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Nikon D3200 24.2 Megapixel Digital SLR Camera


Stargazer 2013

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From f/2.8 to f/5.6 is it's sweet spot.  

If you look through this test of the lens, on page 2 is the analysis and you can see where the lens performs its best.   http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/628-nikkor3518dx'>http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/628-nikkor3518dx

To get the sharpest images, you have to learn how to hold the camera still, while releasing the shutter.  Then learn the use of combinations of ISO speed, shutter speed and aperture that allow for stopped action and best of all, get a good tripod and use your remote shutter release.   Another big one, but unrelated to image sharpness, is understanding light and how it interacts with your subject but that is a another whole topic.

You're on the learning curve of photography, it takes a while to wrap your head around all the parameters that go into getting a great capture.   Keep reading and applying all the learned techniques.  You've now got your first really good lens, learn how to use it effectively and get some great photographs.   If I take 10 shots, I might be pleased with one of them.   Learn to experiment and look at your work with a critical eye.

Have you installed View NX2 yet?   That allows for some limited post processing but better yet is Capture NX2.   You'll have to learn how to post process images but my suggestion is to get them as correct as you can in the camera first!

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From f/2.8 to f/5.6 is it's sweet spot.  

If you look through this test of the lens, on page 2 is the analysis and you can see where the lens performs its best.   http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/628-nikkor3518dx

To get the sharpest images, you have to learn how to hold the camera still, while releasing the shutter.  Then learn the use of combinations of ISO speed, shutter speed and aperture that allow for stopped action and best of all, get a good tripod and use your remote shutter release.   Another big one, but unrelated to image sharpness, is understanding light and how it interacts with your subject but that is a another whole topic.

You're on the learning curve of photography, it takes a while to wrap your head around all the parameters that go into getting a great capture.   Keep reading and applying all the learned techniques.  You've now got your first really good lens, learn how to use it effectively and get some great photographs.   If I take 10 shots, I might be pleased with one of them.   Learn to experiment and look at your work with a critical eye.

Have you installed View NX2 yet?   That allows for some limited post processing but better yet is Capture NX2.   You'll have to learn how to post process images but my suggestion is to get them as correct as you can in the camera first!

Thanks for reply,no not installed View NX2,I am using Linux Ubuntu at moment as my laptop hdd has decided to play up and hate this ubuntu so when my new laptop hdd comes I will install it..thanks again

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okay!   Capture NX2 takes some learning.   I generally just use focus-unsharp mask, light - levels & controls, color booster and crop.   Use these sparingly!   Over processing looks horrible.   ;-)

View NX2 is a good viewer, with limited process controls but sometimes, they are all you need.   You should have both programs.

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Sorry for my rant..I had enough of this

TIMER REMOTE CONTROL shutter release pile of rubbish.. It works one day then next day nothing.I have my camera on manual on switch and manual on dial,it won't even take a snap on auto or manual..Really don't undersyand it..

It worked once while I did a time lapse but nothing,zero now..

I am going to complain to ebay seller :mad:

 
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Make sure it is focused properly (manually by turning the focus ring) & try it again. Could be camera is set to focus release which means it won't fire unless it is in focus. You could also set the release to shutter which will fire it every time whether focused or not.

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Make sure it is focused properly (manually by turning the focus ring) & try it again. Could be camera is set to focus release which means it won't fire unless it is in focus. You could also set the release to shutter which will fire it every time whether focused or not.

Cheers..it was working before I read this post..So odd,done nothing different

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Once you get the hang of the camera it may be worth starting to shoot in raw and then processing in lightroom, this enables you to bring out the full potential of what you shoot, another steep learning curve though so take your time.

Oh and YouTube is great for tutorial videos

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I have M/A and M..I knew aout auto focus with manual controls which is ok ut I tend todo most things manually unless I am lazy lol..

I have been looking at so  many youtube vids.Great help..I am getting there slowly.

Someone said that putting it  on 12mp from 24mp is better? better picture..

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Show down, I did a search as i don't know the answer but thought there must be one or more. Reads like there is something to try with out getting a screw driver out :-)

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/191821-focusing-d3200-and-t-ring-adapter/?fromsearch=1

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/172597-settings-for-nikon-d3200-and-telescope/?fromsearch=1

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Hi Stargazer,

First may I express my deep condolances to you for your recent loss, as a father of 3, I cannot imagine how you must feel right now.

Your focus problem is quite a common one with newtonian scopes and there are several options open to you... without resorting to, not recommended, hacking of the focuser. 

1. add a 2 x Barlow lens between the focuser and the camera.

2. Move the primary mirror towards the secondary mirror by 1- 1.5cm.

3. Fit a low profile focuser.

4. Trade the 130 P for a 130 P-DS which has options 2 and 3 already done for astrophotography + it also has a 10 : 1 dual speed focuser.

Option 1 is the easiest to do, but requires the cost of a Barlow lens (assuming you have not got one)

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-eyepieces/skywatcher-deluxe-2x-barlow.html.

This will move the focus point further out of the focuser and will allow you to reach focus.

The down side is... you will get a narrower field of view and the brightness of the image will be lower... meaning longer exposure times will be needed.

A 2x Barlow lens will double the focal length to 1300mm and therefore increase the focal ratio from F5 to F10... this will require exposures of about 3 times the length... i.e. 10 seconds becomes 30 seconds.

Option 2 is the best option cost wise since it only requires the price of a few longer collimation screws, longer collimation springs and longer locking screws, and an hour or so of work to do the job. 

Moving the primary mirror will make the focus point come futher out of the focuser... hence you should be able to focus the camera.

The down sides are... you will need to re-collimate the mirrors after moving the primary... you may need to fit a short extension to allow eyepieces to come to focus (depending on how much outward travel you have got).

Option 3... this will allow the the camera to move closer to the secondary... thus achieving the extra IN-focus distance.

The down sides are... a low profile focuser is expensive... you will almost certainly need eyepiece extensions, since the low profile focuser will have much less outward travel... possibly some minor alterations to the focuser mounting may be required.

Option 4... this will do all of the above with little work involved... the P-DS version is built with astrophotography in mind... it is, however the most costly.

At this stage, if I were in your position, I would try and borrow a 2x barlow lens and see how you get on with it... then if it works for you you could invest in your own one.

Alternatively, I would use option 2 and move the primary mirror.

 I hope this helps you on your way.

My very best regards.

Sandy. :grin:

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