Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

Russe

Imaging with the 130pds

Recommended Posts

14 hours ago, lnlarxg said:

I need to learn more on how to get rid of gradient.

Have a go with abe then run photometric colour calibrator. Just search for the co-ordinates of your image, put in the pixel size of you camera and focal length and make sure you tick force platesolve, then try running sncr. I would then use the histogram transfer add two previews one in the background and one over a galaxy and then run background neutralization and then colour calibration and finally colour saturation.

I think there are lots of different way to work within pi but for now this is my route.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Complete re process of M45 that I took in January 

Maybe the noise in the background is a little much still? But I'm sure this could be fixed next time I image this.

 

M45 v6.jpg

  • Like 13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From last night - think I have some Coma despite using a Baader CC. 109 x 60 sec's with a Canon 600D (astromodified) of NGC7635 - The Bubble Nebula + M52 (Cassiopeia Salt & Pepper Cluster) + NGC7538 (Northern Lagoon Nebula). Bortle 6 skies...

Roughly processed in Pixinsight.

Cheers
Ivor

Bubble_Nebula.jpg

Bubble_Nebula_detail.jpg

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Testing the new lightbox I built tonight, it seems to produce much better flats than a monitor - runs off usb power with variable brightness, which is great  :)

Just applied it to some M106 data I took a last week, which I didnt post here because the background was a bit blotchy. Flats from a different source seem to have cleared this up somewhat.

M106-improved_80.thumb.jpg.990eb212d5febfe18860b03f78f89e41.jpg

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI, the lightbox I used was this - 14 quid from amazon:

6174ZcRYlAL._AC_SY450_.jpg

I then created a protective cover and OTA attachment using the box it came in, and a bit of foam :) oh, plus 3 sheets of A4 to further dim and diffuse the light. The pic shown is with it on max brighness, I've only used the lowest setting so far on lum data. NB will probably require it to be kicked up a notch or two in brightness. Its amazing what you can do with a bit of glue and tape :D:D 

20200421_085840.thumb.jpg.ba1e7b836727bbbe1838ba005138d3b4.jpg

Probably needs a bit more tape around the edges, just to make it star party friendly.

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

Another M57.
I had some CC spacing problems and suffered from heavy coma.

This one was the test image after some corrections been done, - only R and G filters 30min each at 30sec (blue failed to autofocus after SGP upgrade... ). :)

I have stacked them as l was curious if l can get any colour from 2 channels only ;)

Hope to add some data some day.

 

 

M57

 

Edited by RolandKol
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

some more images of my come-back-to-astrophotography sessions :p on NGC 4565 it is no vignetting. just trying some new ways to present my images

all are taken on an EQM35PRO mount , and a Fujifilm xt-2 mirrorless camera.

i am considering an CC for my "little gem" : i am leaning to the Baader MPPC III . or would the Skywatcher itself be a good one? i will also look in the future for a CMOS..

any advice is welcome

NGC4565.jpg

light_BINNING_1_integration_DBE_NR_satur.jpg

M64metrand.jpg

LRGB1light_BINNING_1finalemetextraABE.jpg

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 21/04/2020 at 09:06, Uranium235 said:

FYI, the lightbox I used was this - 14 quid from amazon:

6174ZcRYlAL._AC_SY450_.jpg

I then created a protective cover and OTA attachment using the box it came in, and a bit of foam :) oh, plus 3 sheets of A4 to further dim and diffuse the light. The pic shown is with it on max brighness, I've only used the lowest setting so far on lum data. NB will probably require it to be kicked up a notch or two in brightness. Its amazing what you can do with a bit of glue and tape :D:D 

20200421_085840.thumb.jpg.ba1e7b836727bbbe1838ba005138d3b4.jpg

Probably needs a bit more tape around the edges, just to make it star party friendly.

 

Do you have a before and after comparison with your flats? I'm considering doing this based on your idea and it looks cheap and effective, without spending £200 on a flatbox.

Would rather spend that money on going towards a mono cam rather than that

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

I tried to enjoy the Moonless skies last week, "Mein Kampf" is described in the link below :)

Would be glad if someone would advise on how to improve....
Increase gain, or reduce to 0?

