Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_lunar_landings.thumb.jpg.b50378d0845690d8a03305a49923eb40.jpg

Superdavo

SkyWatcher Skymax 127 GOTO on a holiday?

Recommended Posts

Hi everybody!

My family want to go to Australia in the next couple of years, and I really want to take advantage of this opportunity to see the southern sky, and I want to take a scope. However, I can't possibly take my 150p, it's much too heavy, so I'll need another scope. I've been thinking about the SkyWatcher Skymax 127 goto, for several reasons:

1. It's light (approx 11kg)

2. It's compact

3. It would make a good secondary scope in the future, because it's good for planets, and nearly as large as my 150p in aperture

But I've been wondering, is 11kg too heavy? I mean, it will be a 3 week holiday, so there will be a lot of clothes to take up weight. And if it is, what could I take that's lighter?

Thanks for reading

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Although the exchange rate isn't favourable you could consider getting your scope when there so it saves at least one journey. Consider ordering online etc...and get it delivered to your hotel.

Just a thought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, it's Oz - buy 4 tee shirts and two pairs of shorts when you get there. Pass the clothes onto someone when you leave and then there's plenty of room for the scope.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Asghar
      Hi all,
       
      I'm pretty new to astronomy and need help deciding if I should buy the following telescope or not, mainly if there is anything visibly missing by looking at the photos?
       
      Thanks in advance!



    • By dragorom7
      Hello, i am new to this forum, i made my account here because i need help.
      So few weeks ago i ordered a USB to Serial cable to be able to Control my Telescope with my computer using stellarium.
      It arrived today.
      So i made my Star Alignment, then i plugged the cable to my Telescope and Computer, i installed the Cable driver and ASCOM Platform + ASCOM Celestron Driver.
      I started DriverConnect.exe and put the Celestron Driver i downloaded, and did the properties informations ( had to tick on "Advanced Setup" and "Show All COM Ports" ) and i put "COM8" on "COM Port", then i pressed "OK" and then "Connect"
      Result:
      Create              Creating device
      Connected           Connecting to device
      Error               System.Exception: Connect to COM1 failed, no Celestron scope detected
         to System.Dynamic.ComRuntimeHelpers.CheckThrowException(Int32 hresult, ExcepInfo& excepInfo, UInt32 argErr, String message)
         to CallSite.Target(Closure , CallSite , ComObject , Boolean )
         to ASCOM.DriverConnect.ConnectForm.btnConnect_Click(Object sender, EventArgs e) in C:\ASCOM Build\Export\ASCOM.DriverConnect\ConnectForm.cs:line 268
      Dispose             Disposing of device
      ReleaseComObject    Releasing COM instance
      ReleaseComObject    Completed release. Count: 0
      GC Collect          Starting garbage collection
      GC Collect          Completed garbage collection
       
      "Connect to COM1 failed, no Celestron scope detected"

      In Stellarium i set-up everything, the plug-in and restarted the app, then added my telescope  and i says it's "connected" but i can't find my telescope.
       
      Telescope:
      Celestron NexStar 127SLT
      The Cable i bought:
      https://www.amazon.com/Telescope-CP2102-Adapter-Control-Console/dp/B077G37VL1/
      PC Specs:
      Windows 10 Pro, GTX 970, 8GB Ram(DDR4), i7 6700 3.4Ghz
       
      Looking forward for your help, thanks in advance,
      dragorom7.
    • By LILYDENISE
      Hello everyone, happy Tuesday.
      First time stargazer here, I'm hoping I can get some awesome feedback from you guys. 
      my fiancé and I are planning on taking a trip to Great Basin National Park from October 25th-30th, we're trying to catch the new moon, we want to do some deep sky viewing but we're having such a hard time on knowing which kind of telescope to purchase. we do have a few must- haves on our purchase, but I wanted to see what you guys recommend and what your experiences have been.
      we need a telescope that is portable
      good for deep sky viewing
      reflector vs. refractor
      and almost, but not necessarily, easy to use (we have time to learn the ins and outs of it)
      I apologize if its a lot, but trying to understand the jargon, as of now, is giving me a hard time
      Cant wait for any responses!!
      p.s. anyone ever been to Great Basin? what should we expect on our trip? its our first time going and first time doing any serious camping!!!
      THANKS A BUNCH!!!
      -LILY 
    • By Wavseeker
      Ladies and gentleman, 
      Thank you for helping me in advance. 
      As a kid I've always been fascinated with the sky and what was in it. The nights sky is filled with beautiful stars and nebulae and I want to see them for myself and be amazed how insignificant we really are compared to this vast open space. So let me adress some of the key points that I want for a first scope.
      1. Around €1000
      2. Big aperture, I want to see as much as possible and as far as possible while not losing a clear image
      3. I would like to have a push to or go to system
      4. Beginner friendly
      5. Size is not a problem 
      8. I prefer reflectors since it seems they give more aperture for the money but if you know a better scope that sees more with less aperture let me know
      9. I have a Canon 550D and maybe I could use this for a bit of astrophotography. This is last on the list tho and can be scrapped if the first 3 points aren't met
      Of course build quality is very important when making my choice so keep that in mind as well.
      I'm looking forward to you guys advice. 
       Happy stargazing and clear skies! 
    • By orfest
      [A few more photos are in the imgur album]
      Made this telescope for observing sunspots. The Sun gets projected onto a piece of paper after bouncing from 3 mirrors inside the frame.

