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Imaging with the 130pds


Russe

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1 hour ago, CJ1989 said:

Hi everyone!

I am amazed by these photos! Seems like a worthwhile hobby. Patience does lead to beautiful things. I am considering buying a Skywatcher Telescope N 130/650 Explorer 130PDS OTA. But I was wondering, aside from the mount , what the difference is with the Sky-Watcher Explorer-130P SynScan AZ GOTO 130mm Reflector? I have been reading a great review on that one as well.

Did you all tweak a bit to put your scope up to the task of deep sky photograpghy? 

Just to be clear, I am a beginner. I am aware that there is no perfect scope but with this one it seems like the option is there if I would want to try out AP. I have been doing research and reading a book for some time now.

Here is the link to the AZ GoTo telescope I was referring to:

https://telescopeguides.com/skywatcher-explorer-130p-synscan-az-goto-review/

Again, very beautiful work to be seen here! And thank you in advance for your help.

I recommend to avoid that mount for DSO, the scope is fine, so you should either find another combo where you see a real better EQ mount, or buy the scope separately and later buy a capable mount for DSO.

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1 hour ago, CJ1989 said:

I am considering buying a Skywatcher Telescope N 130/650 Explorer 130PDS OTA. But I was wondering, aside from the mount , what the difference is with the Sky-Watcher Explorer-130P SynScan AZ GOTO 130mm Reflector? I have been reading a great review on that one as well.

The 130PDS  has a dual speed focuser and also the ota is slightly shorter which allows a camera to reach focus, something that the 130P cannot do. The secondary mirror is also larger due to the shorter distance between the primary and secondary mirrors.

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I've been a long time watcher of this thread so thought I'd add a few images I've taken with the 130PDS. I realize these aren't the pinnacle of what the scope can do, as I'm often battling clouds, the moon, work in the morning or my lack of processing ability, but I've been very happy with the scope for the 9 months that I've owned it. 

These are all taken with a QHY163M and assorted filters. I'll post my previous DSLR photo's next.

Soul nebula 


soul_nebula_narrowband.thumb.png.905bb317acf4d40c95adcc0a7e897d37.png

Bodes + Cigar

bode_cigar_rotated_crop.thumb.jpg.3ca27ee8893df856b43d1334d40f94e7.jpg

Rosette 

 

rosette_l_ha_sho_v1_relevel.thumb.png.16174c77561916102e7342244bc404f1.png

Pacman

 

pacman_v2_l_ha_sho.thumb.PNG.2a90bb25572dd9c92027a87b813d316c.PNG

 

 

 

almost_full_moon_mono.thumb.png.3750445657e1c3d9ef573b98c3af9af1.png

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 13/03/2021 at 13:50, Cornelius Varley said:

The 130PDS  has a dual speed focuser and also the ota is slightly shorter which allows a camera to reach focus, something that the 130P cannot do. The secondary mirror is also larger due to the shorter distance between the primary and secondary mirrors.

I wonder what it means when everyone are mentioning the oversized secondaries of the pds line. If you take the 250pds for example, the secondary is said to be oversized, but at 58mm it's the exact same size as the regular 250p dobsonian's secondary

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46 minutes ago, guydive said:

58mm

Hi

I think the term oversized is misleading. It's the optimum size to capture all the light reflected by the primary. Too small and you lose light. Too large and you block light. 

250p: 58mm

250pds; 63mm

With a 58mm on a pds, check you're not losing light. Crude method: point toward the sun holding a sheet of paper at the open end of the tube.

Cheers

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27 minutes ago, alacant said:

Hi

I think the term oversized is misleading. It's the optimum size to capture all the light reflected by the primary. Too small and you lose light. Too large and you block light. 

250p: 58mm

250pds; 63mm

With a 58mm on a pds, check you're not losing light. Crude method: point toward the sun holding a sheet of paper at the open end of the tube.

Cheers

Are you sure it's 63mm? I asked this on a previous thread and that's what I got

 

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52 minutes ago, guydive said:

you sure

That article to which you link refers to the 200pds. Apart from hands on, you can use a search engine to verify:

https://www.google.com/search?q=250pds+secondary+size&oq=250pds+secondary+size

https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p3888_Skywatcher-Explorer-250PDS---10--f-4-7-Newton---2--1-10-Crayford.html

 

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36 minutes ago, alacant said:

The guy who measured the secondary has the 250 (it's not the same user). But I saw the other links, maybe it's changed (his pds few years old). 

one question - I can see the benefits of a bigger secondary for imaging. Is it better for visual use as well?

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2 hours ago, guydive said:

better for visual

In our opinion, the 250p -we've an old blue tube version- is better for both ap and looking through, and yes, it focuses with a DSLR. 

(Not relevant here though so perhaps time to use your other thread?)

