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Russe

Imaging with the 130pds

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On 17/01/2019 at 20:06, Whistlin Bob said:

Always a bit tricky imaging under a bright moon, but even more so when you’re in clumsy mode. Last night I managed to disconnect the power from my mount whilst aligning. Twice! Then I dropped an eyepiece by slewing the scope without having it fixed properly (fortunately it landed on the rubber eye cup). Finally I spent ages trying to work out why I couldn’t focus my guide-scope until the penny finally dropped that I was twiddling with the locking ring and not the focuser. So I’m taking this picture as a victory of the scope over its owner!

15x 10 min subs – Canon 600d – 130 pd-s- 7nm Ha filter.

 

Rosette Ha 190116.jpg

If I'm honest, I think that taking 10 minute subs with a non-cooled camera is a bit overkill and will bring in a lot of thermal noise, due to the sensor increasing temperature over time.

I reckon more 5 minute subs will do better but that's just my opinion

If the camera was cooled, then yes of course take long exposures.

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On 17/01/2019 at 20:06, Whistlin Bob said:

Always a bit tricky imaging under a bright moon, but even more so when you’re in clumsy mode. Last night I managed to disconnect the power from my mount whilst aligning. Twice! Then I dropped an eyepiece by slewing the scope without having it fixed properly (fortunately it landed on the rubber eye cup). Finally I spent ages trying to work out why I couldn’t focus my guide-scope until the penny finally dropped that I was twiddling with the locking ring and not the focuser. So I’m taking this picture as a victory of the scope over its owner!

15x 10 min subs – Canon 600d – 130 pd-s- 7nm Ha filter.

 

Rosette Ha 190116.jpg

Nice one Rob. I'm suffering major guilt for only getting one 5-minute sub(!) over the last two weeks 😞

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17 hours ago, matt_baker said:

If I'm honest, I think that taking 10 minute subs with a non-cooled camera is a bit overkill and will bring in a lot of thermal noise, due to the sensor increasing temperature over time.

I reckon more 5 minute subs will do better but that's just my opinion

If the camera was cooled, then yes of course take long exposures.

Hi Matt- yes the theory would suggest that, but I've tried this in practice and the longer exposures are giving me better results. I initially tried 5 minute exposures when I got the Ha filter and have gradually built up to ten and the results are definitely better. I think the cold weather helps!

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5 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Nice one Rob. I'm suffering major guilt for only getting one 5-minute sub(!) over the last two weeks 😞

It's hard going out in the cold sometimes- especially if the weather is uncertain. 

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Hi,

I could use a bit of an opinion on this, I can't decide if this is tilt or spacing.. I don't think it is collimation, because that looks pretty much bang on as far as I can tell at least. :)

CCD Inspector did say there was a little tilt, but with my limited knowledge I am not sure if it is enough to give these effects.

To me it looks like something is affecting the right side of the image, and a little top left too.

Any ideas?

 

Ha_DBE.jpg

Ha_DBE_corners.jpg

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2 hours ago, jjosefsen said:

Hi,

I could use a bit of an opinion on this, I can't decide if this is tilt or spacing.. I don't think it is collimation, because that looks pretty much bang on as far as I can tell at least. :)

CCD Inspector did say there was a little tilt, but with my limited knowledge I am not sure if it is enough to give these effects.

To me it looks like something is affecting the right side of the image, and a little top left too.

Any ideas?

which way is gravity pointing in respect to the image taking camera orientation into account?

How are you attaching the camera? Just the original two thumb screws?

Have you checked the tension / preloading on the draw tube?

I would say this is tilt but need to know the above to be sure. It would have to be quite bad to cause issues like these on such a small sensor.

It cant be spacing alone or you would have the same problem in all three corners.

Adam

 

Edited by Adam J

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That x shape stars is astigmatism. The same thing I suffered. Check the distance to the coma corrector and also relief a little bit the clips on the main mirror cell as they are hardly tighten and can create stress on the mirror.

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A couple of my recent efforts with the 130PDS the top one is a Bi color of the heart consisting of 70x240s Ha and 70 x 240s OIII using my ASI1600MM Pro and 5nm Astrodon Filters.

The Second image is 100 x 30s Lum and 40x 30s RGB per channel on M42.

2060232074_Heart_1_combine-RGBworkinprogressv5jpg.thumb.jpg.80ce12d6b60b13e5b62cd86ff80a3a82.jpg

1112926541_combine-RGB-image-NoStv2-processing4.thumb.jpg.002c2eefeb388c878c947674bf2de96a.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for looking,

Adam

Edited by Adam J
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22 minutes ago, Susaron said:

That x shape stars is astigmatism. The same thing I suffered. Check the distance to the coma corrector and also relief a little bit the clips on the main mirror cell as they are hardly tighten and can create stress on the mirror.

Yes. I have also seen an over compressed coma corrector cause this.

Adam

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23 minutes ago, Adam J said:

Yes. I have also seen an over compressed coma corrector cause this.

Adam

First of all, great shots Adam! I particularly like the Heart / Fish head.. Have you considered shooting a little RGB to replace the stars?

How exactly does one over compress a coma corrector? Screw it in too tight?

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49 minutes ago, Susaron said:

That x shape stars is astigmatism. The same thing I suffered. Check the distance to the coma corrector and also relief a little bit the clips on the main mirror cell as they are hardly tighten and can create stress on the mirror.

Whoops! I did tighten it all up quite firm that night, will go loosen it now.

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Just now, jjosefsen said:

First of all, great shots Adam! I particularly like the Heart / Fish head.. Have you considered shooting a little RGB to replace the stars?

How exactly does one over compress a coma corrector? Screw it in too tight?

Exactly. Screwing it too tight, although I have only seen an example that was with a baader click lock. The optics are very snug to the metal barrel.

Adam

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4 minutes ago, jjosefsen said:

Whoops! I did tighten it all up quite firm that night, will go loosen it now.

Problem is that with only two screws you will get tilt also as you tighten up the corrector. I added a third screw to get even pressure around the barrel and stop it from tilting. You also have to tighten them evenly in small amounts like with the head gasket on a car :). Same procedure with the colimation tool or you will tilt that.  If none of that then as above check the primary mirror clips.

Edited by Adam J

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Then it might be because I over tightened the screws when putting the cc.. I'm scared of the camera falling out. Will check next time.

I do plan to add a third screw, just need to buy the tools and screw.

Thanks for the input! 🙂

Edited by jjosefsen

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