Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
I have a Motor drive for the 130EQ and when I attach and switch it on it drives the RA axis. But once its attached its very difficult to move the OTA in the RA axis manually. Am I missing something? Is there a way to easily couple & decouple the motor so the OTA can be moved manually?
Is there someone who uses one of these motors who can help me pls.
Hi everyone - juts purchased my first telescope and am asking for advice on what is best to be seen through this telescope as a starter - have already seen the moon and some distant stars and am comfortable with using all of the eye pieces included. What would anyone recommend?
I’m attempting to get back into astronomy, previously owned a 150pl reflector but parted company with it several years ago, I like the idea of a Cassegrain style as one of the big factors Of letting the 150pl go. was storage and transportation of It! I am interested in mostly visual observations but would look to take a few pictures here and there OF planets and easy nebula/DSO., I feel that a Schmidt-Cassegrain would be the best suited, my main stumbling point is should I get the 5 or 6 version. Is the 6 under mounted? And is it worth the extra cash, obviously there’s a higher light gathering power on the 6 but would it be much better than the 5, I see that the % of lens obstruction on the seems high! As the secondary mirror looks to be the same size on both 40% vs 14%! Obstruction by area. Any guidance would be very appreciated. I’m not against the idea of upgrading the mount in the future to a eq5 maybe? But want in usable to start with.
A question for all you Starsense users out there ...
When I do an auto align with Starsense, it duly goes through it's routine of moving the scope to different star targets and resolves each one fine (5 targets I believe). Then it displays on the handset "StarSense Ready".
At this point the telescope tube is always pointing in some random direction - is this how yours behaves after it finishes alignment ? Just pointing at the last star it used as a target reference ?
At this point I usually set my scope to go to it's "HOME" position, but whenever I "GOTO" a target it is never in the scopes eyepiece and I have to manually hunt around for it. (Using a wide angled eyepiece).
Should I just "GOTO" a target without going to "HOME" position first, or should it not matter ?
NB - All this after precise Polar Alignment using Polemaster.
Grateful for your input
I've never had any success with my C9.25 when trying to get DSO's. I've seen images other people have taken and they have good round stars. I can never get these.
I've tried collimating the best that I possibly can, and adding the Celestron f/6.3 focal reducer but I still can't get round stars. I could understand it if the stars at the edges had comma, but the stars near the centre are showing comma too.
I've changed my back focus both in and out to no real difference, I'm just wondering what I'm doing wrong?
I took the two attached images last night. One shows my out of focus star from the camera, and the other image shows an integration of 120 x30 sec subs of M63 Sunflower Galaxy. The camera is an ASI 1600mm Pro. These are both full frame, not cropped.
When I've plate solved the individual frames for M63 they give a focal length of 1483mm. 1480mm would be f6.3 on this scope, which the focal reducer is supposed to give indicating my back focus spacing is about correct.
One thing I have noticed is that on the focus star the rings are concentric and clean, but the small reflections inside the smaller ring are not central. Is this normal for an SCT? I'd have thought the central reflections would be centred too.
I've wondered if the star comma was down to guiding errors, but would a 30 sec sub-frame show this much error? Incidentally, my guiding last night was the best I've ever had and I don't think it was down the guiding. When I use my refractor (although shorter focal length) the stars are perfectly round with this mount - NEQ6.
A few years ago I removed the secondary mirror to remove a large dark mark from it which was obscuring my views (it was a fleck of black paint from the inside of the tube). When I removed the secondary, I accidentally rotated it when unscrewing. Would this make a difference? I know that the corrector plate shouldn't be rotated, and wondered is it was the same with the secondary? I've searched online but can't find an answer to that.
I love this scope, but hardly use it nowadays because of the image quality.
Hope someone can offer some helpful advise.