I am almost sure, any way I choose, LRGB will be noisy... very noisy...

Maybe someone has a good link to RGB noise reduction tutorial on Pixinsight?

 

Edited by RolandKol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, RolandKol said:

Maybe someone has a good link to RGB noise reduction tutorial on Pixinsight?

Hi Roland,

I would highly recommend the light vortex astronomy as they have some great PI tutorials.

I would Dynamic Crop, run ABE/DBE on the single RGB data, combine in pixelmath, then use background neutralization and the colour calibration followed by SCNR and move on from there. Although I am starting to use Photometric Colour Calibration instead of BN and CC more, not sure if this is better or not but I am just starting out with PI.

Not sure if any of this info would be of any use to you.

Cheers,

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 21/04/2020 at 09:06, Uranium235 said:

FYI, the lightbox I used was this - 14 quid from amazon:

I did the same thing- it works very well 😁

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello everyone!

I've just bought a 130PDS from FLO, there's going to be a little delay before it's delivered due to the ongoing "situation"

I've also ordered a Baader MPPC III  and a  2" SW Light Pollution Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction/liht-pollution-filter.html)

I now wonder if I should have bought a different filter.

I'll be using a Sony A5000 (APS-C sensor) and I'm in a rather inconveniently illuminated area.

In truth I just searched for LPFs and then bought the cheapest...which is probably a less then ideal selection method.

Would I be better off going with an Optolong UHC Light Pollution Filter(https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/optolong-uhc-light-pollution-filter.html) or Explore Scientific CLS Nebula Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/explore-scientific-cls-nebula-filter-1-25-2-inch.html) instead?

(I've read about the first 30pages of this thread, informative and very impressive images! I'll carry on reading, but I thought it was best to just ask :))

Edited by Piers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Piers said:

Hello everyone!

I've just bought a 130PDS from FLO, there's going to be a little delay before it's delivered due to the ongoing "situation"

I've also ordered a Baader MPPC III  and a  2" SW Light Pollution Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction/liht-pollution-filter.html)

I now wonder if I should have bought a different filter.

I'll be using a Sony A5000 (APS-C sensor) and I'm in a rather inconveniently illuminated area.

In truth I just searched for LPFs and then bought the cheapest...which is probably a less then ideal selection method.

Would I be better off going with an Optolong UHC Light Pollution Filter(https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/optolong-uhc-light-pollution-filter.html) or Explore Scientific CLS Nebula Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/explore-scientific-cls-nebula-filter-1-25-2-inch.html) instead?

(I've read about the first 30pages of this thread, informative and very impressive images! I'll carry on reading, but I thought it was best to just ask :))

I might consider holding off on the light pollution filter until you have started doing some basic imaging with it, as you might find you won't necessarily need it right away. 

Although I haven't used either filter, I have heard that some visual light pollution filters aren't quite suited to imaging, as they can upset the color balance quite a lot. But I'm sure others will provide more accurate and in-depth info than I can.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have a camera that's modded or with a strong response to Ha light (I think the A5000 does) then the Optolong L-Enhance filter would be an excellent investment for the nebula season.

You can either use it for synthetic colour images like those below or as originally intended as an L-layer to go on top of RGB data. These were taken with a modded Canon 450D and the L-enhance. and a 130-PDS.

<Edit I should add that before getting this filter I got a very basic moon and skyglow that cost about £15 and it worked absolute wonders for my images>

1743762800_RosetteFalseColourbinned.thumb.png.69b375042954129bf59a332edd237ed9.png

1060862815_RosetteHubble.thumb.png.33eae867b61695d60d34940a2d5f9f15.png

Edited by Stub Mandrel
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks very much, I'll have a read about the Optolong filter :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 01/05/2020 at 02:24, Piers said:

Thanks very much, I'll have a read about the Optolong filter :)

Argh! I've sold you a pup, those are some of my first narrowband images.

These are with the L-Enhance:

Heart_and_Soul.jpg

Swan_Nebula_M17.jpg

Flame_and_Horsehead.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 21/01/2019 at 08:06, lnlarxg said:

130pds on planetary. I love this scope (sometime I do hug and kiss it), proper solid partner earlier for the total lunar eclipse. 

