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!st good run on M106


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Here is my rist good run guided on m106.  most of the shots are 3 to 5 minutes with a 7 minute snuck in there.  All lights at this point no darks.  It gave me a total on this of 45 minutes of data at 1600 iso.  Cropped and processed in PI.  Needs work but not bad I think. 

post-34263-0-40532200-1394397263_thumb.p

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M106 is a tricky object for a non modded DSLR camera.

You have made a good attempt.

Try working at 800 iso ( means slightly longer exposures ) and think about using the Astronomik CLS or IDAS light pollution filters. These darken the sky background and make the object more visible.

John

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Yea this image was shot under a quarter moon with no filter in place this time.  The image was a lot nicer looking in pixinsight when processing.  I would post it here to see if someone could process better but its 203 MB.  This was my first guided run on something other then m42 and it was a stack of 13 pictures.  Clouds rolled in and the dew covered the end of my scope within minutes so rad to roll in.

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A scope as slow as the 6SE won't work very well with a uncooled DSLR on faint the targets, the SNR is just too low so most of the image is noise. You can see in your image that only the galaxy core and stars are free from chroma noise, everything else is just overwhelmed by the noise.

The 8" newtonian will do much better when you get it, it will actually shorten your exposures to 1/4 so SNR will be much better.

Here's M106 made by a guy from Denmark with a 10" f/5 with a 1100Da. You already have Pixinsight so getting close to this should be in your reach if you modify your camera :)

http://www.astrobin.com/full/79450/0/

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This was shot with my new Orion 8".  4 2:00 shots stacked in DSS.  Still no darks as I ran out of time.  It got a bit windy and this scope is about the limit of this mount with wind.  Im impressed with the short exposures, and I didn't use a mask this time I just got too excited ad forgot a few things when I went out.

post-34263-0-60380600-1394641249_thumb.p

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Now on darks do I have to match the exposures exactly on time?  If I am taking a small amount of longer exposures, would it benefit me to let the camera automatically take the darks and turn on noise reduction?  At least that way I am forced to take the dark lol.  I never have time. 

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Yes exactly the same length and ISO.

You waste half your time if the camera takes darks and it doesn't remove the noise as good as stacked darks either. Remember that you can reuse darks later length, ISO and temperature matches, with time you will have a library with darks.

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