Cheers

Edited by alacant
Translation from es.
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The Fish Head Nebula. My first proper image with the new camera after my 60Da died. I had a few teething problems due a bug in APT with Flats but got that resolved with the help of some very clever folk from around these parts. I think I'm going to like this camera for a while until I finally decide to go Mono.
I'm going to add more to this (Clouds came tonight!) and I think I'll use this as the basis of a mosaic and go for the heart. Try something different.


20x300s Light Frames (1hr 40) Cooled -10° Binned 1x1
40 Dark Frames
40 Flats
40 Dark Flats

Sky Watcher 130PDS
HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod
ZWO ASI294MC Pro
Pegasus Powerbox Advance
TS-Optics GPU Superflat Coma Corrector
Optolong L-Enhance
Orion 50mm Guide Scope & Orion Star Shoot Auto Guider
Astro Photography Tools & PHD2
Deep Sky Stacker & Photoshop

FH2.thumb.jpg.26a18ee90f5fb868a74839d7acf7bd77.jpg

Edited by Jamgood
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Further trialing of the new camera from last night. 3hrs on M101. (The Pinwheel Galaxy) Next time it's clear I'm going to try add some 600s shots to this and see what the result bring. Happy with this so far though. 


36x300s Light Frames (3hrs) Cooled -10°
40 Dark Frames
40 Flats
40 Dark Flats


Sky Watcher 130PDS
HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod
ZWO ASI294MC Pro
Pegasus Powerbox Advance
TS-Optics GPU Superflat Coma Corrector
SVBony UV/IR Cut Filter
Orion 50mm Guide Scope & Orion Star Shoot Auto Guider
Astro Photography Tools & PHD2
Deep Sky Stacker & Photoshop

M101-1.jpg

Edited by Jamgood
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16 hours ago, Jamgood said:

Further trialing of the new camera from last night. 3hrs on M101. (The Pinwheel Galaxy) Next time it's clear I'm going to try add some 600s shots to this and see what the result bring. Happy with this so far though. 


36x300s Light Frames (3hrs) Cooled -10°
40 Dark Frames
40 Flats
40 Flat Darks


Sky Watcher 130PDS
HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod
ZWO ASI294MC Pro
Pegasus Powerbox Advance
TS-Optics GPU Superflat Coma Corrector
SVBony UV/IR Cut Filter
Orion 50mm Guide Scope & Orion Star Shoot Auto Guider
Astro Photography Tools & PHD2
Deep Sky Stacker & Photoshop

M101-1.jpg

Beautiful shot! 

Still waiting to get my 130pds (getting a bit impatient lol) 

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Hi 130-PDS owners. I'm a long-time lurker here and I've posted a few images but my scope has been sitting unused for a while now and I am hoping for some advice from you experts!

I've got the 130-PDS mostly stock, although I moved the primary a little up the tube to avoid the focus tube protrusion issue that many see here when imaging. I use it on an NEQ6 mount (no mods) and have an Startravel 80 guide scope with ZWO ASI120MC guide camera and usually do OK for guiding with this setup. I've almost exclusively used the setup with an old Canon EOS 550D/T2i (also unmodified) and I use the skywatcher 0.9x CC with no additional tweaking of distances as I think it's about right, at least within +/- 1 mm or so. I have had persistent issues for years, however, with the camera disconnecting from my laptop during imaging and this is what has led to my lack of use. It is infuriating to spend a few hours getting it all set up and ready to image and then having the camera disconnect mid-exposure repeatedly, wasting almost all the imaging time I have. I've thrown a couple of my best images using this setup at the bottom of this post so you can see approximately where my ability level lies. Recently learning how to plate solve in Astrophotography Tools was a game-changer for my framing and setup, but alas I have still yet to obtain any good images recently because of the camera problems. Also, for what it's worth, I do all my processing currently with DSS and Photoshop (with some plugins like gradientXterminator and the Astronomy Tools actions set).

With the pandemic meaning little money has been spent going out and about I have got a bit of spare cash and I'm considering a serious upgrade to my kit and I'm looking at going narrowband with the ZWO AIS1600MM. I have read so many good and bad things about this combination. I feel like the better camera, while involving a significant upstep in complexity and processing learning, would open up the opportunity for some improved imaging. I am, however, a little cautious about my ability to focus without an auto focuser as well as some comments about focuser droop/flex with this camera and filter wheel hanging off it.

 

Does anyone have any strong feelings for or against this setup? I'm also very interested in whether or not people suggest there's any strong vignetting with 1.25" filters and whether I should be looking at 31 mm or 36 mm filter sets if I do go down this route? I am interested in just going all in on a "kit" from FirstLightOptics like the one shown here: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi1600mm-pro-usb-3-mono-camera-efw8-125-lrgb-filters-125-ha-sii-oiii-filters-bundle.html but for similar prices you can get sets that have all different filter sizes.

