Imaging with the 130pds

[Bibabutzemann]

 Iris Nebula ~13 hours under Bortle 5 (Heidelberg, Germany)

Equipment: 130PDS, EOS1200Da cooled, HEQ5

Processing with Siril, GraXpert and Photoshop

Its really tough for me to process.

 

I noticed when i do really long exposure times like 10hours+, the star bloating of even small stars becomes difficult to manage. My primary mirror baffle will arrive next week, hope that will improve this issue.

 

160min of M13:

[Pitch Black Skies]

20 hours ago, Jim Smith said:

Here is my new set-up with the longer, Losmandy dovetail bar.

Do you have a link to that dovetail bar?

[Jim Smith]

5 minutes ago, Pitch Black Skies said:

Do you have a link to that dovetail bar?

I do...

https://www.altairastro.com/altair-tms-losmandy-dovetail-plate-180mm-250mm-300mm-350mm-silver-197-p.asp

I bought a 300mm one.

 

[Bibabutzemann]

Many clear nights means i can afford high integration times. Thanks to the HEQ5, it does everything so well that i sleep tight at night.

10.4 hours L-extreme, 2 hours RGB  with my EOS1200DA cooled

IC 1396 in false color with RGB stars

[Pitch Black Skies]

18 hours ago, Bibabutzemann said:

IC 1396

Stunning image

[Jim Smith]

I think I'm beginning to get autoguiding to work.

Last night I got off to a bad start trying to calibrate PHD2. I knew that calibrating at around zero declination was good. I had also read somewhere that pointing due south was beneficial so I pointed my mount to about zero declination and 180 degrees azimuth. After a lot of frustration with failed calibration I noticed that the scope was pointing very close to the Moon. I moved it about 40 degrees west of the moon and the calibration worked just fine. I don't know if that was the reason for the failed calibration attempts because PHD2 did find suitable stars...but who knows?

Although, at the start of the evening, I did do a very satisfactory focussing session with my Bahtinov mask on Arcturus, and I locked the draw tube, all of my subs were similarly out of focus. Something must have happened during my one hour long failed calibration session. Metal OTA cooling?

Anyway, video clip of my subs below shows pretty good guiding for an hour. Field of view is one degree across. 120x30s exposures - 25fps.

 

 

Edited May 12, 2022 by Jim Smith
Addenda

[Rob F]

My last imaging session in April before packing and moving I spent collecting 10.5 hrs of data on M51 using my new camera, the PlayerOne Neptune C 178c.

10.5 hrs of 1 min subs captured over three days.

130pds/eq5 synscan 

[starwatcher_ch]

On 01/05/2022 at 14:16, Pitch Black Skies said:

Folks,

Lets see your 130P-DS in action and how you've modified it.

Always interested to see how others use and modify theirs.

 

Hi

This is a lovely thread about the 130PDS! I own the 130PDS since 6 weeks and luckily the weather managed that I have been able to use it 6 times since then 🙂

I started with AP 7 years ago with the Star Adventurer and Canon lenses up to 400mm. Since refractor prices are rising and rising I decided to upgrade my setup with the small Newton, even if I don't really like diffraction spikes. But so far the spikes don't bother me... until I'll shoot the Pleiades 😉

Setup:

• Sky-Watcher Explorer 130PDS
• iOptron GEM28
• Lacerta MGEN II guider / 50mm guide scope
• Canon EOS 70D (modified)
• Baader MPCC Mark III

Upgrades:

• Primary mirror ring
• 2" adapter with compression ring
• "swimming hat"

Still searching for the optimal distance sensor-mpcc... but all-in-all I really felt in love with this little scope!

CS

Karol

(The images are captured from my balcony in Derendingen, Switzerland, Bortle 5)

[Pitch Black Skies]

@starwatcher_ch CS Karol, glad to see you've joined. But most importantly, that you've gotten to the end of the thread 😁

[starwatcher_ch]

@Pitch Black Skies The past 3 days were intense 😉 But I read the whole thread! I see everybody struggles with more or less the same issues, but about one thing I didn't find enough information...