10s shot at iso340 from canon 6d

 

 

6CF4243C-0143-4E35-81F9-F3E5EF8F68F7.jpeg

the word "wow" just came out my mouth, thought  i had to post!

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 21/04/2020 at 09:06, Uranium235 said:

FYI, the lightbox I used was this - 14 quid from amazon

Do you have a link to it please? I've always had trouble with flats but I've tried to use monitors and tablets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use one that looks identical. I think I got it of eBay. I use it at lowest setting, tell Sharpcap to make a flat from 64 frames but set the maximum capture rate to 2 frames per second. That gives me half a minute so I slowly rotate the panel through a full circle during the capture to ensure any gradient is cancelled out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have much else to post at the moment, so here is a reprocess of the Pleiades I took over 2 years ago. It really shows how much better I have become at editing my images, and how much detail you can really pull out if you do things right.

 

PleadiesReprocess.thumb.jpg.35f99ef4a09c4990f90810542b025bc5.jpg

Edited by Galen Gilmore
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 30/04/2020 at 18:24, Piers said:

Hello everyone!

I've just bought a 130PDS from FLO, there's going to be a little delay before it's delivered due to the ongoing "situation"

I've also ordered a Baader MPPC III  and a  2" SW Light Pollution Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction/liht-pollution-filter.html)

I now wonder if I should have bought a different filter.

I'll be using a Sony A5000 (APS-C sensor) and I'm in a rather inconveniently illuminated area.

In truth I just searched for LPFs and then bought the cheapest...which is probably a less then ideal selection method.

Would I be better off going with an Optolong UHC Light Pollution Filter(https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/optolong-uhc-light-pollution-filter.html) or Explore Scientific CLS Nebula Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/explore-scientific-cls-nebula-filter-1-25-2-inch.html) instead?

(I've read about the first 30pages of this thread, informative and very impressive images! I'll carry on reading, but I thought it was best to just ask :))

Welcome to the club :)

For what it's worth I have that LP filter and I found it helped me squeeze a bit more time out of my subs in a town-based location using an unmodded Canon APS-C chip (550D) so it might not have been a bad choice. Best way to find out is to try it!

Good luck & clear skies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did an M51 with my 130pds last night. I was testing out my new cooling system for my ASI224. The near full moon has washed it out quite a lot but I'm still quite happy with it for 2 hours exposure.

Autosave.thumb.jpg.c2cc4a23df727f4c0f64e7205344fc4b.jpg

Edited by cuivenion
  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
38 minutes ago, cuivenion said:

Did an M51 with my 130pds last night. I was testing out my new cooling sytem for my ASI224. The near full moon has washed it out quite a lot but I'm still quite happy with it for 2 hours exposure.

Autosave.thumb.jpg.c2cc4a23df727f4c0f64e7205344fc4b.jpg

Very nice result with such a cam ;)

I think to test mine on DSO also, but afraid to invest time in Bortle 8-9 skies....

Have you cooled it with cooler only? Or with peltier also?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Planetarian
      Hi, I've got a Skywatcher Heritage 130p reflector, and if i insert anything less than 10mm eyepiece, the image won't get crisp. I guess it's normal, but as I'm very new to astronomy, I'd like to know what the sharpness depends on exactly. 
      Is that the focal length (how fast the telescope is? ) or the size of the mirror and how much light it gathers? Or both affect it the same way?  
      Are things the same with refractors in this regard? Thanks. 
    • By ThadeusB
      I have for sale my Skywatcher Startravel 120. Objective lens 120mm; Focal length . It is in excellent condition, clean and only very minor marks. Clean optics, no fungus. The focusser is the original one and works smoothly; 1.25" and 2" adaptors. With both caps.
      A very good starter scope, or good as a portable scope.
      Included accessories: red dot finder; 90 degree star diagonal; 10mm & 25mm EPs; mobile phone adaptor. All in as new condition.
      Please don't ask me to split this package.
      Price £140.00 no offers.
      It will be very well packed.
      Payment: paypal or bank transfer
      I can deliver by Hermes; I can get a quotation for this if you wish. Or you can make your own courier arrangement, or collect in person.
      Please PM me if you would like more information.