Also, should I be able to focus OK with the 1600MM without moving the primary back down the tube?

 

Thoughts and comments gratefully received!

 

Flickr album for example images: https://www.flickr.com/photos/hcavaye/albums/72157673412838217

 

Edit to add: My apologies - I realised that I had actually already posted a separate thread for this question in the middle of last year and then totally forgotten about it. I had some great responses there, from some of you in here too, so thank you! I think my "buy now" finger is getting itchy...

Edited by sagramore
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Finally feel worthy enough posting my first proper nebula image :) shot from a Bortle 8.

NGC7000 North America Nebula.

Unmodified Canon 6D,
Optolong CLS filter,
33 x 180s lights,
20 x darks, flats and bias,
SW 130PDS 
EQ5 Pro 
T7C guide cam
SVBony SV165 guide scope

DSS, Gimp and PS (I had a little assistance with the processing from AstroN3RD on the Astrobiscuit discord)

AN_NGC7000.thumb.png.1e074d09847d78142fabfb83f6a216d1.png

Edited by geeks
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On 06/04/2021 at 16:26, sagramore said:

Hi 130-PDS owners. I'm a long-time lurker here and I've posted a few images but my scope has been sitting unused for a while now and I am hoping for some advice from you experts!

I've got the 130-PDS mostly stock, although I moved the primary a little up the tube to avoid the focus tube protrusion issue that many see here when imaging. I use it on an NEQ6 mount (no mods) and have an Startravel 80 guide scope with ZWO ASI120MC guide camera and usually do OK for guiding with this setup. I've almost exclusively used the setup with an old Canon EOS 550D/T2i (also unmodified) and I use the skywatcher 0.9x CC with no additional tweaking of distances as I think it's about right, at least within +/- 1 mm or so. I have had persistent issues for years, however, with the camera disconnecting from my laptop during imaging and this is what has led to my lack of use. It is infuriating to spend a few hours getting it all set up and ready to image and then having the camera disconnect mid-exposure repeatedly, wasting almost all the imaging time I have. I've thrown a couple of my best images using this setup at the bottom of this post so you can see approximately where my ability level lies. Recently learning how to plate solve in Astrophotography Tools was a game-changer for my framing and setup, but alas I have still yet to obtain any good images recently because of the camera problems. Also, for what it's worth, I do all my processing currently with DSS and Photoshop (with some plugins like gradientXterminator and the Astronomy Tools actions set).

With the pandemic meaning little money has been spent going out and about I have got a bit of spare cash and I'm considering a serious upgrade to my kit and I'm looking at going narrowband with the ZWO AIS1600MM. I have read so many good and bad things about this combination. I feel like the better camera, while involving a significant upstep in complexity and processing learning, would open up the opportunity for some improved imaging. I am, however, a little cautious about my ability to focus without an auto focuser as well as some comments about focuser droop/flex with this camera and filter wheel hanging off it.

 

Does anyone have any strong feelings for or against this setup? I'm also very interested in whether or not people suggest there's any strong vignetting with 1.25" filters and whether I should be looking at 31 mm or 36 mm filter sets if I do go down this route? I am interested in just going all in on a "kit" from FirstLightOptics like the one shown here: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi1600mm-pro-usb-3-mono-camera-efw8-125-lrgb-filters-125-ha-sii-oiii-filters-bundle.html but for similar prices you can get sets that have all different filter sizes.

Also, should I be able to focus OK with the 1600MM without moving the primary back down the tube?

 

Thoughts and comments gratefully received!

 

Flickr album for example images: https://www.flickr.com/photos/hcavaye/albums/72157673412838217

 

Edit to add: My apologies - I realised that I had actually already posted a separate thread for this question in the middle of last year and then totally forgotten about it. I had some great responses there, from some of you in here too, so thank you! I think my "buy now" finger is getting itchy...

Not sure if you still need convincing, but I use a very similar setup to the one you propose, and also used a DSLR for quite a while. So my thoughts:

- it's a big step up in terms of image quality, and the flexibility of narrowband

- focus was fine for me with a different CC, still in the middle of the range of travel

- As far as I can tell, 1.25" filters/vignetting depends on the exact camera/FW setup. I don't imagine FLO would sell a kit that would vignette on what is a very popular scope. My camera is the QHY equivalent and needs 31mm filters, but I don't think they optimised the spacing quite as well. 

- It's a pretty common mod to add a third screw to the focuser tube to help hold a heavier camera, but I've used a 2-screw version on a 250PDS with my camera + FW and I don't feel like it was the thing that held my images back! 

