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have i got the colors right?


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i seem to struggle to get the colors right in my pics, in DSS after stacking i line up the RGB peaks the best i can till i get a grey peak but there always seems to be too much of 1 color, mainly green or purple? but this 1 seemed to have too much blue.

post-31022-0-35853700-1375649237_thumb.j

this was taken with a nexstar6 se, eos1100d unmod@prime focus on alt az mode. stacked 232 subs of 20s with 40 darks and 40 bias, also converted the raws to tiffs as DSS dosnt seem to like 1100d raws, if i look at the subs in dss it looks as tho they have been taken uder a purple light? but with tiffs they seem fine.

once again any help, opinions, advice would be grateful.

thx

Adz.

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i seem to struggle to get the colors right in my pics, in DSS after stacking i line up the RGB peaks the best i can till i get a grey peak but there always seems to be too much of 1 color, mainly green or purple? but this 1 seemed to have too much blue.

post-31022-0-35853700-1375649237_thumb.j

this was taken with a nexstar6 se, eos1100d unmod@prime focus on alt az mode. stacked 232 subs of 20s with 40 darks and 40 bias, also converted the raws to tiffs as DSS dosnt seem to like 1100d raws, if i look at the subs in dss it looks as tho they have been taken uder a purple light? but with tiffs they seem fine.

once again any help, opinions, advice would be grateful.

thx

Adz.

looks about right to me, what you are missing are the reds and with such short exposure and a DSLR, even a modded one with long exposure, it is to be expected. Try the Beta version of the DSS for the canon raw file, I have a 1000d and it seems to be fine with it, I know there has been some posts regarding the CR2 problems with DSS and 1100d. I personally think that it is a miracle you have any colour at all with 20s exposure.

A.G

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It looks quite OK, especially for such short exposures.

But i find it a bit too much towards deep purple though. It lacks red, but that's not surprice with such short exposures on a DSLR.

Should try to fix a bit on the color balance, and it's a quite nice capture. :)

Also, did you take any flats? I can see quite a bit of vignetting there, wich flats shuold take care of. Will make processing a lot more easy.

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I could say that it's not perfect but I think that would be grossly unfair (and what is perfect anyway?).

What I will say is that with what you are working with (alt/az, f10, unmodded camera etc) you have done an absolutely brilliant job here. Sometimes I think we've got to be careful not to compare our work with the big boys (and girls). Don't get me wrong, we all need something to aspire to, but lets judge an image on its merits., and in doing so, this one's gotta be a 9/10 :).

Edit:- I say 9/10 because I don't think anyone is ever 100% happy with an image... it's what pushes you forward

Edited by auspom
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The colours look like the ones I got with my SLR. You shouldn't need to tweak the colour curves in DSS. Set DSS to generate a custom white balance during processing, and that should align the colour channels automatically for you.

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thankyou for the kind words all very much appreciated, i thought there was too much purple but its nice to get comfirmation from the experts lol, forgot to mention this was at ISO1600 as well and focused with just live view and no flats (never tried them yet).

thx for the tip jgs i will give that a go, ive been using the camara white balance in dss.

probably gonna grab another session of 20s just to see wot happens but apart from the colour this is prob my best pic so far.

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thankyou for the kind words all very much appreciated, i thought there was too much purple but its nice to get comfirmation from the experts lol, forgot to mention this was at ISO1600 as well and focused with just live view and no flats (never tried them yet).

thx for the tip jgs i will give that a go, ive been using the camara white balance in dss.

probably gonna grab another session of 20s just to see wot happens but apart from the colour this is prob my best pic so far.

If you want you can put the original stack in Dropbox, no stretching, colour correction or crop. I see what could be done with it , I have a feeling that you have more data there . Once you have put in DropBox then post link here.