On my M13 and M57 images there are some reflections: faint on M13 (top mid right - vertical direction) but bright on M57 (bottom right - horizontal direction). 

What causes these reflections? Are they caused by bright stars outside of the FOV? I double checked the field of view in Stellarium and for M57 it's obviously caused by the star Sulafat. But is it possible that the 3 faint stars (almost in a row) outside of the FOV are responsible for the faint reflections (top mid right) in my image?

What would help to prevent such reflections? Flocking the scope/spider?

[Pitch Black Skies]

1 hour ago, starwatcher_ch said:

What causes these reflections?

I'm not sure, I haven't had this problem before with mine. I don't have my spider or OTA flocked either FWIW.

At a guess, they look like reflections of diffraction spikes. Could they be linked to your CC?

I noticed a vertical line through the horizontal line in the M57 image too.

[Bibabutzemann]

4 hours ago, starwatcher_ch said:

 

Hi

This is a lovely thread about the 130PDS! I own the 130PDS since 6 weeks and luckily the weather managed that I have been able to use it 6 times since then 🙂

I started with AP 7 years ago with the Star Adventurer and Canon lenses up to 400mm. Since refractor prices are rising and rising I decided to upgrade my setup with the small Newton, even if I don't really like diffraction spikes. But so far the spikes don't bother me... until I'll shoot the Pleiades 😉

Setup:

• Sky-Watcher Explorer 130PDS
• iOptron GEM28
• Lacerta MGEN II guider / 50mm guide scope
• Canon EOS 70D (modified)
• Baader MPCC Mark III

Upgrades:

• Primary mirror ring
• 2" adapter with compression ring
• "swimming hat"

Still searching for the optimal distance sensor-mpcc... but all-in-all I really felt in love with this little scope!

CS

Karol

(The images are captured from my balcony in Derendingen, Switzerland, Bortle 5)

Hi Karol, nice setup!

2 years ago when i decided which scope to get, i also considered the 400mm canon and so ive also read your Blog  back then😃 Great to see you hear now.

I think the reflections could also come from stray light. Are you using a dew shield? 

[starwatcher_ch]

1 hour ago, Pitch Black Skies said:

At a guess, they look like reflections of diffraction spikes. Could they be linked to your CC?

I noticed a vertical line through the horizontal line in the M57 image too.

You're right! Actually there are a lot more lines which I didn't notice... thanks!

I use the Baader MPCC, I don't know if it comes from it... the three previous images taken with the 130PDS didn't have these lines.

A few sessions ago, my 70D almost slipped out of the focuser, so I've been tightening the compression ring quite a bit since then... maybe to strong? Would that produce such an effect? 

 

34 minutes ago, Bibabutzemann said:

2 years ago when i decided which scope to get, i also considered the 400mm canon and so ive also read your Blog  back then😃 Great to see you hear now.

I think the reflections could also come from stray light. Are you using a dew shield? 

I really had fun with the 400mm Canon, but now with the 130PDS at 650mm I feel like a kid in a toy store again 😉 Focusing with 10:1 speed is a dream compared to a photo lens... and finally GoTo on the GEM28... it make things easier 😎

I have a dew shield but have never used it. Maybe I'll give it a try next session. Bahtinov mask and flat fields are the reasons I never used it. But maybe removing the dew shield for focusing and flats isn't as problematic as I think...

 

Clear skies 🔭

[braybarr]

Can anyone tell me the size of the mirror stalk for secondary mirror? 

