all :) Not sure why it wouldn't plate solve but obviously you need to get a coma corrector at some point. You've picked up some nebulosity too which is better than I can do with 600s subs!

Louise

Thanks, i figured why it wouldn't plate solve, i tried to place the camera perpendicularly to the scope, i rotated the picture 90 degrees CW and it plate solved almost instantly.

I think i'll have to buy the coma corrector sooner than i thought :)

Frank

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Thanks, i figured why it wouldn't plate solve, i tried to place the camera perpendicularly to the scope, i rotated the picture 90 degrees CW and it plate solved almost instantly.

I think i'll have to buy the coma corrector sooner than i thought :)

Frank

If you do get a cc then it might be better to get a non-reducing one as the reducing ones e.g. the Skywatcher seem to have the side effect of causing the focus tube to protrude too far internally... This has cropped up several times on other threads recently. It results in one side of the stars being flat sided.

Louise

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It's funny you should say that Louise, I've just noticed the same affect on my stars. I use the SW coma corrector.....time to shorten the focuser perhaps :D

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My take on Comet Lovejoy Q2....not sure when ill try another comet, think ill stick to stars and galaxies lol

16956830195_90f4db3421_z.jpg

Comet Lovejoy Q2 by tingting44, on Flickr

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It's funny you should say that Louise, I've just noticed the same affect on my stars. I use the SW coma corrector.....time to shorten the focuser perhaps :D

Maybe they should come with a 'health warning'!

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Awesome picture, is it still visible?

Thanks mate

yes its still visible, but only in the early evening, and its getting further away and a lot lower also, so far from ideal, this data i collected 10 weeks ago, only got round to processing it now, makes a "nice" change for me having back logged data lol :)

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Thanks mate

yes its still visible, but only in the early evening, and its getting further away and a lot lower also, so far from ideal, this data i collected 10 weeks ago, only got round to processing it now, makes a "nice" change for me having back logged data lol :)

I've always got a backlog cos it takes me so long. Invariably doesn't come out how I expect/imagine either.
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