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Imaging with the 130pds


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14 hours ago, lnlarxg said:

I need to learn more on how to get rid of gradient.

Have a go with abe then run photometric colour calibrator. Just search for the co-ordinates of your image, put in the pixel size of you camera and focal length and make sure you tick force platesolve, then try running sncr. I would then use the histogram transfer add two previews one in the background and one over a galaxy and then run background neutralization and then colour calibration and finally colour saturation.

I think there are lots of different way to work within pi but for now this is my route.

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From last night - think I have some Coma despite using a Baader CC. 109 x 60 sec's with a Canon 600D (astromodified) of NGC7635 - The Bubble Nebula + M52 (Cassiopeia Salt & Pepper Cluster) + NGC7538 (Northern Lagoon Nebula). Bortle 6 skies...

Roughly processed in Pixinsight.

Cheers
Ivor

Bubble_Nebula.jpg

Bubble_Nebula_detail.jpg

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Testing the new lightbox I built tonight, it seems to produce much better flats than a monitor - runs off usb power with variable brightness, which is great  :)

Just applied it to some M106 data I took a last week, which I didnt post here because the background was a bit blotchy. Flats from a different source seem to have cleared this up somewhat.

M106-improved_80.thumb.jpg.990eb212d5febfe18860b03f78f89e41.jpg

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FYI, the lightbox I used was this - 14 quid from amazon:

6174ZcRYlAL._AC_SY450_.jpg

I then created a protective cover and OTA attachment using the box it came in, and a bit of foam :) oh, plus 3 sheets of A4 to further dim and diffuse the light. The pic shown is with it on max brighness, I've only used the lowest setting so far on lum data. NB will probably require it to be kicked up a notch or two in brightness. Its amazing what you can do with a bit of glue and tape :D:D 

20200421_085840.thumb.jpg.ba1e7b836727bbbe1838ba005138d3b4.jpg

Probably needs a bit more tape around the edges, just to make it star party friendly.

 

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Hi Guys,

Another M57.
I had some CC spacing problems and suffered from heavy coma.

This one was the test image after some corrections been done, - only R and G filters 30min each at 30sec (blue failed to autofocus after SGP upgrade... ). :)

I have stacked them as l was curious if l can get any colour from 2 channels only ;)

Hope to add some data some day.

 

 

M57

 

Edited by RolandKol
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some more images of my come-back-to-astrophotography sessions :p on NGC 4565 it is no vignetting. just trying some new ways to present my images

all are taken on an EQM35PRO mount , and a Fujifilm xt-2 mirrorless camera.

i am considering an CC for my "little gem" : i am leaning to the Baader MPPC III . or would the Skywatcher itself be a good one? i will also look in the future for a CMOS..

any advice is welcome

NGC4565.jpg

light_BINNING_1_integration_DBE_NR_satur.jpg

M64metrand.jpg

LRGB1light_BINNING_1finalemetextraABE.jpg

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On 21/04/2020 at 09:06, Uranium235 said:

FYI, the lightbox I used was this - 14 quid from amazon:

6174ZcRYlAL._AC_SY450_.jpg

I then created a protective cover and OTA attachment using the box it came in, and a bit of foam :) oh, plus 3 sheets of A4 to further dim and diffuse the light. The pic shown is with it on max brighness, I've only used the lowest setting so far on lum data. NB will probably require it to be kicked up a notch or two in brightness. Its amazing what you can do with a bit of glue and tape :D:D 

20200421_085840.thumb.jpg.ba1e7b836727bbbe1838ba005138d3b4.jpg

Probably needs a bit more tape around the edges, just to make it star party friendly.

 

Do you have a before and after comparison with your flats? I'm considering doing this based on your idea and it looks cheap and effective, without spending £200 on a flatbox.

Would rather spend that money on going towards a mono cam rather than that

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Hi guys,

I tried to enjoy the Moonless skies last week, "Mein Kampf" is described in the link below :)

Would be glad if someone would advise on how to improve....
Increase gain, or reduce to 0?

I am almost sure, any way I choose, LRGB will be noisy... very noisy...

Maybe someone has a good link to RGB noise reduction tutorial on Pixinsight?

 

Edited by RolandKol
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6 hours ago, RolandKol said:

Maybe someone has a good link to RGB noise reduction tutorial on Pixinsight?

Hi Roland,

I would highly recommend the light vortex astronomy as they have some great PI tutorials.

I would Dynamic Crop, run ABE/DBE on the single RGB data, combine in pixelmath, then use background neutralization and the colour calibration followed by SCNR and move on from there. Although I am starting to use Photometric Colour Calibration instead of BN and CC more, not sure if this is better or not but I am just starting out with PI.

Not sure if any of this info would be of any use to you.

Cheers,

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Hello everyone!

I've just bought a 130PDS from FLO, there's going to be a little delay before it's delivered due to the ongoing "situation"

I've also ordered a Baader MPPC III  and a  2" SW Light Pollution Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction/liht-pollution-filter.html)

I now wonder if I should have bought a different filter.

I'll be using a Sony A5000 (APS-C sensor) and I'm in a rather inconveniently illuminated area.

In truth I just searched for LPFs and then bought the cheapest...which is probably a less then ideal selection method.

