DIY Canon DSLR DC PSU

[MattGoo]

I've recently made myself a 12v to 7.4v battery conversion for my Canon 1000D DSLR Camera. This allows you to power it using a 12v source such as a Skywatcher Powertank/Leisure battery, and ensures there's no need for battery swaps mid-imaging run. If you buy a pre-made one then these are ~£40 from Astronomiser etc.

Parts, Tools and Instructions are detailed below.

Note: I've put Maplin codes, links and prices for some of the parts for reference, but they can probably be obtained elsewhere cheaper. e.g. eBay, Farnell, RS Components etc.

Note 2: This is a guide only and I take no responsibility for people breaking their camera!

Parts List:

• Velleman K1823 1A PSU (Maplin VE58N) £9.99
• Plastic Enclosure 75x51x25 (Maplin KC92A) £2.99
• 12v Switch (Maplin N84JZ) £1.99
• 3mm 12v Red LED (Maplin CJ66W) £0.74
• 3mm LED holder (Maplin N85AX) £1.34
• 20mm fuseholder (Maplin CT90X) £1.05
• 20mm fuse 1A (Maplin GJ90X) £0.21
• TO220 Heatsink (Maplin KU50E) £1.14
• Canon 1000D LP-E5 Battery (eBay) £2.19
• 12v Cigarette Lighter Plug & Lead (eBay) £2.75
• Wire ~£0
• Zip ties ~£0
• TOTAL: £24.39

Tools:

• Soldering iron
• Solder
• Glue gun
• Drill
• Stanley knife
• Wirecutters
• Small philips screwdriver
• Multimeter

Instructions:

• Open K1823 kit and complete using enclosed instructions, apart from lying the large capacitor down on its side - so it fits into the case.
• Place heatsink onto TM317, will have to bend the component back slightly so it fits in the case.
• Drill one hole in either end of the plastic enclosure for wires in & out.
• Make holes in enclosure lid for led holder, fuse holder and switch.
• Fit items into lid.
• Cut end off cig plug.
• Measure & cut wires, solder up according to wiring diagram.
• Carefully open LP-E5 battery case & remove battery, but retain contacts. (Can cut down small pcb just to leave contacts, if easier)
• Make a small hole in the battery case for wire to come out of.
• Solder up output wires from K1823 to contacts inside battery case.
• Check everything including all soldered joints.
• Insert fuse into fuse holder.
• Insert cig plug into a 12v source (e.g. Powertank).
• Use multimeter to check output voltage.
• Adjust potentiometer on K1823 board to get correct 7.4v.
• Switch everything off.
• Glue K1823 board into enclosure.
• Fit tie-wraps both sides of wires coming out of enclosure for strain relief.
• Glue battery case back together.
• Switch everything back on & re-check output voltage.
• Screw lid onto enclosure.
• If ok, then insert battery into camera and turn on.

[JAS]

Looks like you have made a nice tidy job of that.

I did a similar thing for my 1100D, it was well worth the effort.

Jason.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk 2

[SniffTheGlove]

Or just do the battery mod  and use http://www.caravantechnology.com/Caravan-and-Leisure-In-Car-Charger-P46C25.aspx

Works great with my 1100D

Edited December 6, 2013 by SniffTheGlove

[hutchyweb]

Just what i need!

I've ordered the bits and i'll do the build this weekend

Thanks

[JemC]

Or just do the battery mod  and use http://www.caravantechnology.com/Caravan-and-Leisure-In-Car-Charger-P46C25.aspx

Works great with my 1100D

Can I ask

what's the battery mod?

Regards

JemC

[JemC]

Hi

Can anyone shed any light on what this battery mod thing is that was mentioned above?

Regards

JemC

[furball]

It's the bit mentioned in the original instructions, i.e. opening up the cheap battery case, removing the actual battery and soldering somw wires to the contacts.

Lance

[arioch1st]

I know that this topic is old but... Thanks for creating the guide Matt.

Did the diy psu work ok with out causing any problems with your dslr?

[MattGoo]

Yes, it's been fine, no problems with powering my DSLR.

Only improvements could be to use a non-illuminated switch (it gave off too much light!) and maybe put in a voltmeter to display the output voltage.

[arioch1st]

Many thanks Matt,

Superb topic and a great job you have done.

I made one so that i can use my NEQ6 to power my DSLR

So i incorporated jack plugs and sockets and because i was using

my mount to provided the power i omitted the rocker switch.

