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a remote unmanned pico observatory

Gonzo

By Gonzo
in DIY Observatories

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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43 minutes ago, Gina said:

You mean it has built-in image capture?  Capable of doing an imaging run of say 100 subs of 120s?

yes it does, everything you need (except coffee :(...). It's quite an advanced software now.

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Gonzo
Gonzo

A video is worth a gazillion words..... please be patient, the video is 2m46s long, there is a delay after the lid opens up and the telescope deploys. (the thumbnail picture was taken with my GF1 an

Gonzo
Gonzo

Some further progress. After battling with a silly issue with my Raspberry B+ (yeah, don't upgrade to the latest firmware... it breaks stuff...) I am now able to move forward with the automation. Here

Gonzo
Gonzo

I've managed to reach focus this evening. This is HD 231061 (the bright one) unguided, 300 sec exposure. http://nova.astrometry.net/user_images/756460#annotated

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  • 2 weeks later...
Gonzo

Gonzo

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So I'm currently re-designing the new box, a slightly more compact one (this is not for my widefield project previously mentioned).

Can't make my mind up if I build out of aluminium profiles (also known as aluminium extrusions or t-slot) or traditional wood. Some examples (full size obs) at http://rolloffobservatory.com/ 

Just not 100% convinced about the weatherproof of such box. The cost involved is also quite a lot higher than wood.

Or maybe, I could build the frame out of wood and with ACM panels (aluminium composite panels) for walls.

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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I was talking to someone I know and he told me today: I've started to anodise some aluminium parts. Conversation got on-going and then I remembered the following below picture.

Check out the bottom leg and also the second one.

ed%20reap%202.jpg

 

wood might be a better option after all...

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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Today's trip to a proper timber merchant is way better than B&Q.... they have all the wood you can dream off to build anything and they can cut absolutely anything.

Bought a saw (lost my good one :( ), proper screws and some wood glue at the same time.

After crawling YouTube looking at shed building, box building and other stuff made of wood videos I've tackled my new box. Built the base, used WAY less screws than before, and it's stronger. Just by using the right method.

 

One challenge is that I am downsizing the box and it also has to be flat packed for easy transport AND must fit in the car.... no pressure... lol

Stay tuned, new box will soon be up.

 

As for the lid of this box, can't make up my mind if I go flat of more like a real roof to avoid having some standing water on top.

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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a sneak peek of the new box... (still a work in progress...)

The pier has been shorten by 10 cm, the box has a foot print of 90cm by 95cm (about the same as the previous box), the height has yet to be set but it should not be more than 70cm (give or take a cm or two, was about 90cm or so before).

It's going to be a roll on roof, mounted on telescoping rails. Outside walls will be ACM panels, then a breathable membrane then the inside walls of the box will be 5 mm plywood.

My tried and tested simple ventilation system will be put back, with some improvements. I did notice that the solar powered fan vent wasn't running at all on overcast days despite having a battery (I will sort this out).

IMG_7454.JPG

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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Just now, gnomus said:

That is looking very compact.  The rig seems to be poking up just a little high though - will your sliding roof definitely clear it?  Maybe its just the angle the photo was taken at.

The scope is above the main part of the box yes, the sliding mini roof will be clearing it. One side of the box will have a raised wall. The mini roof will have a 3 sided wall if you know what I mean.

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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Hi Patrik,

I've never had any condensation issues (there was a big water leak due to a design flaw... but that's a difference story lol), the key really is air flow. There is an opening at the bottom (vent) and a solar powered fan at the top.

This creates a constant airflow, removing any moisture. My box has been up for a while, dry, no issues on any metal parts within the box.

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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Just an update on the new box.

IMG_7470.JPG

 

I've added the floor, the internal side walls and I'm currently busy working on the lid. I will keep it simple and follow roughly the old one (minus the flaws from last time...lol).

Still LOTS and LOTS to do....

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Magnus_e

Magnus_e

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19 minutes ago, Gonzo said:

Just an update on the new box.

IMG_7470.JPG

 

I've added the floor, the internal side walls and I'm currently busy working on the lid. I will keep it simple and follow roughly the old one (minus the flaws from last time...lol).

Still LOTS and LOTS to do....

Looking good!

Just wonder. At some point I will be upgrading to a cdd and filter wheel. How much more space do the filter wheel take? From the picture it looks like the filter wheel is mostly using space towards the centre witch is not a issue. Does it build outwards making the radius of the rig bigger in any way, or is it only making the (scope) part longer... Or is it in fact so compact in the connection that it simply replaces the thickness of a T ring?

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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Here's a picture from above, hard to show the tolerance between the rig and the wall but believe when I say: it fits without touching anything...

I do have to place the all lot (telescope, focuser, wheel) in a certain position to make it all fit in my ultra compact box...

IMG_7471.JPG

 

Currently I have the Starlight Xpress USB Filter Wheel, there is the Zwo wheel which is a lot more compact than this one. And I've also hinted on the forum indilib that an Indi driver for it would be good to have, it's in dev at the moment I believe.

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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Just now, gnomus said:

Looking very good.

Have you any idea how much the new box will have cost you once it's all done?  Who needs a shed, eh?

Steve

 

So far about £120 : wood, screws + a new saw, wood glue, breathable membrane.

It's going to cost me about £100 in aluminium composite panels, I have all of the current electronic but I will be adding/changing some, I will also be getting a new power supply and a few minor things.

 

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Magnus_e

Magnus_e

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Looks like my dslr would extend as far as the filter wheel, but that the ccd only builds backwards and not much out from the center. I have my 50mm guide scope piggy backed with huge thumb screws. As thats the point with the largest radius, I do think I could hav fitted your FW and ccd to my rig :)

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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Just now, Magnus_e said:

Looks like my dslr would extend as far as the filter wheel, but that the ccd only builds backwards and not much out from the center. I have my 50mm guide scope piggy backed with huge thumb screws. As thats the point with the largest radius, I do think I could hav fitted your FW and ccd to my rig :)

Your box is bigger I believe. Internal dimensions are: 80cm W , 85cm L , 48cm H (that's without the lid, but you can add about 12cm or so...)

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Gonzo

Gonzo

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still work in progress...

 

I was going for a sliding roof however after contacting the manufacturer for the sliding rails, the one that I wanted is way too expensive. So I went back to my original design.

Only 1 actuator in the video, I will install the second one another day, this is more for testing than anything else. Wanted to achieve a 90deg opening, but I can't seem to get this right :(

oh yeah, there is a remote control.

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Magnus_e

Magnus_e

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Does the QHY5 work well with indi for you? I have the rebranded Orion SSAG, and have some issues.

Due to time limitations I have not been able to test it in good conditions with indi, always poor pa or something else wrong, so have been using LinPHD2 (or is it LinPHD), witch is not so picky.

Have tested a lot in simulation, but it almost always fails to calibrate. Using 'Pulse CMD' in celestron_gps seems to help, but the real test will bee (soon?), when everything is installed.

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