First attempt of the Double Cluster.

[AstroJones]

This is our first attempt of the Double Cluster (NGC 869 & 884)

We used a Nikon D3200 and stacked 20 images at 30 seconds of exposure, The ISO was set to 1600.

https://secure.flickr.com/photos/112147206@N05/12109371435/

Opinions please! we think it turned out well for a first attempt but i do think it's a bit red, hopefully the skies stay clear so we can get more images to stack.

Thank's for looking

[wxsatuser]

It is a bit red but you got a nice lot of stars.

[AstroJones]

It is a bit red but you got a nice lot of stars.

I also think it's a bit too red, i will try and fix it

[AstroJones]

It is a bit red.

How is this:  https://secure.flickr.com/photos/112147206@N05/12118773014/

I think that one looks alot better.

[Spoon]

thats alot nicer, need to get rid of the vignetting however, flats will make this a lovely image

great job

[AstroJones]

thats alot nicer, need to get rid of the vignetting however, flats will make this a lovely image

great job

Thank's, sorry to ask but how do i take flat frames?? i have seen videos where poeple put shirts over their scopes, is this the correct way or is there another way?

(sorry i'm still new to this)

[Spoon]

Yeah that could work, just a white t-shirt and the same exposure, focus and temperature as you lights, focus and temperature are CRITICAL with flats else they are rendered useless pretty much!

Hope this helps

Cam

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[Davey-T]

What processing software are you using ? there should be a few orange/yellow stars you may be able to recapture their colour. Nice looking image though, keep up the good work, weather permitting.

Dave

[Pete Presland]

nice 1st image, star colour is very easy to loose. a Shorter exposure may help preserve star colour, there should be enough color left around the edge of the burnt out disc to re-colour in photoshop. unfortunately its something you have to put up with using a DSLR.

[AstroJones]

Yeah that could work, just a white t-shirt and the same exposure, focus and temperature as you lights, focus and temperature are CRITICAL with flats else they are rendered useless pretty much!

We will try this out and see if it improves our images, thank's

[AstroJones]

What processing software are you using ? there should be a few orange/yellow stars you may be able to recapture their colour. Nice looking image though, keep up the good work, weather permitting.

Dave

Thank's

The software we use is, Deep Sky Stacker, and Adobe photoshop. We also have Adobe lightroom but it's a trial.

[Davey-T]

You should be able to find a tutorial on You Tube on how to revive star colours in Photoshop.

Dave

[Chris-B]

This is how I take my flats straight after the lights+darks

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/193836-9-diy-lightbox/#entry2030058

Works very well if I do say so myself!

[Steve 1962]

 the same exposure, focus and temperature as you lights, focus and temperature are CRITICAL with flats else they are rendered useless pretty much

Sorry, but on the basis of my experience, I tend to disagree with Spoon on this.

When taking flat frames, I find they work best when you achieve a histogram in the middle third of the graph (i.e. a neutral grey) - with my camera this equates to 30,000ADU.....and you will probably have to adjust your exposure to achieve this.

Because they are generally short duration, the temperature of flats is not really a factor.

Temperature and exposure are only really factors which must be maintained during dark frame acquisition.

I do agree that it makes sense to maintain the same focus for flats though.

However, since the aim of flats is to calibrate out dust and vignetting, you would be advised to acquire them as soon after your light frames as possible in order to reduce the chance of the dust that is there during your subs moving, or new dust arriving after your subs.

Nice image by the way! 

Hope this helps.

Steve

[Spoon]

Go with what Steve said, he is most probably more experienced than me I'm just passing on what I've been told

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