Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b89429c566825f6ab32bcafbada449c9.jpg

Solar Viewing.


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm planning on buying some Baader AstroSolar film to use with my Skyhawk 114mm. I have the stock Skywatcher 10 and 25mm EP's and about to order a Vixen NPL 15mm. Will I be able to use all these EP's for a spot of solar viewing? Or are the two SW EP just going to melt? And what about the Vixen?

Sorry if it a newb question, I've never tried my hand at solar.

Cheers

Ras Skipper

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ras,

You will be fine to use any of those EPs. Nothing will melt as long as you have the Baader solar film securely fixed to the front of your scope. You are probably best to make full apperture filter, considering your size of scope. there are plenty of on-line guides, including plenty on SGL. The most impotant thing to remember is that the film needs to fully cover what ever apperture you choose and that it is securely attached.

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ras,

You will be fine to use any of those EPs. Nothing will melt as long as you have the Baader solar film securely fixed to the front of your scope. You are probably best to make full apperture filter, considering your size of scope. there are plenty of on-line guides, including plenty on SGL. The most impotant thing to remember is that the film needs to fully cover what ever apperture you choose and that it is securely attached.

Ian

Full aperture size as opposed to using that small port in the end cap right?

Thanks for the help. I'll go ahead and make my order!

Ras Skipper

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just be very careful with it Ras - I'd be less concerned about frying the equipment and more concerned about frying your eye - which can happen in a split second resulting in irreversible damage. Not trying to scare you but when used properly the sun can be very interesting to view.

Read the instructions thoroughly before using the filter film. Examine the film thoroughly for any pinhole perforations before using. I put on polarized sun glasses and look at the sun through the film to do that - any holes will be obvious and the film shouldn't be used.

Remove your finder scope or cover the front aperture with a spare piece of film. Make sure the film is firmly fixed in position and can't blow off in a sudden gust - and ensure it covers the entire aperture. Work out how you're going to find the sun (use some kind of solar finder) which can be surprisingly difficult at first.

Be sure that anyone else using your scope to view the sun is well supervised (eg kids or inexperienced friends who take a casual look while your back is turned). It can get hot - so wear a peaked hat that can be positioned to cover the side of your face or rig up adequate shading.

It can be as dangerous as plunging your hand in an acid bath - but just a few simple precautions will make for a safe, pleasant and fulfilling observing session. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made one last weekend and as long as you take time, it's not too difficult. It is also fascinating.

When in use, tape up or remove any finders etc. and tape on the sun filter to the scope. A breeze can simply blow it off and that's it - blind.

Typed by me on my fone, using fumms... Excuse eny speling errurs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lining up the tube on the sun can be difficult but there are things you can do to make it easier without having to use the finder scope. Stand back and look at the shadow the scope makes, as you line up closer on the sun that shadow will get smaller (as less of the tube is side on to the sun).

I made a simple finder for my 127Mak for use with solar film, like a rifle sight. I had a couple of pieces of thin aluminium sheet which I bent into L shapes. The short bit of each L is stuck to the ota with double sided tape, The rear piece has white paper stuck to the front and there's a small hole drilled through the centre of the front upright (the idea being that when the scope is lined up on the sun a bright spot of sunlight will fall on the white paper). A bit of experimentation showed about eight inches apart to give a good size of bright spot and when properly aligned I simply marked the spot with a pencil, after that it's just a matter of lining up the bright spot on the pencil mark each time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.