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Uranium235

Crescent and California (narrowband)

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Tuesday night was a cracker, very clear and despite getting buzzed by a few clouds I put in my first long session for some time.

First up was the Crescent, which I havent attempted for a while. Time in Cygnus is limited to four hours from sunset for me as it eventually disappears behind a house at this time of year, so it was just two hours data per channel - Ha and OIII. Its been framed in such a way as to eventually pick up the soap bubble once I have a lot more data.

Secondly, the California Nebula. Never tried this one seriously becuase ive never had a camera big enough. But its turned out quite well for the small amount of subs ive used. I might start that one again with the camera rotated so I can get all of it in.

Crescent nebula:

8x900 Ha, OIII

California nebula:

6x900 Ha

80ED, Atik 383L+, NEQ6

Thanks for looking :)

Rob

10599179754_bd2049107d_b.jpg
 

10598891906_2beb83bb94_b.jpg
 

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Cheers :)

Theyre just quickies at the moment, but im quite interested in chasing the california nebula as its unexplored territory for me. I think that would be a cracker in HST format.

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Mmm, yummy!!! Loving them both. Cane that OIII on the crescent and all sorts of really interesting things start to appear!

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Cheers Sara, I was originally looking for the soap bubble in Ha and then wondered why it was nowhere to be seen! However, In the OIII stack it's outline just starts to register - so yep, loads more OIII is needed (possibly at least 4 or 5 hours worth).

Ive got some faster optics incoming next week, so I might be able to make some progress on this tricky little blighter :)

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Nice California nebula.  Looks has a lot of structure there, may be I need to make 25 panes mosaic with it;)

Good luck with OIII

Mark

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Thanks Mark, I'll probably go back to the California neb with the new optics. I had the 0.9x coma corrector arrive today, and will be getting the modded 130PDS on Monday. Combined together they will give a healthy f4.5, which will cut exposure times in half. So I can choose to go deeper, or reduce the sub times and go for weight of numbers. Its only cost me £200 in total, so I think this would represent fantastic value for money if I can throttle a good image out of it.

Monday/Tuesday is supposed to be clear, so I will set it up for testing and hopefully I can get a result from the first session (if im careful in my preparation).

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Thanks Mark, I'll probably go back to the California neb with the new optics. I had the 0.9x coma corrector arrive today, and will be getting the modded 130PDS on Monday. Combined together they will give a healthy f4.5, which will cut exposure times in half. So I can choose to go deeper, or reduce the sub times and go for weight of numbers. Its only cost me £200 in total, so I think this would represent fantastic value for money if I can throttle a good image out of it.

Monday/Tuesday is supposed to be clear, so I will set it up for testing and hopefully I can get a result from the first session (if im careful in my preparation).

monday and tuesday was supposed to be clear, but now you've bought new gear :grin:

loving the california ha btw :smiley:

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The detail in the California nebula is awesome Rob! Does it fit all in the chip of the 383 with the 80 ED?

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The detail in the California nebula is awesome Rob! Does it fit all in the chip of the 383 with the 80 ED?

Cheers :) Yeah, it will fit in quite comfortably if the camera is rotated by 90 degrees. But I only rotate when I know my next few projects are going to be rotated as well (eg: M45 requires rotatation)

So what faster optics have you ordered ?

Its an experiment im attempting with a 130pds (arriving Monday), already pre-modded and tweaked for imaging. I'll be running it at f4.5 with the SW CC, so its double the speed im at now. An irresistable speed for the price. The focal length will be just 75mm more than what im at now (80ED=510, 130pds=585), so no big loss in FOV and the sampling rate is a more-than-acceptable 1.9" p/p.

If it works as expected, im going to take the mods further and see if its possible to make baffles for it - as well as properly blacken the inside and attach a fan and internal/external thermometer. Ive done a bit of digging for images and what ive seen so far is that it seems to give good corner stars on a DSLR, so with the smaller 8300 chip I should be getting similar results.

It will also enable me to properly weight my sub times across RGB without it taking ages (I like to have plently of Blue) - first I will try 1:1:1.5, which would translate to something like 8/8/12min (RGB) - on the 80ED that would be 16/16/24min (a lifetime in comparison).

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Rob, your new set-up sounds very promising and I like the way you've thought this through and weighed up what it will offer. Interesting that you like to have lots of blue and a ratio in favour of this channel - do you find though that there is more star bloat with blue than the R or G? If so, how do you deal with this?

As for your posted images here, I think they are excellent, you've achieved a nice balance of detail in both without overdoing it - really nice outcomes for both. 

Martin

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Martin-Devon, on 02 Nov 2013 - 10:58 AM, said:

Rob, your new set-up sounds very promising and I like the way you've thought this through and weighed up what it will offer. Interesting that you like to have lots of blue and a ratio in favour of this channel - do you find though that there is more star bloat with blue than the R or G? If so, how do you deal with this?

As for your posted images here, I think they are excellent, you've achieved a nice balance of detail in both without overdoing it - really nice outcomes for both. 

Martin

Thanks Martin,

Im going to be giving it plenty of blue becuase thats the channel I always seem to be pushing (and OIII for that matter). The 383 seems a bit less sensitive in blue compared to my old camera, so if I give it more at the capture stage, im hoping it will be easier in processing.

To push the blue/OIII and not totally ruin the stars ive been using noels actions to reduce the star size in the blue channel before combining to RGB. Its not perfect, but it works (usually).

Edited by Uranium235

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These are nice images. As Sara says, the OIII will surprise you on the Crescent. The California is fluffy. That, too, is good on OIII.

Olly

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These are nice images. As Sara says, the OIII will surprise you on the Crescent. The California is fluffy. That, too, is good on OIII.

Olly

Thanks Olly :)  Does OIII on the California add structure? If it doesnt, I may stay with using Ha as Lum . But if it does add structure, then I think I may need equal (or more) exposures in OIII, create a combined Lum master, then add the colour last.

Im almost tempted to go back to the crescent and capture the additional data with the new optics, then use the magic of registar to merge the whole lot together. Hopefully, that would be enough to get the soap bubble to appear. If i remember rightly, I ended up doing exactly that (except with a 150P) last time while I was chasing that OIII envelope around the crescent.

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They are great images loads of detail in both.Can just start to see some of the outer shell in the crescent

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