[Space Oddities]

11 hours ago, starwatcher_ch said:

 

Hi

This is a lovely thread about the 130PDS! I own the 130PDS since 6 weeks and luckily the weather managed that I have been able to use it 6 times since then 🙂

I started with AP 7 years ago with the Star Adventurer and Canon lenses up to 400mm. Since refractor prices are rising and rising I decided to upgrade my setup with the small Newton, even if I don't really like diffraction spikes. But so far the spikes don't bother me... until I'll shoot the Pleiades 😉

Setup:

• Sky-Watcher Explorer 130PDS
• iOptron GEM28
• Lacerta MGEN II guider / 50mm guide scope
• Canon EOS 70D (modified)
• Baader MPCC Mark III

Upgrades:

• Primary mirror ring
• 2" adapter with compression ring
• "swimming hat"

Still searching for the optimal distance sensor-mpcc... but all-in-all I really felt in love with this little scope!

CS

Karol

(The images are captured from my balcony in Derendingen, Switzerland, Bortle 5)

Welcome Karol!  I've been following your blog since I started AP a few years back, I find it very interesting. And your images are excellent! 

[Pitch Black Skies]

12 hours ago, starwatcher_ch said:

Would that produce such an effect? 

Unless you can see it tilting the imaging train I wouldn't have thought so. I keep mine fairly tight too.

How much of your focuser tube is protruding into the OTA?

This is mine at the focus position.

I shortened it with a hacksaw. I will spray the bare metal surface black in time. Just be mindful that if you decide to do this, when you rack out the focuser, its tube will no longer stop but will slip off the rollers. You might be able to just spray yours or flock it as I can see your star shapes are not affected by the drawtube protruding into the OTA.

This is a good video by Glenn Astrobloke for reducing reflections.

Edited May 16, 2022 by Pitch Black Skies

[Pitch Black Skies]

12 hours ago, starwatcher_ch said:

But maybe removing the dew shield for focusing and flats isn't as problematic as I think...

Hi, I leave my dew shield in place for focusing and flats. I just pop the Bahtinov mask on top of it.

 

Edited May 16, 2022 by Pitch Black Skies

[starwatcher_ch]

14 hours ago, Space Oddities said:

Welcome Karol!  I've been following your blog since I started AP a few years back, I find it very interesting. And your images are excellent! 

Thank You, Pierre!!!

 

12 hours ago, Pitch Black Skies said:

How much of your focuser tube is protruding into the OTA?

Much more than yours! Unfortunately I can not check it at home because I'm on a business trip until tomorrow... but I'll measure it once I'm back home!

Do you use a TSGPU cc (Update: I just saw that you use a SW Aplanatic cc)? I read that it extends the focus around 10mm. I guess if I would use the TSGPU it would look like on your images...

Honestly I want to avoid shortening the tube as much as possible since it's irreversible. Only if nothing else will help...

BTW: Thanks for the video link!

 

12 hours ago, Pitch Black Skies said:

Hi, I leave my dew shield in place for focusing and flats. I just pop the Bahtinov mask on top of it.

Will give it a try next session 🙂

Edited May 16, 2022 by starwatcher_ch

[Pitch Black Skies]

43 minutes ago, starwatcher_ch said:

Much more than yours!

I have a feeling it might be causing reflections. 

Yes get the GPU if you can. It has the added benefit of being able to screw onto the focuser unlike the SW version. That alone will help with tilt problems.

I have to admit, I do regret cutting mine.

You live and learn 😁

[starwatcher_ch]

36 minutes ago, Pitch Black Skies said:

I have a feeling it might be causing reflections. 

Yes get the GPU if you can. It has the added benefit of being able to screw onto the focuser unlike the SW version. That alone will help with tilt problems.

The only reason I don't own the TSGPU already is because of it's price. It's more expensive than the 130PDS scope itself 😉

It feels somehow "unnatural" to spend more money on a cc than on a telescope... the 130PDS/MPCC combination seems perfect in this regard. But I'd rather buy the TSGPU than cut the focus tube 😉

I'm still trying to figure out the optimal MPCC-DSLR sensor distance. But if I am not satisfied after trying all possible distances with 2 sets of spacers (2 x 0.3mm, 2 x 0.5mm and 2 x 1mm) and the reflections occur constantly, I'll order the TSGPU.

36 minutes ago, Pitch Black Skies said:

I have to admit, I do regret cutting mine.