      It's compact, light, takes only a few seconds to point at the Sun, and sketching sunspots is as easy as circling the spots on a piece of paper.

      It can even project the Moon:

      The design is inspired by a commerically available telescope, but I’ve done all the designing myself, just for the fun of it.
      Sunspotter is full of little details that make it interesting. How do you fix the eyepiece in the exact place where it needs to be? How do you keep the lens in place and perfectly aligned?
      Building the telescope was a lot of fun, I’ve learned to use a jigsaw, X-Carve and a 3D printer. The plan is to use it to complete the Astroleague Sunspotter Observing Program, but unfortunately I completed it at the minimum of a Sun cycle, and won’t see any sunspots until next year.
       
      Telescope parameters:
      Magnification: 75x Size: 41cm x 41cm x 15cm Weight: 1kg Design: Keplerian Projection size: 75mm Materials needed:
      Lens: Ø52mm f=750mm achromatic doublet Mirrors: 1, 2, 3 Eyepiece: Baader 10mm ortho 1.5m² of 10mm plywood Wooden glue 5m of PLA filament 12 nails Compressed air Isopropyl alcohol Tools I used:
      Jigsaw with a 30° bevel capacity X-Carve 1000 3D printer A laser pointer Clamp Learned modelling basics in:
      LibreCAD Easel TinkerCAD Fusion 360  
      Part 1: Choosing the lens
      The idea of a sunspotter is that the light goes through the lens, travels inside the telescope, bouncing from 3 mirrors, enters an eyepiece and the image gets projected on one of its sides.
      The distance the light travels before entering an eyepiece is the focal length and it determines the size of the telescope.
      I chose a Ø52mm f=750mm achromatic double. Observing the Sun doesn’t require a large aperture, 50mm is more than enough. I wanted a high magnification and went for the longest focal length I could find, which was 750mm. Achromatic doublet design is what people use in refractors. If it is good enough for a refractor, it’s definitely good enough for my project.
       
      With the focal length chosen I could design the wooden parts. A drawing showed that the frame needed to have sides 30cm long, but I wasn’t sure about the placement of the mirrors and went for 31cm sides, planning to shorten the light path as needed by adjusting mirror positions.
      This is the LibreCAD drawing of the layout of parts on a piece of plywood:

      Part 2: Building the base
      Having a drawing of the base in LibreCAD, I printed the drawing 1:1 scale on multiple A4 sheets of paper and glued them together. I transferred the drawing to a piece of cardboard and cut it out.

      Applied this cardboard template to the sheet of plywood, and cut out two parts with a jigsaw.. I’m not an experienced user of jigsaw, and couldn’t manage to cut half-circles accurately enough. Even worse was that the two parts were very different. I didn’t want the frame to randomly tilt left or right when adjusting its altitude, and had to spend a lot of time with sandpaper to make the halves as similar as I could.
       
      Glued the two large parts with three small parts in the middle. Additionally nailed the parts and the base was ready.
       
      Part 3: Frame
      The frame is simply a triangle made of three pieces, with short sides cut at a 30° angle. Most jigsaws can cut at 45°, but not at 30°. Had to buy a new jigsaw with a 30° bevel capacity.
      Cut out three sides, cut short sides at a 30° angle, but didn’t put them together just yet.
      The lens needs to be perfectly aligned with the Sun-facing part of the frame, otherwise the Sun projection isn't circular but elongated.
      My solution was to carve a hole with a little step as shown on the image.

      The inner hole is Ø46.5mm, the outer hole is Ø50.8mm.
      The outer hole is the exact size to let the lens fit, but with a little bit of friction. Had to carve several holes to find the minimal size the lens could fit in.
      The step is just large enough to have enough surface for the glue to keep the lens in place, I didn't want to reduce the aperture too much.
      I used an X-Carve for carving and Easel for modelling.
       
