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GM1000HPS - Unboxing


perfrej

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Thanks Per, I was not aware of AGM type. I will definitively make sure I will buy AGM type, for both discharge immunity and half charge time.

Regarding the amphour, two 12V 20Ah batteries in series is 24V-20Ah, but one 12V 20Ah with a 12V-24V converter is 24V-10Ah. The converter is only a converter it cannot feed energy and energy is VxAh. In fact it will be less than 10Ah because the converter as any device cannot be perfect and will have loss.

Thanks,

Pedro

I would use a converter, as the 24v supply to the mount should be stabilised to prevent any unfortunate spikes/drops. But that is perhaps just me being too cautious?

Velvet

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Thanks Per, I was not aware of AGM type. I will definitively make sure I will buy AGM type, for both discharge immunity and half charge time.

Regarding the amphour, two 12V 20Ah batteries in series is 24V-20Ah, but one 12V 20Ah with a 12V-24V converter is 24V-10Ah. The converter is only a converter it cannot feed energy and energy is VxAh. In fact it will be less than 10Ah because the converter as any device cannot be perfect and will have loss.

Hi Pedro,

That is exactly the reason why I choosed 2x12V. The batteries are Panasonic LC-XC1222P ... and that gives plenty Ah for a night observation.

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I would use a converter, as the 24v supply to the mount should be stabilised to prevent any unfortunate spikes/drops. But that is perhaps just me being too cautious?

Velvet

There is never too caution. :laugh:

However there is nothing more stabilised than a battery, no noise or peaks at all. A converter as any electronic device can produce noise and peaks.

I think I will go both solutions. I will have two 12V batteries. Depending on the devices in use I may choose to split them or not between the batteries.

Also the reason to use two batteries is that in order to save weight, the batteries are mounted as counterweights for the mount, no dead weight here. And in order to balance I need two, one on each side. I will post a picture later.

Pedro

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There is never too caution. :laugh:

However there is nothing more stabilised than a battery, no noise or peaks at all. A converter as any electronic device can produce noise and peaks.

I think I will go both solutions. I will have two 12V batteries. Depending on the devices in use I may choose to split them or not between the batteries.

Also the reason to use two batteries is that in order to save weight, the batteries are mounted as counterweights for the mount, no dead weight here. And in order to balance I need two, one on each side. I will post a picture later.

Pedro

Would be interested in the picture. I have found that batteries drop voltage below what a mount likes to operate on over a period of time in use, so i use the official Baader converter for the GM1000 as they have tested it with the mount :)

Velvet

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When I'm in my backyard, I'm using the 220V->24V from Baader. The batteries are only used during star parties, when I'm not at home.

So 24V-22Ah is more than adequate for a night of observation.

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Ah,

Would be interested in the picture. I have found that batteries drop voltage below what a mount likes to operate on over a period of time in use, so i use the official Baader converter for the GM1000 as they have tested it with the mount :)

Velvet

Ah, with stability you mean the voltage does not drop with time (discharge). In that case you are right. I was thinking about noise and peaks.

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Wow Pedro ! Well done !

Thanks. You can see I am obsessed with weight.

That is why I want to know the exact weight of the 1000HPS.

And that is why although I am set on the 1000HPS it costs me so much to forget the Mach1 and AP1100 as they are much more weight effective. But in all other aspects the 1000HPS is so much better.

I am considering making some modifications on the 1000 HPS base plate, so that I can dismiss the other two plates.

Pedro

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That is a cool way to put the dead weight of the batteries to use! Excellent solution!

I wouldn't hit the GM1000 with the grinder, though ;) It is a mechanical beauty as it is. You could, however, theoretically and if you have a super flat surface on your pier, skip the two plates. That would give you poor stability when rotating the mount in Az for polar alignment, but that is a survivable problem.

I and a friend have just finished a set of four piers of which two will be used for GM2000, one most likely for a GM1000 and one for a Mesu 200, all to be packed together in a four-scope roll-off roof observatory to be constructed in June. The design has a very flat 250x250mm top surface with no obstacles. That could work without the plates but I will use them anyway...

/per

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