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Imaging with the 130pds


Russe

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Hi everyone

Not many blue nebulae here, or rather there probably are but they're too distant to see!

There were only 3 hours left before sunrise after the xmas tree. The little 130 really is amazing. Galaxies even...

**EDIT: almost forgot a callout for Ivo's new SuperStructure module in the latest StarTools; did a great job retaining the faint fuzzies in the bg:)

eos700d @ ISO800 

1113376164_1-101(1)_01_01.thumb.jpg.72cf65a9cd3be1829bd21ffd7be88abf.jpg

Edited by alacant
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My Sincere apologies for the target chosen...
But I am really happy :) I was never able to hunt this one down since I started 3 years ago :) 
Cannot hold myself not to share.
Not the best pic for sure, - but still happy :)

(only 11.5mins per channel + Moon) * Borlte9= noisy
hope to catch it one day without the Moon and for longer than 30min.

 

Orion Nebula [M42]

 

P.S.

My initial image, just once I started... (my astrohookup image)

Orion Nebula

 

 

Edited by RolandKol
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45 minutes ago, Spaced Out said:

The 130PDS cooling down under the moon this evening in preparation for some NB imaging.

Jealous! 9" of snow out my back door and it's still cloudy. I'll play guitar instead. Have fun! 👍

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Rosette Nebula. A work in progress. I will be adding more to this when the Moon isn't washing everything out and I can get some 10 minutes exposures. Happy with this one so far though.
 
48 Lights - 300s @ ISO800 (4hrs)
20 x Darks - 30 x Bias - 30 x Flats
Skywatcher 130PDS - HEQ5 Pro (Rowan Belt Mod) - Canon EOS60Da - Astronomik CLS Filter - Baader MPCCIII
Orion 50mm Guide Scope + Orion Star Shoot Auto Guider
 
RRosey.thumb.jpg.32e89d93be84c97c04b2e6bbee068d99.jpg
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Is anyone using a QSI 683wsg camera with a Skywatcher coma corrector - I have one on the way (camera) and I forsee back-focus issues,  The Skywatcher CC has M48 threads, if I use the M48->T2 M42 adapter to screw on the end of the CC to then screw into the camera I effectively add 7.3mm to the total distance because I cannot screw the adapter down to be flush with the flange.

So the question is - is the 55mm measured from the flange, or the very back of the threads on the CC, there appears to be no optical drawing I can find for the CC?

The camera with T2 adapter has a backfocus distance of 1.98", so i'll be out at 57.6mm before including filters etc...  I suspect the solution is a custom M48 adapter plate close to the correct thickness to screw the CC straight into, that or turn 3mm+ off the end of the CC in the lathe 🥶

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Here is my first ever image created using data from multiple nights. I imaged over 3 nights to get as much as I could on this target but some high thin cloud saw me ditching a lot of subs in the end. Found it a bit complicated stacking 3 different filters from different nights with accompanying calibration frames in DSS. In the end I just did one night at a time then stacked the resulting images together for each filter.

Tadpole Nebula IC410

71x 300s Ha

47x 300s Oiii

50x 300s Sii

+ 50x Darks, 20x Flats and 20x Dark Flats for each filter.

 

tadpole-nebula.thumb.jpg.53a70ffa99f040c55c8e345497e0244e.jpg

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On 02/02/2021 at 17:22, John78 said:

Is anyone using a QSI 683wsg camera with a Skywatcher coma corrector - I have one on the way (camera) and I forsee back-focus issues,  The Skywatcher CC has M48 threads, if I use the M48->T2 M42 adapter to screw on the end of the CC to then screw into the camera I effectively add 7.3mm to the total distance because I cannot screw the adapter down to be flush with the flange.

So the question is - is the 55mm measured from the flange, or the very back of the threads on the CC, there appears to be no optical drawing I can find for the CC?

The camera with T2 adapter has a backfocus distance of 1.98", so i'll be out at 57.6mm before including filters etc...  I suspect the solution is a custom M48 adapter plate close to the correct thickness to screw the CC straight into, that or turn 3mm+ off the end of the CC in the lathe 🥶

The S/W coma corrector is designed to give the correct performance when the flange (i.e. the flat surface at the bottom of the 48mm is exactly 55mm from the sensor.  This works well with custom M48 to Nikon/Canon fit adaptors.

What you probably need is to discard the T-mount nosepiece which is too long to use and instead use suitable adaptors between the CC and the body of the camera.

QSI can probably tell you what to use.

This is how I use mine with ZWO kit: M48 - M42 adaptor, followed by various combinations of various M42 spacing rings and my filter wheel to make up a about 50mm, leaving about 6mm for the camera backfocus. The extra length allows for shortening of the light path by 1mm due to refraction in the filter wheel.

