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which camera mount for skywatcher 130p synscan

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Morning folks.

After taking some images without the telescope and getting some good results, I've decided its high time I got the camera adapter for the scope, to try some deep space photography.

Now the problem I have is I'm not exactly sure of what to get.

I have a sony alpha a77.  I've had a look on ebay and found barlow 2x with t adapter and an alternative with a 3x barlow. 

But from what I can guess, the 2x barlow is the same as the barlow I have.

Any recommendations, as i'm getting slightly confused being a newbie.

Many thanks


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I think you need a T-adapter for your camera. i.e. a fitting that fits your camera lens mount type on your camera body and provides the standard female T-thread interface. You'll probably find such an item at a decent camera shop or on somewhere like ebay.

Normally from that you then use a T-thread to 1.25" adapter that goes into the focuser's 1.25" EP holder, or a coma corrector (2") etc should screw into the T-thread instead and go into the 2" focuser EP holder.

if your barlow is T-threaded already (often are) then you just need the camera to T-thread piece) but often you can find the 2 piece kit for similar prices.

You'd normally not use the barlow lens itself, so remove it by unscrewing. Unless you're imaging something bright like planets/Moon or really require extra magnification then you can optionally try with the barlow lens in place for a narrower field, at the expense of much longer equivalent exposure times.

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I believe that with the 130 you can remove the end of the draw tube (where the ep's go) and directly attach a dslr with a t ring. Do not try abs use a Barlow for deep sky with an alt az mount. You'll make your f/5 score into an f/10. You'll struggle enough with the exposure length in alt az without needing to capture exposures 4 x as long. With alt az your limited to a max of 2 minutes low in the east and Westreducing down to 30 to 40 second North South and overhead. I'm not sure you'll be able to balance out enough either. SW do a camera mount dovetail (found it on FLO in the dovetail section) which will allow you to mount the camera directly to the mount. Then use a camera lens. The light leaf will be a lot easier on the mount and make balancing easier to.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

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right so you can take the lens out of the barlow and use it as a t to 1.25" adapter. Only use it as an actual barlow on planets/Moon and very bright stuff.

Nebula are generally dim and very big, the last thing you want is to barlow it.

Take lots of subs up to the exposure length limit where you start to see trails and then stack them, I've seen some great results with logs of very short exposures stacked.

If it's a P (not PDS) then you might not get prime focus, I couldn't with mine and my APS-C DSLR (Pentax K5). In that case a barlow (with lens) can be used temporarily (as it shifts the focal point back out of the draw-tube) and more correctly you can move the primary mirror cell up the tube with longer bolts.

As with all these things you'll probably need to try it to see what works and what does not. But don't barlow DSOs and faint stuff, that will increase your exposure time (for a 2x barlow, 4x exposure times needed!) and unless you have a guided EQ mount that can guide indefinitely (which you don't) then you want to get the most photons captured per second of exposure...

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what stacking software is better to use.

I tried using deep sky stacker, for some general shots I did of dslr, for stars its great, but when I try to add something interesting in the foreground i.e building it changes the colour completely of the building or scene

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