      With all 3 sides ready, I could assemble the frame. It appeared that my 30° angle cuts were not very precise, but after some sandpapering the sides started fitting together alright. Glued the parts together and left them to dry for a day. To apply some pressure on the joints, I wound several twine loops around the frame really tight, made sure all sides fitted well together and left it to dry like that for a day.

      Part 4: Mirrors
      When selecting mirrors I was looking for the smallest mirror that fit the cone of light. Small mirrors are a lot easier to place, and they let me better control the length of the light path. I considered using elliptic mirrors, but they were bulky and really hard to place. All mirrors are first surface mirrors, otherwise planning their locations would be a lot more confusing.
      This was my original plan of placing the mirrors:

      As you can see, all the angles and distances were carefully measured, and I wanted to simply make mirror holders of those exact dimensions. This was clearly a bad idea.
      I 3d-printed some parts like this:

      And only later I realized that the frame angles are not exactly 60°, and that there are drops of glue along the edges that don’t let me fit the pieces deep enough in the joint between the sides.
      I cut angles from all the mirror holders:

      After I put the first mirror in place I realized the angles are all wrong, and that I needed to re-do the holder. Separating the mirror from the holder was a huge pain, which resulted in an accident. The mirror fell off the desk and got damaged.

      Luckily, only the back side got damaged, the front side was still working:

      The final designs of mirror holders looks like this:

      The holes in the front surface let me apply pressure on the back of the mirror if I ever want to separate it from the holder. The recesses collect the excess glue to avoid mirror skewing when gluing them.
      All other holes are simply to save the filament.
       
      Part 5: Placing mirrors
      What I learned is that you can’t plan positions of several pieces with high precision and just hope that it all comes together. I needed a feedback about the precision of mirror positions.
      I used a laser pointer to verify mirror positions at each step.
      In the picture you can see that the laser is firmly set in a hole in another piece of wood, with layers of isolation tape on the tip of the laser pointer to make it stable. A clamp holds the piece of wood in place, ensuring that the laser ray goes in the same direction as a solar ray would. A crosshair of black thread at the center of the lens ensures the laser goes exactly through the center of the lens.


      When placing each mirror, I marked the spot where I expected the laser to end up. While gluing the mirror holder to the frame, I kept the laser as close to that spot as possible. If for some reason, the laser couldn’t hit the expected spot, I did my best with placing the mirror, and recalculated locations of the following mirrors.
      I saw the first sunspots after placing all the mirrors and simply holding an eyepiece in hand.

      Part 6: Eyepiece holder
      I tried eyepieces of different focal length and liked the picture I got with a 10mm eyepiece the most.
      An eyepiece needs to be in a very exact spot to produce a sharp image. At this point it was obvious that my frame doesn’t match the model, and that I didn’t even know what exactly was wrong with the frame. I didn’t want to rely on the model and moved forward with trial-and-error.
      I printed several parts to hold the eyepiece, with different eyepiece locations:

      The part in the photo was a total disaster. It needed quite a lot of filament, at the same didn’t have enough surface area to be glued to the frame, and not enough surface area to hold the eyepiece firmly.
      The next iteration was a lot better:

      This part has a lot more surface area, and needs less filament to be printed. I intentionally printed the hole for the eyepiece too small, and had to sandpaper it a little bit, to make the eyepiece stay firmly fixed.
      Adjusting the focus is done by sliding the eyepiece up and down until the Sun becomes a circle with well defined borders.
       
      Part 7: Dust
      All optical parts should be kept clean. Dust on the mirrors and the lens will make the image darker. Dust on the eyepiece will show up as artifacts on the projected image. Unlike sunspots, the artifacts will not move with the Sun. To clean the eyepiece I used compressed air. To clean the mirrors I used isopropyl alcohol.
       
      Part 8: Fire safety
      Don’t leave devices with magnifying lenses lying around. Once the Sun happened to be in such a spot that its light went right through the lens, burning through the cap of the eyepiece. Luckily, nobody was hurt and no other damage was done.

      Part 9: Future work
      Build quality of the base is very poor. The frame tilts sideways when adjusting its altitude despite all my efforts. I’d like to build a new base, but leave all the work to the machines. I already have a model for an X-Carve to make both base parts, compatible with my current frame:

      A notch along the edge of the half-circle should eliminate the tilt. The precision of the machining should make the base very stable. Maybe next year, when sunspots become a common daily sight, I’ll get to this project.
       
      Thank you for reading this far!
      I hope you enjoyed it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.