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Is the atik 383l the right choice


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Hi I know I've gone over this topic a few times now and I've had some really good feedback but I'm asking yet another question.

For a ccd novice is the mono atik 383l a good starter camera for me.

I do really like black and white shots so this is where I'll start.

I had checked the website that Let's you look at the camera/scope you have to see if there compatable and they look fine its a sw ed100 by the way and I'm intrested in dso.

All I'm really asking is. .... Would this camera be I little too hard for me to learn being a beginner or is it a good choice and a good camera to grow into short a speak.

Cheers kev

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It would be OK. Mono CCD imaging is a logical process and breaks down into separate activities none of which requires a planet sized brain.

It isn't the fastest camera in the world and your scope isn't the fastest scope in the world so you'd need longish exposures.

The chip does need darks but with set point cooling you make them up twice a year for given temps/exposure times. No big deal.

With the shutter you need to slow your flats down to a few seconds or the shutter will wipe a gradient onto the image.

Would I buy this camera myself? No, I'd spend a bit more on the 460 or spend a bit less and put up with the chip size of the 314L because I think the 8300 chip is sluggish unless you buy it in a very expensive camera with fancier electronics and cooling. But that's just me. I like to go deep when I image targets so speed is important to me.

Olly

http://ollypenrice.smugmug.com/Other/Best-of-Les-Granges/22435624_WLMPTM#!i=2277139556&k=FGgG233

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It would be OK. Mono CCD imaging is a logical process and breaks down into separate activities none of which requires a planet sized brain.

It isn't the fastest camera in the world and your scope isn't the fastest scope in the world so you'd need longish exposures.

The chip does need darks but with set point cooling you make them up twice a year for given temps/exposure times. No big deal.

With the shutter you need to slow your flats down to a few seconds or the shutter will wipe a gradient onto the image.

Would I buy this camera myself? No, I'd spend a bit more on the 460 or spend a bit less and put up with the chip size of the 314L because I think the 8300 chip is sluggish unless you buy it in a very expensive camera with fancier electronics and cooling. But that's just me. I like to go deep when I image targets so speed is important to me.

Olly

http://ollypenrice.s...39556&k=FGgG233

cheers olly you always come up with the goods on all of my threads so thanks for that but the 460 is out of my price range and i'm only a beginner so if your saying the 383l is a good camera but slow i'm cool with that i have more time than cash.

cheers Kev

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C

It would be OK. Mono CCD imaging is a logical process and breaks down into separate activities none of which requires a planet sized brain.

It isn't the fastest camera in the world and your scope isn't the fastest scope in the world so you'd need longish exposures.

The chip does need darks but with set point cooling you make them up twice a year for given temps/exposure times. No big deal.

With the shutter you need to slow your flats down to a few seconds or the shutter will wipe a gradient onto the image.

Would I buy this camera myself? No, I'd spend a bit more on the 460 or spend a bit less and put up with the chip size of the 314L because I think the 8300 chip is sluggish unless you buy it in a very expensive camera with fancier electronics and cooling. But that's just me. I like to go deep when I image targets so speed is important to me.

Olly

http://ollypenrice.s...39556&k=FGgG233

Olly can i also ask what exposure times are you thinking......? 10mins or 60 mins like i said time is on my side and as i would be shooting in mono for just the time being there's no rgb involved so good for e until i learn the ropes .

cheers Kev

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I found the 383 to be a good camera, FoV been one of my main points

This image was taken with one, but on a FSQ85 which even without a reducer is still pretty fast

Shame I never got the RGB... :(

post-6688-0-29792200-1363822103_thumb.jp

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I found the 383 to be a good camera, FoV been one of my main points

This image was taken with one, but on a FSQ85 which even without a reducer is still pretty fast

Shame I never got the RGB... :(

Hi Earl can i say if i get close to that quality of picture i'd be over the moon.

What was the exposure times on that shot.

cheers Kev

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I've got a 383L+ and 460ex.

I have been thinking about selling the 383L on and possibly getting a colour 460ex so that I can capture L + colour at the same time using a dual imaging rig... but I can't quite bring myself to let the 383L go...

The chip size and resolution are both lovely. The specs say that the 460 chip is more sensitive but with my scopes I honestly haven't seem massive amounts of difference (although in fairness I really haven't had wonderful skies on any occassion since I got the 460...

As Olly implies, you can get away without darks on the 460 to the extent that I really can't tell any difference with and without. The 383L does benefit from darks but I have posted images without them... And as Olly also says, it really isn't too much hassle shooting a dark library once or twice a year...

I've seen posts talking about how noisy the 383L is but that just isn't my experience. What I did find is that it is pretty fussy over power. It's essential to have a very good, (smooth and stable) power supply and I find I need to ensure that the power line is not part of a loom. I also use ferrite chokes. Otherwise I did sometimes get pretty bad noise...

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Well, Earl's Pleiades has shut me up on the subject of going deep! That is deep with a capital D. Hat's off. But, as he says, the FSQ is a fast and fabulous scope.

You asked about exposure times. It's best to expose for as long as your skyglow allows. From our dark site that's about as long as you like. Half an hour is easy even at F4. Local LP may well impose a much shorter limit. You have to try different exposure times from your site and choose the longest that work.

x6gas - interesting about the ferrite chokes. Noted. Thanks.

Olly

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I did try the ferrite chokes on the USB and power leads, I personally didnt see a visible difference, however as I could of been in a good position prior to trying them I have no real benchmark, so my observations are subjective at best.

To get the most from the 383 a Dark library and "Cosmetic Correctionm Harry Page Style in PI" works a treat and I DID notice a very satisfactory improvement.

The 383 does sit in a very sweet spot pixel size and chip size, it could be a better, (note I have not tried the QSI cameras with this chip if I was buying today a QSI with OAG / Filterwheel based upon a 383 chip would be a big contender from what I have read). but does give very good results when the appropriate techniques are used, which once you have the right work-flow is not really an issue (all automated in PI calibration scripts)

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Hi I know I've gone over this topic a few times now and I've had some really good feedback but I'm asking yet another question.

For a ccd novice is the mono atik 383l a good starter camera for me.

I do really like black and white shots so this is where I'll start.

I had checked the website that Let's you look at the camera/scope you have to see if there compatable and they look fine its a sw ed100 by the way and I'm intrested in dso.

All I'm really asking is. .... Would this camera be I little too hard for me to learn being a beginner or is it a good choice and a good camera to grow into short a speak.

Cheers kev

Dont want to complicate things further but the ED100 is a slow scope for AP @ f9, IMO you'd be better of with the faster ED80 @ f7.5.

Steve

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Dont want to complicate things further but the ED100 is a slow scope for AP @ f9, IMO you'd be better of with the faster ED80 @ f7.5.

Steve

I've got the skywatcher focal reducer for it so that speeds it up a bit F7.65 i think.

cheers Kev

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