 

 

 

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On 09/02/2021 at 16:55, Stub Mandrel said:

The S/W coma corrector is designed to give the correct performance when the flange (i.e. the flat surface at the bottom of the 48mm is exactly 55mm from the sensor.  This works well with custom M48 to Nikon/Canon fit adaptors.

What you probably need is to discard the T-mount nosepiece which is too long to use and instead use suitable adaptors between the CC and the body of the camera.

QSI can probably tell you what to use.

This is how I use mine with ZWO kit: M48 - M42 adaptor, followed by various combinations of various M42 spacing rings and my filter wheel to make up a about 50mm, leaving about 6mm for the camera backfocus. The extra length allows for shortening of the light path by 1mm due to refraction in the filter wheel.

 

 

 

Indeed - what I need is a M48 faceplate for the camera - which QSI don't appear to make, the SX one looks like it would be able to fit if you make a small adapter plate - or I could machine a whole new one - although cutting the thread might be a challenge and then I'd need to find someone to anodise it.

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Hi all, total newbie here, glad to join the family, will post (hopefully worthwhile) pics in a year or two. Currently my equipment is limited to the scope, an alt az mount, an xyz cellphone adapter, a 2x barlow, the stock 28mm 2" EP, 11mm and 24mm Plossels, a black flag to serve as a monk's hood, a cheshire collimator, Turn Left at Orion and mosquito repellant). Cheers! 

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Another Rosette :) 

Didn't have as long as I would of liked thanks to the clouds, (seems to be a recurring event nowadays!), needs more data to get rid of that noise. Only PNGs so not Hubble quality :) 
I tried out StarNet++ for the starless image; it seems to struggle with the diffraction spikes a bit, but I quite like the result.

Imaging - SW130PDS, Stock Canon EOS 100D. 40x 3mins @ISO400 (2hrs)
Guiding - SW 9x50 Finder, ASI224MC
Mount - HEQ5 Pro (Rowan Mod)
Other - SW 0.9x CC
Stacked in DSS and processed in Photoshop

OUTPUT_1PNG.thumb.png.04304396a925957c489eb5ec9310a958.png

OUTPUT_StarlessPNG.thumb.png.fb9da231b75e9d27708904490bc820a5.png

Edited by JoshHopk
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1 hour ago, JoshHopk said:

Another Rosette :) 

Didn't have as long as I would of liked thanks to the clouds, (seems to be a recurring event nowadays!), needs more data to get rid of that noise. Only PNGs so not Hubble quality :) 
I tried out StarNet++ for the starless image; it seems to struggle with the diffraction spikes a bit, but I quite like the result.

Imaging - SW130PDS, Stock Canon EOS 100D. 40x 3mins @ISO400 (2hrs)
Guiding - SW 9x50 Finder, ASI224MC
Mount - HEQ5 Pro (Rowan Mod)
Other - SW 0.9x CC
Stacked in DSS and processed in Photoshop

OUTPUT_1PNG.thumb.png.04304396a925957c489eb5ec9310a958.png

OUTPUT_StarlessPNG.thumb.png.fb9da231b75e9d27708904490bc820a5.png

beautiful image and colors.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think this has been asked before but I'm not about to look through all the pages. But what is the 130 PDS like out of the box, is there any modification you feel is mandatory or can you just put it on the mount and shoot? Disregarding regular collimation of course.

I'm quite tempted by it as my next scope, it would be a good fit when I'm going for a dedicated camera. But coming from a refractor which is very plug and play I'm a bit hesitant.

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2 hours ago, Shimonu said:

I think this has been asked before but I'm not about to look through all the pages. But what is the 130 PDS like out of the box, is there any modification you feel is mandatory or can you just put it on the mount and shoot? Disregarding regular collimation of course.

I'm quite tempted by it as my next scope, it would be a good fit when I'm going for a dedicated camera. But coming from a refractor which is very plug and play I'm a bit hesitant.

No modifications required, although some have taken to shortening the drawtube to improve star shapes.

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Hi everyone!

I am amazed by these photos! Seems like a worthwhile hobby. Patience does lead to beautiful things. I am considering buying a Skywatcher Telescope N 130/650 Explorer 130PDS OTA. But I was wondering, aside from the mount , what the difference is with the Sky-Watcher Explorer-130P SynScan AZ GOTO 130mm Reflector? I have been reading a great review on that one as well.

Did you all tweak a bit to put your scope up to the task of deep sky photograpghy? 

Just to be clear, I am a beginner. I am aware that there is no perfect scope but with this one it seems like the option is there if I would want to try out AP. I have been doing research and reading a book for some time now.

Here is the link to the AZ GoTo telescope I was referring to:

https://telescopeguides.com/skywatcher-explorer-130p-synscan-az-goto-review/

Again, very beautiful work to be seen here! And thank you in advance for your help.

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