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First post - I'm aware this is a question asked a lot, but after a lot of post reading and over saturation of information I've decided asking the question myself to you guys is the only solution!
I've just become an owner of the Heritage 130p, just wondering whether a decent eyepiece set is realistic?
My budget is in the £40-£70 range, aware this might only achieve one eyepiece?
I've not picked an area of interest yet although I would love to hunt out DSOs.
I'm in NE London so light pollution is a big factor.
Thought people may like to see my recent custom design for my SkyWatcher Heritage 130p...
As a big Apollo misson geek, and not being a fan of the stock astronomer names wrap on the 130p, I decided to get creative.
I used a great moon wall sticker just £6 from Ikea (https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/kinnared-decoration-stickers-moon-00448463/) as well as some matt vinyl stickers from Redbubble, one for each Apollo mission patch.
Below is pics of the mod in progress and the end result - would love to hear what you think!
Found various threads on here and other forums about flocking dobsonians/newtonians but couldn't find specific images of disassembly of the very popular SkyWatcher Heritage 130p flextube and flocking of the OTA.
So having ordered some DC-Fix black velour sticky back material (can be got from various places including FLO) I thought i'd share some photos of the process from start to finish as it may help someone else in the future...
Images below with notes...
1. Focuser and shield flocking
This was the easy bit. A strip stuck inside the focuser, and just unscrew the shield, draw round it, cut the material and align and smooth down. In the last image above you can already see the significant improvement on reducing reflections comparing the flocked shield to the unflocked tube...
Notice my version of Bob's Knobs on the secondary mirror which are just black steel M4 25mm knurled thumbscrews bought off ebay for about £7 - along with the thumbscrews already on the 130P primary mirror this makes any fine collimation easy and completely tool free!
For full stealth mode I've also painted the edge and rear of the secondary mirror, and any exposed screw heads with blackboard paint to reduce reflections.
2. OTA disassembly and tube before
Note the cutout in the lower primary housing and the top ring. This aligns with the ridge of the tube seam, and means there is only one way to reassemble the telescope tube and mirror and one place for the handful of screws (4 at the bottom, 3 at the top). You'll also need an allen key to remove the 3 bolts for the dovetail mount. Simple!
Now you're ready to Flock 'N' Roll! 👍🏻
3. Flocking the tube
You'll need approx. 50cmx29cm of the material to do the tube in one go, starting along the seam. As others have described just take your time here, peel off about an inch of the backing and get the edge aligned with the tube seam stick down firmly and smooth out any air bubbles.
Then slowly keep peeling more backing (rip and remove if the excess gets in the way) and smooth down as you go, turning the tube and affixing the velour material.
4. Finished flocking and close up during application so you can see contrast/reflection comparison of before and after.
All in all only took around an hour so not a hard job as long as you prepare and concentrate! I ordered one sheet of 45cm x 1m material which was plenty, however if your not as confident you'll get it right first time then order 2m so you have more to spare if you need to start again.
Looks great, so as always I now just need clear skies to go play and see the difference it makes!
Was looking for a simple and sturdy 3-legged stand or table to raise the height slightly of the Heritage 130p when viewing on the lawn away from my garden table and so my 7yr old daughter can stand and observe easily.
Suddenly came across this thread on Reddit which seemed to have the perfect solution from our Swedish friends at Ikea... https://www.reddit.com/r/telescopes/comments/doi3n5/skywatcher_heritage_130_or_awb_onesky_ikea_kyrre/ (see pictures below) and also discovered some more customisation ideas for the same stool in this thread from across the pond...https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/463109-onesky-newtonian-astronomers-without-borders/?p=9734431
The UK Ikea store sells the stool in plain solid birch (£10) or stained black/blue (£12) and delivery is just £3.95...have a black one on order (wont arrive until 5 June though) and will report back when I, have it... https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/kyrre-stool-black-70434976/
Anyone else used one or made something similar for this fab little scope?
By Mr niall
sorry I can hear the groans already... I have a heritage 130p and I just can’t get to grips with it. I had some pleasing views of collinder 399 tonight and some nice widefield with my 20mm eyepiece but it all goes horrible wrong above about 50x.
Ive got a sneaky feeling that this scope is capable of quite a lot but I just can’t get it to deliver. I’m finding it a struggle to get any sort of focussing sweet spot, with flare and noticeable coma from about 50% from the centre of view.
planets are a disaster; and I know seeing is terrible at the mo but Mars showed nothing but a small tangerine tonight, no hint of anything vaguely resembling detail (and quite smudgy - sometimes almost looking like the view through poorly collimated binoculars...). Jupiter has shown bands just about but not in this lifetime or the next will I get enough focus to show GRS, similarly the Cassini division is a pipe dream. I’ve had all of these easily with my old Skymax 127 and that WAS slightly miscollimated.
range of cheaper eyepieces tried - up to about 175x, had a go with a BST starguider (25mm) that I really couldn’t afford out of desperation but same again.
so the obvious answer is a collimation issue - thing is - I’ve been fiddling with this thing until I’ve lost my mind! Tried a cheap Cheshire and got nowhere so moved the Cheshire on, but now I’m just using a collimation cap; thought I had it cracked but same again tonight. I’ve read Astro baby, watched Orion UK videos, Gary Seronik and about a dozen others....
Using the Rigel Collimation cap I can get the centre of the primary aligned perfectly with the hole in the cap. I’m wondering whether I’ve repeatedly misunderstood the secondary collimation procedure... are there different symptoms for primary and secondary miscollimation? I don’t know - I’ve “started again” about a dozen times now and end up in the same place.
sorry for the rant, not easy to admit failure - especially when it’s something so routine.