Would I be better off going with an Optolong UHC Light Pollution Filter(https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/optolong-uhc-light-pollution-filter.html) or Explore Scientific CLS Nebula Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/explore-scientific-cls-nebula-filter-1-25-2-inch.html) instead?

(I've read about the first 30pages of this thread, informative and very impressive images! I'll carry on reading, but I thought it was best to just ask :))

Edited by Piers
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2 hours ago, Piers said:

Hello everyone!

I've just bought a 130PDS from FLO, there's going to be a little delay before it's delivered due to the ongoing "situation"

I've also ordered a Baader MPPC III  and a  2" SW Light Pollution Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction/liht-pollution-filter.html)

I now wonder if I should have bought a different filter.

I'll be using a Sony A5000 (APS-C sensor) and I'm in a rather inconveniently illuminated area.

In truth I just searched for LPFs and then bought the cheapest...which is probably a less then ideal selection method.

Would I be better off going with an Optolong UHC Light Pollution Filter(https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/optolong-uhc-light-pollution-filter.html) or Explore Scientific CLS Nebula Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/explore-scientific-cls-nebula-filter-1-25-2-inch.html) instead?

(I've read about the first 30pages of this thread, informative and very impressive images! I'll carry on reading, but I thought it was best to just ask :))

I might consider holding off on the light pollution filter until you have started doing some basic imaging with it, as you might find you won't necessarily need it right away. 

Although I haven't used either filter, I have heard that some visual light pollution filters aren't quite suited to imaging, as they can upset the color balance quite a lot. But I'm sure others will provide more accurate and in-depth info than I can.

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If you have a camera that's modded or with a strong response to Ha light (I think the A5000 does) then the Optolong L-Enhance filter would be an excellent investment for the nebula season.

You can either use it for synthetic colour images like those below or as originally intended as an L-layer to go on top of RGB data. These were taken with a modded Canon 450D and the L-enhance. and a 130-PDS.

<Edit I should add that before getting this filter I got a very basic moon and skyglow that cost about £15 and it worked absolute wonders for my images>

1743762800_RosetteFalseColourbinned.thumb.png.69b375042954129bf59a332edd237ed9.png

1060862815_RosetteHubble.thumb.png.33eae867b61695d60d34940a2d5f9f15.png

Edited by Stub Mandrel
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On 21/01/2019 at 08:06, lnlarxg said:

130pds on planetary. I love this scope (sometime I do hug and kiss it), proper solid partner earlier for the total lunar eclipse. 

10s shot at iso340 from canon 6d

 

 

6CF4243C-0143-4E35-81F9-F3E5EF8F68F7.jpeg

the word "wow" just came out my mouth, thought  i had to post!

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I use one that looks identical. I think I got it of eBay. I use it at lowest setting, tell Sharpcap to make a flat from 64 frames but set the maximum capture rate to 2 frames per second. That gives me half a minute so I slowly rotate the panel through a full circle during the capture to ensure any gradient is cancelled out.

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I don't have much else to post at the moment, so here is a reprocess of the Pleiades I took over 2 years ago. It really shows how much better I have become at editing my images, and how much detail you can really pull out if you do things right.

 

PleadiesReprocess.thumb.jpg.35f99ef4a09c4990f90810542b025bc5.jpg

Edited by Galen Gilmore
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On 30/04/2020 at 18:24, Piers said:

Hello everyone!

I've just bought a 130PDS from FLO, there's going to be a little delay before it's delivered due to the ongoing "situation"

I've also ordered a Baader MPPC III  and a  2" SW Light Pollution Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction/liht-pollution-filter.html)

I now wonder if I should have bought a different filter.

I'll be using a Sony A5000 (APS-C sensor) and I'm in a rather inconveniently illuminated area.

In truth I just searched for LPFs and then bought the cheapest...which is probably a less then ideal selection method.

Would I be better off going with an Optolong UHC Light Pollution Filter(https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/optolong-uhc-light-pollution-filter.html) or Explore Scientific CLS Nebula Filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction-imaging/explore-scientific-cls-nebula-filter-1-25-2-inch.html) instead?

(I've read about the first 30pages of this thread, informative and very impressive images! I'll carry on reading, but I thought it was best to just ask :))

Welcome to the club :)

For what it's worth I have that LP filter and I found it helped me squeeze a bit more time out of my subs in a town-based location using an unmodded Canon APS-C chip (550D) so it might not have been a bad choice. Best way to find out is to try it!

Good luck & clear skies.

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Did an M51 with my 130pds last night. I was testing out my new cooling system for my ASI224. The near full moon has washed it out quite a lot but I'm still quite happy with it for 2 hours exposure.

Autosave.thumb.jpg.c2cc4a23df727f4c0f64e7205344fc4b.jpg

Edited by cuivenion
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38 minutes ago, cuivenion said:

Did an M51 with my 130pds last night. I was testing out my new cooling sytem for my ASI224. The near full moon has washed it out quite a lot but I'm still quite happy with it for 2 hours exposure.

Autosave.thumb.jpg.c2cc4a23df727f4c0f64e7205344fc4b.jpg

Very nice result with such a cam ;)

I think to test mine on DSO also, but afraid to invest time in Bortle 8-9 skies....

Have you cooled it with cooler only? Or with peltier also?

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