Also instead of stripping a battery i used a dummy battery pack

that comes with a mains psu that is used to power a dslr.

[arioch1st]

Here is my finished job...

[deafasabat]

Many belated thanks for this. I have all of the bits and am about to start construction, but have 2 questions before I do, both concerning the battery mod. I understand the principal, as I made a similar mod for my Olympus E400 a few years ago, but used a adapter that was designed to take AA cells, therefore no need to break into the battery to remove things.  Question 1- just how do you open the battery? With a modelling knife, a Dremel or what. The case appears to be well glued together so there is no easy way in. Question 2- my camera is a Canon 60D and the battery has 2 large and 2 small contacts, which provide power and status data I assume. Do all 4 have to be live or can it just be the power contacts. As shown in the attached photo, the small contacts are marked + and -, and the larger ones are marked T and C.  I am assuming that once inside there is a circuit board. Would the incoming leads from the PSU connect at the point where the terminals on the cells are now, or do I bypass the pcb and go direct to the power outputs only?  

I would be very grateful for any guidance that you can offer, thanks

 

Chris

[Dr_Ju_ju]

As in the picture above, 3 up, you can buy a module, that replaces the battery and you plug your power source into the side...  I've made a few of them & they work a treat..

[deafasabat]

But these are listed at £104.99, so I think not.  In the original post an ordinary battery was used.

I have now opened the casing and need to know which of the four connections inside need to be connected to the incoming cable from the adapter, and does the wire strip need to be retained?

[Mick J]

I think you can find cheaper than £104 and this was just a quick search   link

[Kaliska]

I just use these and the battery lasts all night https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0748G9GPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F5Q4F0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[bottletopburly]

Many ways to skin a cat , i got this configuration https://www.amazon.co.uk/Conenset-battery-charger-Coupler-Replacement/dp/B072SV787Q/ref=pd_day0_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B6CECWHHE8NVADPM0ZT3

[SplintUK]

I built my adapter as per instructions but alas it just isn't powerful enough for my EOS 760D - I guess its the 1A part that is letting it down as the voltage is perfect. I'll try it on some of my other cameras when I get the chance... 

[Imago10]

On 18/12/2017 at 12:45, deafasabat said:

Many belated thanks for this. I have all of the bits and am about to start construction, but have 2 questions before I do, both concerning the battery mod. I understand the principal, as I made a similar mod for my Olympus E400 a few years ago, but used a adapter that was designed to take AA cells, therefore no need to break into the battery to remove things.  Question 1- just how do you open the battery? With a modelling knife, a Dremel or what. The case appears to be well glued together so there is no easy way in. Question 2- my camera is a Canon 60D and the battery has 2 large and 2 small contacts, which provide power and status data I assume. Do all 4 have to be live or can it just be the power contacts. As shown in the attached photo, the small contacts are marked + and -, and the larger ones are marked T and C.  I am assuming that once inside there is a circuit board. Would the incoming leads from the PSU connect at the point where the terminals on the cells are now, or do I bypass the pcb and go direct to the power outputs only?  

I would be very grateful for any guidance that you can offer, thanks

 

Chris

Hi Chris do you find solution? I also wondering do i need to soldier to circuit or straight to battery case pins? 

[deafasabat]

I am sorry to say that I never did sort this out and ended up buying a battery replacement, from E Bay I think. It is called a dc coupler. Works off 12volts.

[Brownthunder93]

On 17/09/2015 at 22:28, arioch1st said:

Here is my finished job...

What parts of Matt’s original post were altered to do this version? I’m thinking about using this through an ASIAir pro

[Dr_Ju_ju]

The ASIAir Pro, is basically a Raspberry Pi4 with a DC regulator to provide the 5.5 volts, required for the Pi and the additional output, while Canon cameras usually need 7.4 volts (both my 600D & 1100d use 7.4v), so you would need an additional DC regulator, to run off the 12 volt supply.    

[chemistorge]

To power my canon 40d (and more recently 80d), I just put a dc-dc buck converter (£2) (Link) in a box with 2.1 mm jacks for input/ outputs and set the output voltage to 7.6 v. Using a canon fake battery power cable with 2.1 mm jack. I can then either use a mains 12v, 3a PSU, or 12v battery to power the camera all night long. This set up has worked for over a year with no problems.