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Atik 314L+ mono: thick black lines...?


Mak One
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I use the ArtemisCCD capture software and Dawn for processing. Usually run at -5C but during my last imaging run I set the cooler to -10C and ran for the best part of 2 hours with no problems. Then I got several of the following frames, with varying but increasing thicknesses of black bands across the image, until it was all black (bitmap of FIT sub):

post-12224-0-98030600-1369675376_thumb.j

Disconnected and re-connected the camera (physically first with no effect, then via the software, which worked) and got a full image back. After a while I noticed noise in the frames and worked out that the cooler was off (happened when the software disconnect/re-connect). Switched it back on and got the same black lines back straight away. I run the camera and EFW off a 7Ah power tank and there seemed to be power to spare.

Any ideas? Fingers crossed it's not something terminal...?

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Agree with Guy, you need a good quality 2A, 12volt supply for this camera alone. Adding an EFW, I'd go for a 5amp supply to be on the safe side.

Regards, Colin

Edited by MickyWay
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Thanks for the prompt replies everyone. Checked all connections at the time - as I said, no effect until I reset using the software. Just run a daylight test with the Atik and the EFW from the fully charged power tank. Cooler display didn't want to register any changes at first. Re-installed the Atik software suite (as had a few glitches the other evening) and set it running. Cooled from 23C to -2C quite happily with full images each time. Ran a sequence with the EFW too and again, no problems. Been whirring away for an hour now - and been through several cooling/warming cycles too.

The issue I had was at the end of a session, and I thought it might be power at the time, but there were no flashing lights on the tank to say it was low (the low power warning flashing lights had happened before during a previous session without the problem occurring, but that was only at -5C set point, not -10C).

Time to upgrade the tank then... :rolleyes:

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I'm running all my kit except the mount off a 12v 15A PC PSU modified for the purpose with a 3 pin XLR connector (12v and 5v). The mount runs off a Maplin 7A (5A continuous) 13.8v bench PSU since these Synta mounts need well over 12v.

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Thanks Gina. I've been running the mount (CG5GT) from a PC PSU for a while now - no issues at all. (Got it from www.power-adapters.co.uk - the chap there knew zip about mounts but I gave him the Celestron spec for the supply and he came up with the goods - 1/2 or 1/3 the price of the same kit on astro sites.)

Do you have any links to the 12v 15A PC PSU and connector etc you mention please?

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Thanks Gina. I've been running the mount (CG5GT) from a PC PSU for a while now - no issues at all. (Got it from www.power-adapters.co.uk - the chap there knew zip about mounts but I gave him the Celestron spec for the supply and he came up with the goods - 1/2 or 1/3 the price of the same kit on astro sites.)

Do you have any links to the 12v 15A PC PSU and connector etc you mention please?

The PSU came out of a PC I'd finished using and stripped. The connector is a standard full size XLR obtained from ebay. I don't know what the current rating of them is but I would think they would handle up to maybe 10A but don't quote me on that - it's just an educated guess. They are very reliable professional connectors. The PSU is rated to supply up to 30A at 5v, 15A at 12v and various other voltages (like 3.3v, -5v etc.). PSUs designed for PCs are also readily available quite cheaply.

I found that the XLR chassis socket would fit in the hole where the large grommet fitted for the output cable with just a bit of filing out. I soldered two of the wires to each pin as appropriate and insulated the rest (having cut them short, of course). I also joined the green wire to one of the blacks to enable power-on. These could be connected to a switch on the front to provide an ON/OFF function as an alternative to switching off at the back.

Edited by Gina
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