    • By Quentent
      Hi,
       
      So just today i got my new EQ3 mount and tripod delivered.
      Brought it out, balanced it leveled it etc etc.
      So i polar aligned it,  and selected 2 Star Alignment.
      1st star to align to: Betelgeuse.
      As soon as i hit confirm align the motors kick in but as soon as the mount starts to rotate the motors stop and the hand controller resets itself immediatly and starts initializing all over again.
      I discovered that moving Ra on its own works just fine as does moving Dec on its own but whenever i press for example the left and Up arrows at the same time the mount stops and the hand controller resets.
      Could this just be a problem with power draw? The Synpro box takes 12V DC and is supplied by a 12V DC car outlet type power source. However i changed this to a 3 Pin UK 12V 1A DC & AC plug.
       
      Im hoping the power supply is the issue and not something else.
    • By Soulitude
      Hi everyone I am new here, I live in Perth Western Australia (bottle class 5) and have just brought my new set up. There hasn’t been anyone in the area I can talk to about astrophotography so tried to do it all myself online and I fear I may have incorrectly purchased some things. (I tried to get things one at a time for budget purposes)
      I have this set up
      heq5, evostar ed80, .85reducer & corrector, evoguide 50ed, zwo 120mm mini for guiding and just my canon 200d mkii for the imaging. 
      The telescope, I think I may have brought something that’s not great for imaging and that’s all I’ve wanted to do. 
      can you please provide a better telescope alternative that would be suitable for all my other gear without having to buy like a new mount etc. I’m thinking just a slightly better scope not too heavy, opinions would be much appreciated 💖💖💖 xx
    • By Tonny
      Hello guys  I am an absolute amateur buying his first telescope... and I am desperate, please help.
      My budget is around 1300 euro (1600$). I am interested mostly in DSO... astrophotography, but observing as well. 

      So refractors are better for astrophotography, crisp clear views, plus they are low maintenance... but refractors with big aperture are too expensive, apo refractors even more... and I think that I want big aperture, because I am interested in observing as well, not only astrophotography. Sooo more light, more details, more magnification. Please correct me, if I am mistaken.
      Also, I know the mount is really important for photography, but these scopes comes with mounts that maybe are not the best, but are they good enough? 

      I am considering these three options now:
      1. https://www.astroshop.eu/telescopes/skywatcher-telescope-n-200-1000-explorer-bd-neq-5-pro-synscan-goto/p,20291#tab_bar_1_select 
      2. https://www.astroshop.eu/telescopes/bresser-telescope-ac-152-760-ar-152s-messier-hexafoc-exos-2-goto/p,14209#tab_bar_2_select 
      3. https://www.astroshop.eu/telescopes/bresser-telescope-ac-127l-1200-messier-hexafoc-exos-2-goto/p,14206

      Bresser 127 have smaller aperture, but very good reviews... on the other hand Skywatcher have nice reviews as well and bigger aperture.
      Bresser 152 sounds really nice, but is a bit expensive, and as long as I have to buy an eyepiece, nebula filter, adapter for my DSLR, maybe this CA correcting filter... it will goes above my budget and I don't know if it deserve it, and again - Skywatcher wouldn't be better?
      The only thing that censers me about the Skywatcher is that collimation thing every time and that it could be too complicated for a newbie (that is what I read about big reflectors)... usually this kind of things wouldn't scare me, I mean how complicated it can be... If it is the better telescope than it deserve a little more maintenance?

      Since I am not going to be a professional, I want to observe and take photos just for fun - I know I have to compromise with something for this price... I am just very confused after all I read.... And as I said, I am a newbie never took a look trough a telescope, so I trust Internet and I am ready to buy the first telescope someone advise me  
      I don't thing I could afford buying telescope again any time soon, that is why I want something good, that I wouldn't need to change and be happy with it for maaany years.
      Please correct me, if I am wrong with all these and if there is a better telescope for me?

      Thanks in advance!  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.