You live and learn 😁

I'm a little surprised to hear that. Thank you for your frank words! Yes, we live and learn...

But no problem at all, you could buy a new 130PDS... it's sooo inexpensive! 😉 (I'm joking!)

 

Edited May 16, 2022 by starwatcher_ch

[Pitch Black Skies]

12 minutes ago, starwatcher_ch said:

The only reason I don't own the TSGPU already is because of it's price.

I agree, very pricey indeed. But then look at the price of cameras, mounts, etc. In for a penny, in for a pound 🙂

In regards to cc spacing, I think @alacant would be your best bet there.

The problem with cutting the tube is number one the risk of the imaging train falling out. But it can also be problematic if switching to visual or if you ever decide to sell on.

[Whistlin Bob]

I still follow this thread even though my 130pds (which pulled me into this whole ap rabbit hole) hasn't seen a lot of action for a while. I find myself either going wide with 72ed/camera lenses or going tighter with 200p on galaxies. However I've had it out twice over the last few months and both times it has been a pleasure to use- issue free and barely even needing collimation.

It came out twice in March to catch a composite of the moon with my DSLR- see below with a bit of mineral magic added: 

It also had a trip out in April where I was trying to capture M87. This was quite frustrating as I was attempting to get a super cheap svbony camera to guide for me. Ultimately, it wouldn't work, so the shot below is unguided and uses an hour of 20s subs taken with an Altair 183c:

There are some obvious problems with the stars caused by the lack of guiding, but if you zoom in on the galaxy you can see the jet produced by the black hole, which I thought was pretty good for a little newt:

Every time I use it, I do find myself admiring what a ridiculously good scope it is for the money.

To chip in on the debate about shortening your draw tube, I use the SW 0.9x coma corrector. It required me to take about 10mm off my draw tube to get decent stars. I think that's pretty pants design by Skywatcher, but I have to admit that the cost relative to other solutions is very low and it has given me an f4.5 astrograph at a very decent price (they were £169 back when I bought mine). 

[edarter]

On the topic of the draw tube protruding I'm going down a path that will hopefully allow me to get to a point where I've cured it without having to chop the end off and still use the baader mpc. I'm half way there currently but this is what I've done so far:

Purchased one of these:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/ts_m48_eos_s.html

At the time the Flo website said it didn't latch in to the camera like a normal bayonette fitting but I can confirm it does and so is 100% secure. With it only being 1mm optical path you gain 10mm over the standard Eos adaptor. However, you also need a 10mm one of these:

https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/rvo-m48-extension-tubes-various-lengths-available.html

This keeps the baader spaced at the critical 57-58mm, but inside the draw tube now rather than via the older 11mm Eos adaptor.

It also has the added benefit of pushing the recessed part of the baader mpc down the drawtube, allowing the drawtube fixing (in my case an aftermarket compression ring) to clamp to the 10mm extension tube instead and so prevents the issues associated with the baader tilting when clamped.

This has halved my drawtube projection in to the OTA and works perfectly. The remaining 10mm I need to lose will be done by fitting longer main mirror screws and springs. Haven't done that as yet as I don't know what items to source! It's cost me £40 so far which for me is money well spent to not have to chop the drawtube and continue to use the baader.

Hth

Ed

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ljastro]

First time uploading image. Alot of inspiration from all users posts and images.

Equipment:

130pds

HEQ5 Rowan

Zwo eaf

Zwo mini f4 30mm guiding

Optolong l-enhance 

MPCC mk3

Canon Eos 60d self modded

APT ; PHD2 ; PS

Self taught, Still alot to learn, guiding,  focus, tilt etc etc. We all know the learning curve.

So just adding my 1st attempt of the Heart Nebula. 1.5 hours

 

Edited May 18, 2022 by Ljastro

[starwatcher_ch]

1 hour ago, Ljastro said:

So just adding my 1st attempt of the Heart Nebula. 1.5 hours

Wonderful Heart Nebula! Great processing!