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Preparing for first use of XBox cam and 200P


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As per title I have been enjoying modding my xbox webcam using online advice ready to try out some imaging of the moon to see if its worth investing in the future in the fancy stuff.

I removed the LEDs and the IR filter and have removed the focuser and put a webcam adaptor provided by sky's the limit on in its place, it screwed on perfect. I cut down the white plastic casing to get it on.

I have installed Sharpcap and Registax and checked out you tube for guidance.

One final question ahead of a clear night... do I focus with the scope focuser now I have replaced the webcam focuser and put the adaptor in its place?

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Yep, just use the focuser on the scope should work like a charm you may have to play the the sliders in sharp cap so the the moon is not over exposed. The hardest part is keeping the same area of the moon in the FOV to get a decent amount of frames to stack. Just take your time and have fun.

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I have issues getting my xbox webcam, modified in the same way, to prime focus. I rack the focuser all the way in and it's just shy by about a millimeter. I need to use either my 2x or 3x Barlow. I focus by just checking the live view in SharpCap and I slowly adjust the telescope focuser until I get as sharp a view as possible. It's a good idea to plan where you're going to put your lap top and it's best to get lined up on the object with an EP before swapping to the camera.

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I'd not go for the barlow straight away. Get the target area centred using an eyepiece. If you've only got the 25mm, and 10mm eyepieces that came with the scope, start with the 25mm, centre on where you want to be, then 10mm and re-centre, then barlow and eyepiece and centre once more. Then go to the camera and SharpCap. The camera sensor is tiny and will probably only show you a small part of what you can see with the eyepiece, so if you put that in straight away you'll probably end up with no idea where you are.

For planetary imaging I found life much easier after buying an eyepiece with an illuminated reticle because it's much harder to judge when the planet is central when there's nothing else in view. Doesn't need to be anything special. Mine didn't cost very much, and I often don't even bother to focus for using it as long as I can see a fuzzy blob in the crosshairs. If you're imaging the moon you'll have a view that fills the eyepiece, so judging the centre without a reticle for reference should be much easier.

James

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I'd not go for the barlow straight away. Get the target area centred using an eyepiece. If you've only got the 25mm, and 10mm eyepieces that came with the scope, start with the 25mm, centre on where you want to be, then 10mm and re-centre, then barlow and eyepiece and centre once more. Then go to the camera and SharpCap. The camera sensor is tiny and will probably only show you a small part of what you can see with the eyepiece, so if you put that in straight away you'll probably end up with no idea where you are.

For planetary imaging I found life much easier after buying an eyepiece with an illuminated reticle because it's much harder to judge when the planet is central when there's nothing else in view. Doesn't need to be anything special. Mine didn't cost very much, and I often don't even bother to focus for using it as long as I can see a fuzzy blob in the crosshairs. If you're imaging the moon you'll have a view that fills the eyepiece, so judging the centre without a reticle for reference should be much easier.

James

Annnnnnnnnnd there's something else I need to buy for this bottomless pit of a hobby. Thanks James! ;)

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Okay so need a rethink before trying again. Technically I learned the basics of the software and an image appeared via the camera, but not a good one.

Jupiter was my trial subject noting the moon was full and too bright so not ideal conditions.

Two issues. Firstly all I had was a very white circle instead of Jupiter as if superexposed on the screen. Secondly it shot across my field of view in about five seconds it wouldn't stay still?

I tried different resolutions and settings in Sharpcap for one, and in the end my head hurt thinking surely my scope must be moving as surely Jupiter isn't "moving" that quickly!

Any thoughts anyone?

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you’ll need to constantly nudge the Dob mount to compensate the rotation of the earth, this is made even worse when using a webcam and barlow.

So this sound exactly what is happening – planets appearing to zoom past.

Try the moon first.

I use WxAstroCapture but it’s almost the same as Sharpcap.

First I set everything on “auto” then go to manual setting once I have a clear image.

Here are typical setting for WxAstroCapture and my Philips SPC900 webcam

Full auto "off"

auto Exp "off"

Frame rate 5 FPS or 10FPS - 10 FPS best

Resolution 640x480

Auto white balance“ON”

Brightness 50%

Contrast 32%

Gamma 0%

Saturation 70%

Shutter speed 1/25 1/33 1/50

Gain 60% (no less than 50%)

If image is too bright increase shutter speed

this I hope will be of some help.

Lee

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It's surprising how fast planets will move through the field of view. IIRC the 200P dob has a focal length of 1200mm, which means 1mm of the camera sensor (if you're not using a barlow) corresponds to about three arcseconds across the sky, or 1/1200th of a degree. If we approximate that Jupiter appears to travel around the Earth once every 24 hours (not accurate, but close enough for here), that corresponds to 15 degrees per hour, or one degree every four minutes. That means it will take 1/5th of a second to move 1mm on the camera sensor. If the camera sensor is less than 5mm wide, you're not going to see it for long unless you move the scope :)

James

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