A.G

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hi lensman thankyou for your time in playing with it u seemed to manage to get the right colours so they must be in there somewhere lol. i had another quick go last night but again theres either too much green or too much purple and nothing inbetween so clearly im not doing it right, oh and this is just in DSS i havent played with it in cs3 as ive been trying to get it the best i can in DSS first.

p.s this was 40 darks in total, first night was 160 lights @ 15s 20 darks n 20 bias iso1600, second night was 200 lights @ 20s 20 darks and 20 bias iso1600, all converted to tiff and DSS stacked 239 frames

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hi lensman thankyou for your time in playing with it u seemed to manage to get the right colours so they must be in there somewhere lol. i had another quick go last night but again theres either too much green or too much purple and nothing inbetween so clearly im not doing it right, oh and this is just in DSS i havent played with it in cs3 as ive been trying to get it the best i can in DSS first.

p.s this was 40 darks in total, first night was 160 lights @ 15s 20 darks n 20 bias iso1600, second night was 200 lights @ 20s 20 darks and 20 bias iso1600, all converted to tiff and DSS stacked 239 frames

dss is a great piece of software and does it's primary job very well (stacking) but for post processing you really need to leave that to the big boys (photoshop) of course this is my personal opinion and others are within their rights to disagree.. they'd be wrong but they've got that right ;)
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theres either too much green or too much purple and nothing inbetween so clearly im not doing it right

What i do in these cases is this:

With histogram on in PS, in RGB color mode on the histogram (on one combined histogram), i adjust the curved and/or levels so they line up.

If it's for example still too green after the colors are lined up, i adjust it down with curves and then align the colors again.

You also have a plugin for PS at least called "hasta la vista green" wich can be very useful for the green part. Use it with care as it can often take away too much though.

DSS is great for stacking, and rough color alignment and levels adjustments, but for the final pic you're not reallt going anywhere without a seperate processing program like PS, GIMP or similar.

DSS is really just to instantly get a quick preview of teh stacked result to see if it's any good or if you need to restack with different settings.

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hi all, i have had another go at it and also messed about with it in cs3 and this is my final image, i think its better than the first and probably the best im gonna get it, not great but im pretty happy with it.

post-31022-0-40337800-1375814763_thumb.j

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I can't really see the image well on my phone at the moment. However a couple of things. Are you converting your raw data into tif files before loading into dss ?? If you can it's best to use the raw files directly and not convert them first. When you're stacking multiple sessions worth of data, you need to use the groups in dss. When you add any image file to dss, it will, to start with be loaded into the master group. And a new group tab , group 1 will appear at the bottom. You want to load all you data from session 1 into group 1. All from session 2 into group 2 and so on. Be careful with the master group. Any callibration frames in the master group are applied to all groups images. So prob best to empty the master group of Iowa and only use the numbered groups at this point.

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hi all, i have had another go at it and also messed about with it in cs3 and this is my final image, i think its better than the first and probably the best im gonna get it, not great but im pretty happy with it.

post-31022-0-40337800-1375814763_thumb.j

The misstake you've done here is clipping in the black level. You've cut away much of the data in the fain areas. While the background will look more, if not completly black like this, it's very easy to ruin the picture by making it look "overcooked". I recommend to be very careful a bout cutting into the black levels. Use curves instead, where you can drag it very low, while still not cutting away a lot of data at the same time. :)

Personally i like your first one the best, but as you haven't taken flat frames to calibrate for vignetting, it's almost impossible to fix the background into an even dark sky without cutting a lot of details. It's better to leave the pic a tiny bit gray and with details, then to make it pitch black, but cut away a lot of details in the same process. :)

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ok slightly changed it again in cs3 lol

post-31022-0-26471300-1375821602_thumb.j

HI,

Had a little play with it tonight as I had a bit time, is a little more subtle I think but that is all there is to it, I can't get anymore detail out.

Thanks and good luck,

A..G

post-28808-0-59876300-1375922490_thumb.p

Edited by lensman57
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  • 5 months later...

Hi all sorry for bringing up an old post but I was thinking about getting a 6.3 focal reducer for my nexstar6 still in alt az mode. Would this improve the quality of this image?, obviously i wld have to retake all my subs again etc and also how much wld the galaxy decrease in size? Also wot exposure time cld I expect to get from it ( I'm currently at 15s with 50% of my subs being stackable)

Thx again people

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