- I'd recommend an autofocuser - it allows much finer control over focus and means you can do everything from the warmth of your house! I used a cheap skywatcher DC focusser + hitec astro controller for a while. It was a definite step up, but a stepper motor solution was a big step up from that. But I would't suggest you need one before you can upgrade your camera. I've also focussed the FW + camera manually on another OTA.

- General consensus is that there are some newer, better choices than the ASI1600MM, although these tend to come with an additional cost, so it's perhaps less clear cut. There are lots of people selling their 1600MM at the moment, presumably to upgrade, so if you're interested in 2nd hand, there may be a decent saving. Either way, I'd recommend posting in the camera forum before you buy - I've made a conscious choice not to look at what's on offer until I can afford an upgrade ;)

 

 

Edited by rnobleeddy
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I only got in to this hobby about 9 months ago so this is my first run through galaxy season. They do tend to seem a little small for the 130PDS but I like that it's so easy to get setup compared to my larger Newtonian.  

About 3.5 hours on M51 in total split 40% L and 20% each RGB. As always, more work to do, but I really like M51's unusual shape.

 

m51_130pds_lrgb.png

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  • 2 weeks later...

Loving this little light bucket more and more! I really do need to learn how to process though. I also desperately need a coma corrector.

NGC6888 Crescent Nebula.

Unmodified Canon 6D,
Optolong CLS filter,
121 x 180s lights @1600 ISO
20 x darks, flats and bias,
SW 130PDS 
EQ5 Pro 
T7C guide cam
SVBony SV165 guide scope

DSS x2 drizzle, Gimp and PS (I had a lot of assistance with the processing a big thanks to jenastro from the Astrbiscuit discord)

Also a quick shout of to @Spaced Outwho sold me his PDS 

.NGC6888_121x180_2xDrizzle_jenastro.thumb.jpg.5f43c40ab6f769ac6158b7542d73d179.jpg

 

Edited by geeks
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  • 2 weeks later...

As we come to the end of another astro season, and the light nights mean no astro darkness from end of May until end of July (in the UK at least), I thought I'd post some of my shots taken over the past year since I got a second-hand NEQ6 and sold my 130P AZ. It was a huge step-up and I had to improve my technique because the improved accuracy of the mount really showed up all the things I was doing wrong. Anyway, now I've learned about guiding, calibrating, dithering, polar alignment and whatever else, I love my little 130PDS. The only thing I wish I could change is those iddy-biddy little bitemarks the focuser tube takes out of stars. All photos taken with an EOS1000D with IR filter removed, some are guided, others not, captured with APT, stacked in DSS, post-processed in Affinity and Topaz AI Denoise. They're all pretty much 'the usual suspects', they won't win awards, but I've really enjoyed taking them (as well as being very, very frustrated a lot of the time!). I hope it's OK to share so many in one post...

1487117964_affAutosave001nonr-DeNoiseAI-low-light.jpg.890a0555b78f6a8e0af351d718d0eec7.jpg

all(1).thumb.jpg.2c904c1a678ae49f6af8362bb6163757.jpg

1505598180_Autosavenonr(2021-04-0717-53-34)-DeNoiseAI-low-light.thumb.jpg.1425b3d5b8433a226c0bef77d7928850.jpg

Autosave.thumb.jpg.2bda40fe40e1cf02d438d7f0977c6737.jpg

Autosave001.thumb.jpg.396718a35bed6327e8ff25a236f085ca.jpg

Autosave5.thumb.jpg.bbeaedfb405e0efcdf6019ed2357792f.jpg

Autosave-DeNoiseAI-clear.thumb.jpg.4e2371f5e998d04b5d369c3aeaeb19cf.jpg

142299750_bluebig.thumb.jpg.5ecd5181b7c2ca587ef3d707d1804c7f.jpg

2113819959_centre-DeNoiseAI-denoiseaffinity.thumb.jpg.9b6a8a74ec8177bc881caffeb466c34e.jpg

1209067242_EasternVeilNebula.thumb.jpg.e43ad37007a4452aac126a47ea71ebb6.jpg

558165227_IC405FlamingStarNebula.thumb.jpg.aa797bf28582f412fd9c1f93205f9dc5.jpg

1771437334_kappanonr-DeNoiseAI-denoisewithfilmdev.jpg.c842958a4206a3cdc16df47019280763.jpg

1506686366_leotriplet.thumb.jpg.6bfedb61e500fdee3a6792de90e1d45d.jpg

144054564_M31mosaic.thumb.jpg.93d21555f0dac51eab7cb5c01262317c.jpg

1423608901_M33TriangulumGalaxy.thumb.jpg.04fa144d48d6b2cc657f6b33b5c27020.jpg

923172669_NGC7000Gulf2.thumb.jpg.68811aca1b8c0a292b812c22de7eeea7.jpg

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