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What can you do with a 30 second sub?


Andyfx

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Here is my first effort with an 80mm Apo and LP filter, 30s at iso 800 using a panasonic GH2 m4/3 raw file, no noise reduction applied just masked stretch script in pixinsight

excuses : first effort, got the sensor to flattener hopelessly wrong by adding extra 20mm+ to the separation hence comma at edges and poor alignment

You see, this is exactly what I mean.

First effort, one sub, 3" scope with a DSLR slapped on the back, some technical errors lessons learned and you still have a picture like that to show for it.

To a non-imager this is just stonking! :shocked:

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You see, this is exactly what I mean.

First effort, one sub, 3" scope with a DSLR slapped on the back, some technical errors lessons learned and you still have a picture like that to show for it.

To a non-imager this is just stonking! :shocked:

Wow - that's good - would be interested to know exactly what kinds of things you did in photoshop to pull out all that detail...

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Wish they would bring back the EDIT function!! Apologies - responded on the wrong post previously.

Here's a 30sec image of M27 taken with the Canon 450D at 800 ISO.........original and 'Photoshopped ' versions.

Wow - that's good - would be interested to know exactly what kinds of things you did in photoshop to pull out all that detail...

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Nice that people are still finding this thread interesting. I think it's great seeing what your camera can pic up with a short exposure, and even more exciting when you realise what little details can be squeezed out in Photoshop.

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Just a comparison between a 30 second sub straight off the camera, and the same sub that has been stretched in Photoshop and had a slight colour boost applied.

This was only a quick stretch to show a bit more hidden detail, but with a stack the noise etc would be reduced and detail increased.

post-11563-0-05440700-1359483754_thumb.p post-11563-0-90936500-1359483812_thumb.p

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Here is a single 30s frame of a set taken with my Atik 314L+ and 5nm Ha filter on night before last (27th Jan 2013) "optimised" in Photoshop and saved full size as PNG for uploading here. Near enough full moon.

post-13131-0-25575600-1359485284_thumb.p

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Sorry I don't know the details of this image but It must be from the early 90's taken through my 6in Newtonian pointing an Olympus point and shoot Digital Camera through the eyepiece...probably!

Certainly under 30sec.

post-28650-0-71382500-1359485783_thumb.j

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Even I'm amazed with this one - 30s single sub at ISO800 through my 12" F2.9 scope EDIT- from my light polluted site.

Blimey who needs stacks when you can this detail from 1 shot - gotta luv F2.9 I guess

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I quite like f4 - just captured 60 odd 30s frames of OIII for the core of M42. Even single subs have a lot of detail - I'll post one shortly. This SMC Takumar 200mm f4 lens seems great :)

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One from my Widefield Period. :grin:

Canon 350D with Canon 90-300 telephoto lens @ 185mm,f5.6. 30sec exposure @ ISO800.

Not what you would call a spectacular image but at the time I was attempting a series of 'eyepiece views' showing what one might expect to see through your telescope rather than full colour long exposure images. This one is uncropped.

post-849-0-75607000-1359637603_thumb.jpg

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Well I played around with my new Mammut mono CCD camera on Wednesday night for the first time, and I was only doing single exposures on different objects to test it, and this is what I came up with

20 second exposure (it was quite low in the sky and there were streetlights quite close):

post-22441-0-42940800-1360308155_thumb.j

3 Second exposure (any more and the centre got blown out with light):

post-22441-0-36798300-1360308225_thumb.j

20 second exposure:

post-22441-0-83595400-1360308272_thumb.j

15 second exposure:

post-22441-0-25723300-1360308304_thumb.j

15 second exposure:

post-22441-0-43414300-1360308321_thumb.j

18 second exposure of M33:

post-22441-0-52665100-1360308357_thumb.j

I was quite impressed seeing as it was the first time I used the camera. I now need to take a range of exposures to stack and process :)

edit: I notice on longer exposures that I start getting a halo emanating from the centre of the image. I assume this must be something to do with the f3.3 reducer I am using? Anyone know why this happens and how I can get rid of it? It seemed to be more pronounced too when imaging something lower in the sky.

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Here is an single 30s frame of the Ring M57, taken almost a year ago when I just got into AP.

This pic was also on the BBC Sky At Night program late last year, the star party episode. Small claim to fame and encouraging nonetheless.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/astrocox/6959666050/in/photostream

6959666050_8af589009d_b_d.jpg

Equipment listed below. This is ISO 1600 Prime focus 30s unguided. Taken under a very dark sky and good seeing. Ash

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Well I played around with my new Mammut mono CCD camera on Wednesday night for the first time, and I was only doing single exposures on different objects to test it, and this is what I came up with

20 second exposure (it was quite low in the sky and there were streetlights quite close):

post-22441-0-42940800-1360308155_thumb.j

3 Second exposure (any more and the centre got blown out with light):

post-22441-0-36798300-1360308225_thumb.j

20 second exposure:

post-22441-0-83595400-1360308272_thumb.j

15 second exposure:

post-22441-0-25723300-1360308304_thumb.j

15 second exposure:

post-22441-0-43414300-1360308321_thumb.j

18 second exposure of M33:

post-22441-0-52665100-1360308357_thumb.j

I was quite impressed seeing as it was the first time I used the camera. I now need to take a range of exposures to stack and process :)

edit: I notice on longer exposures that I start getting a halo emanating from the centre of the image. I assume this must be something to do with the f3.3 reducer I am using? Anyone know why this happens and how I can get rid of it? It seemed to be more pronounced too when imaging something lower in the sky.

These are quite impressive for such short exposures. Technology we could only have dreamed of years ago!

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