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My first short time lapse

Stargazer 2013

By Stargazer 2013
in Discussions - Cameras

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Spikey

Spikey

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May do another one in the dark.may look better? what do you think?

I don't know anything about timelapses I'm afraid but I've seen some decent ones on here.

You could be right though, the red background might be reflecting too much glare from the flame.

Try it further away from a background perhaps? 

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Stargazer 2013

Stargazer 2013

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I don't know anything about timelapses I'm afraid but I've seen some decent ones on here.

You could be right though, the red background might be reflecting too much glare from the flame.

Try it further away from a background perhaps? 

yeah I wanted something black but don't have anything,have a black bathrobe though,that may help

Oh and the lens kept misting up inside the cam because my room is pretty cold,around 10c and the flame was warming the lens up,as you know cold and heat on glass mists things up,will turn fire on and get some heat into the room lol

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Spikey

Spikey

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yeah I wanted something black but don't have anything,have a black bathrobe though,that may help

Oh and the lens kept misting up inside the cam because my room is pretty cold,around 10c and the flame was warming the lens up,as you know cold and heat on glass mists things up,will turn fire on and get some heat into the room lol

Make sure it's not too close if it's flammable !

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Stargazer 2013

Stargazer 2013

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A couple of light polluted meteor shower timelapses from me, worth watching in Hd.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mattpie/11778283505/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mattpie/11388436314/

If you needed help with setting up and shooting timelapses get in touch :)

Fantastic..few qurstions

What was the fps on these? First one looked very quickly compared to the second time lapse.

What interval was the pictures taken? How many seconds apart

How many pics taken? Looked to be a few thousand?

What type of focus was iit? Zoom or primary lens

Hope you can clear this up fior me :)

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astrorabbit

astrorabbit

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The faster was 24fps and slower at just 12fps!

When doing intervalometer on a nikon body you must leave 3 seconds between frames to allow the camera to save the file, so in the settings for a 30 second exposure I program 33 seconds. I believe the Geminids were 8 second shots and the Quadratids were longer at 15 seconds. So 11 second and 18 second intervals.

Thousands and thousands of shots, the Quadrantids was shot over two days with about 12 hours of continuous shooting... Effort! Not worth shooting in raw, just shot straight to jpeg after getting exposure and white balance about spot on in camera. Its important to set things like exposure and white balance as well as iso to manual so you don't have odd frames that stand out.

These two were shot using a very wide angle 10mm lens, set to manual focus and checking infinity for every angle. I didn't shoot wide open, needed a little depth of field and better quality in sharpness when you stop down a little.

Any zooming effects were added in post production as doing that with the lens would have taken forever!

Hope this helps?

Cheers,

Matthew.

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Stargazer 2013

Stargazer 2013

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Thank you Matthew. That's helped. When I do a time lapse I just cant get it in focus. I tried to do one in a primary lens and a zoom kit lens. My sdcard only is a 4GB . I dont think I will ever get the hang of time lapses. So I need to a have a 3 second gap. So one picture every at least 8 seconds is enough?

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astrorabbit

astrorabbit

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Lens doesn't matter too much, just set the camera to manual focus and set the focus on the subject. I'd then experiment with settings taking single photos of the object until you are happy with the photo. You can then clear the memory card to make as much space as possible, I always use an empty memory card for timelapse to avoid confusion..

If the camera is set manually it won't change its exposure or focus between shots which is important for time lapse.

One picture every 8 seconds is definitely enough especially for slow moving subjects.

To timelapse a candle is quite difficult as it can flicker in the slightest breeze quite rapidly so I'd advise putting it somewhere where nothing can affect it and letting the camera take pictures for at least an hour or two so that you record it burning down slowly.

4gb memory should be enough as for time lapse you will want to be shooting in jpeg as raw files will take forever to convert,  especially when you might have 1000 pictures taken.

If you have an Android device take a look at "Time Lapse Calculator"

Its a brilliant and free bit of simple software that aids you innworking out how long a timelapse will be or take to shoot.
Don't give up trying, you've got the hang of the hard bit on the computer side of things already :)
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JED-E3

JED-E3

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Something which might help is setting a longer shutter speed by stopping the lens down or using a neutral density filter, that should reduce how much flicker you get from variations in brightness of the candle from one frame to the next.

James.

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astrorabbit

astrorabbit

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The slower your shutter the more blur there will be between frames, a candle up close is a bright subject, try closing your aperture to f16 or f22 for this experiment and set your iso setting to 100. This should help you acheive a slower shutter without overexposing. 1/100th won't show you much motion blur between frames and the candle will still appear to flicker bewteen frames.

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Stargazer 2013

Stargazer 2013

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The slower your shutter the more blur there will be between frames, a candle up close is a bright subject, try closing your aperture to f16 or f22 for this experiment and set your iso setting to 100. This should help you acheive a slower shutter without overexposing. 1/100th won't show you much motion blur between frames and the candle will still appear to flicker bewteen frames.

Thanks..I have it on F18 and ISO @ 100..Shutter speed at ?  many thanks

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