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I'm breaking the cardinal rule here of posting late at night, right after finishing PP, so let's see what sense the dawn brings! 🙃
I shot this in the early hrs of 29th of March. There was no moon present (i think!) and conditions were pretty good, AFAIK.
This is 28 x 360s, so about 2.75 hrs in total. Taken as usual with the D5300, IDAS-D1, and SW 80ED.
APP used for stacking and gradient reduction, everything else done in PS.
Would have liked twice, or 3 times, the data, but it's just not happening, so i've just decided to process what i've got.
Thanks for looking, and all CC welcome as always 😀
I'm totally New to this hobby and i'm having trouble understanding something in stellarium.
I have ordered (not recieved) a Sky-Watcher Explorer 150PDS, which has a 25mm eyepiece 50degrees FOV as a default.
I also have a Nikon D810.
I wanted to get an idea of what my field of view would be with the 25mm eyepiece (30x on 750mm focal length),
and also what it would be With my Nikon D810 mounted shooting prime Focus - no eyepieces.
What surprised me was that it wasnt much difference between the frame and size of the object i get with 30x magnification (25mm eyepiece), and what i get with the Nikon D810 mounted.
I dont get this. What magnification do i get With my DSLR mounted with no eyepiece?
Like the lunatic that I am, I decided to get the scope out last week during that storm that was passing through. The skies were clear and there was no moon about, so I figured why not! Only problem was the 17-20 mph winds, lol.
I got 2 hrs of subs but had to throw away half of them due to guiding problems more so than the wind, amazingly. This was the 2nd time in a row i'd had Dec guiding problems, and that's after about 2 years of not having a single problem guiding. After the 1st hr of wasted subs, I turned off Fast Switching in Dec and chose to only Dither in RA, and the Dec problems mostly went away, at least to allow me to capture 1 hr of 'still dodgy but just about useable' subs. Once M42 disappeared behind the neighbour's roof, I then re-calibrated on the Celestial Equator (Dec 0) and when I switched to the Pinwheel Galaxy I was able to guide as normal again (with Fast Switching and Dithering in both RA and Dec both turned on again) and didn't lose any subs, despite the wind, so I've decided that from now on I won't be calibrating at the target itself, i'm always going to do it at Dec 0.
I decided to throw this in with another 1 hr of subs (plus 10 x 30s for the core) that I took back in Jan 2017 (has it really been that long?!). That hr also had issues, with some weird streaking in the lower left that I could never work out what caused it. The D5300 hadn't been modified at that stage either. So I fired it all in to APP and decided to stack it anyway, and give it a quick process. Then chose to crank it up to 11 on the colour front, just for laughs.
It won't be going on the wall anytime soon, lol, but I suppose it came out a bit better than I was expecting, all things considered.
20 x 360s with an IDAS-D1
D5300, 80ED, HEQ5-Pro.
Stacked in APP, processed in PS.
edit - I forgot to downscale it - so no pixel peeping allowed 😋
Had a quick search but not found much info, I've just 'transitioned' from DSLR to a CMOS (AA 183C pro)
Used to capture with APT or Backyard Nikon, save as RAW, DSS to stack and use autosave.tif to work on in Photoshop. Whats the general consensus on CMOS ?
So far trying APT or Sharpcap, saving as FITS, stacking in DSS still and using autosave.tif into Photoshop. I keep seeing fits liberator mentioned ?
Opinions gratefully received.