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Andromeda LRGB

Uranium235

By Uranium235
in Imaging - Deep Sky

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Uranium235

Uranium235

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How hard can it be to get colour into M31? Harder than it first seems!

I had a few good hours worth of Lum for this so I thought "ah, just 40 min worth per channel will do". How difficult was it to get that data? Extremely! It seems every time I use RGB filters I get cloud damage or gradients - like im jinxed or something! So to even things out I might have to find a way to put a CCD CLS filter before the reducer or before the filter wheel.... or perhaps on the CCD window? Not sure whether that would cause reflections, but it would probably increase exposure times slightly.

Processing the RGB was long-winded becuase of muliple gradients across all three colour channels, but I eventually found a way to remove the colour gradients without killing the colour in the galaxy (layer masks to the rescue.... again!).

M31: Andromeda

24x450 L, 6x300 R/G, 8x300 B

80ED (0.85x), NEQ6, Atik 383L+

Thanks for looking! :)

Rob

10232836363_a6cec1a3df_b.jpg
 

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Uranium235

Uranium235

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Thanks guys :)

Perhaps a less gradient prone way to push this one forward would be to add some Ha for sparkly bits.

In regard to the colour, I think its time I did a G2V calibration to find our exactly what the RGB exposure values should be. As at the moment any RGB exposure length/numbers have been based on what I would have used with my old camera, the 383 seems to require more blue.

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lensman57

lensman57

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Thanks guys :)

Perhaps a less gradient prone way to push this one forward would be to add some Ha for sparkly bits.

In regard to the colour, I think its time I did a G2V calibration to find our exactly what the RGB exposure values should be. As at the moment any RGB exposure length/numbers have been based on what I would have used with my old camera, the 383 seems to require more blue.

Hi,

Depending on which software you are using you may wish to do a colour balance using the galaxy as a whole to get the calibration right.

A.G

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Uranium235

Uranium235

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Hi,

Depending on which software you are using you may wish to do a colour balance using the galaxy as a whole to get the calibration right.

A.G

Thanks all! :)

I do have the whitecal Ps plugin, but havent thought to give it a try recently. However, I would like to get the correct exposure values so I can balance the colour during capture. It might also help me guesstimate the exposure values for Ha and OIII (Ha being red and OIII being halfway between green and blue), as I also suspect additional exposure is required for OIII - but not as much as blue (from what im reading from the 8300 QE graph).

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Uranium235

Uranium235

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Wow, outstanding image!!  I hope to be able to capture something like that in the future!  I already have the 80ED, now I just need a better CCD camera!  (I've been eyeing the Atik cameras!)

Cheers,

Paul.

Thanks :)

Get an Atik camera, you wont be disappointed! However, with an 80ED (reduced) you might end up doing a mosaic with M31 with the cameras that contain sony sensors. With my old 314, it took 4 panes to cover this one!

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Uranium235

Uranium235

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cracking image. Colours look pretty spot on to me. Think your right, just a little Ha and your right in business. 

Thanks! It will be fun adding the Ha, but Im not going to try and take it back to basics when blending it in. I stand a chance of wrecking it if I try to combine from scratch, so I'll try and slip the Ha into the fully processed version, then add the Lum once again (perhaps with a few more exposures for good measure).

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Uranium235

Uranium235

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Right, I managed to get a couple of hours outside last night to bag some Ha. The sky wasnt great and there was a full-ish moon not too far away, but background levels didnt matter in this case since it was only the sparkly bits in M31 that I was interested in.

Andromeda - with sparkly bits:

(added 10x600 Ha)

10334652355_cc08eff1ce_b.jpg

Fullsize here:

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/10334652355_ed8a2093c6_o.jpg
 

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