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the yesyes observatory - let the planning begin


yesyes

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Happy new year to you too! ;-)

This is exactly what I had in mind. Though that does not allow for diagonal bracing of the corner posts as Adrian recommended.

The cladding on the 3 walls next to the fence will be 300mm wide PVC cladding. Being 300mm wide it will allow for plenty of overhang well below the floor frame and DPC.

Braces are a good idea to stiffen things up. I used the 11mm osb sheeting fixed to the inside of the framework to act as a full sized brace, before fixing the shiplap cladding to the outside faces. Seemed pointless adding braces as the 8x4 osb sheets I used are square. So I used the osb to make sure the individual frames were square to start with.

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Braces are a good idea to stiffen things up. I used the 11mm osb sheeting fixed to the inside of the framework to act as a full sized brace, before fixing the shiplap cladding to the outside faces. Seemed pointless adding braces as the 8x4 osb sheets I used are square. So I used the osb to make sure the individual frames were square to start with.

What Francis said! I agree: full sized interior panels are a far better and easier method of bracing ........ I wish I had done it that way and saved all those annoying mitre cuts and angled screws on diagonal spars :crybaby2:

Adrian

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Yes, when the side panels are in place they are acting exactly like braces to maintain the angle between the vertical posts and the base frame. I suppose that the finished floor works in exactly the same way to brace the base frame.

In fact I built my shed with no corner framing (nor base frame). I made 4 prefabricated wall panels with stud framing and a prefabricated floor on parallel bearers, then simply screwed/ bolted all the panels together. I fitted diagonal braces to the corner joints of all the panels, but internal panelling would actually have been a better and easier way of ensuring the panels maintained their square shape.

Adrian

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I had planned to have diagonal bracing on all my walls and ordered the timber to suit but during the construction I found much of it wasn't needed - other timber/plywood members gave plenty of stiffness. I have some timber left over with which I can repair our sun lounge structure (victim of recent storms). The obsy has withstood storm force winds withoout flinching :)

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I had planned to have diagonal bracing on all my walls and ordered the timber to suit but during the construction I found much of it wasn't needed - other timber/plywood members gave plenty of stiffness. I have some timber left over with which I can repair our sun lounge structure (victim of recent storms). The obsy has withstood storm force winds withoout flinching :)

I guess it might depend on how long it will be between constructing the wall framework and then applying internal or external cladding . I went for belts and braces in case it was going to be a while. The bracing in the wall framework made the structure pretty rigid but after applying the claddiing it was very rigid :smile:. Perhaps if you're confident about getting the walls clad soon after putting them up you could dispense with the framework bracing?

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actually, I will need to clad the wall panels *before* I install them. 3 of the walls will be so close to the fence that I can't get there any more. These will also be clad with PVC cladding, which will require no maintenance.

On that subject, it might be a good idea to treat that fence in some way before I block access to it. Any suggestions what to use?

Another question regarding the timber for the obsy. Would reclaimed timer be OK? We have 2 reclaimed timber yards nearby who would be willing to deliver. Reclaimed seems to be quite a bit cheaper than new timber.

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I've always found reclaimed timber to be excellent - much better than new :) We have always used reclaimed timber when we've been able to get it. The floor support beams of my obsy are reclaimed beams from the roof of a barn. Reclaimed timber has finished warping and is stable. the older stuff is likely to be better quality too as long as it's sound - no rot, no woodworm etc.

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I have some lengths of 4x2 your welcome too if you can use the?

Mark

actually, I will need to clad the wall panels *before* I install them. 3 of the walls will be so close to the fence that I can't get there any more. These will also be clad with PVC cladding, which will require no maintenance.

On that subject, it might be a good idea to treat that fence in some way before I block access to it. Any suggestions what to use?

Another question regarding the timber for the obsy. Would reclaimed timer be OK? We have 2 reclaimed timber yards nearby who would be willing to deliver. Reclaimed seems to be quite a bit cheaper than new timber.

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Hi Chris,

In addition to angled bracing for the frame I also found that metal angle brackets were good for adding a bit of stiffness. They are fairly cheap at Wickes and easy to fit, also for some reason I find them quite asphetically pleasing:D

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another update...

I managed to clean the fence at the back of the garden with my pressure washer. What a difference!

I also ordered "Cuprinol Ducksback 5yr Fence/Shed Paint/Preserver 5L" to paint the fence with. Hopefully the fence will last a while with that as I won't have access to it any more once the obsy is built. I won't go over board with wood preserver as the fence will probably rot from the back (neighbour's side) anyway to which I have no access.

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OK, onto planning the actual observatory.

I had given up on Google Sketchup 8 twice already but yesterday I decided to watch a few instruction videos on youtube. 20 minutes later I was ready to give it another go. Once I knew that I had to use groups and components it all became clear and quite easy.

So here is what I have so far; the basic framework. Does that look like a good starting point? Anything you would recommend doing differently?

The file yesyes observatory.skp.pdf is the Sketchup project. Remove the .pdf file extension to open it Sketchup. The forum wouldn't let me upload .skp files.

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yesyes observatory.skp.pdf

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Great SketchUp design - once you get the hang of using groups it's fabulous.

Curious though - the thicker posts shown beneath the main uprights, are these concrete and in the ground? Just wondering where ground level is on your sketch?

cheers

Kevin

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Thanks! I'm really getting the hang of it now...

The thicker posts on the bottom are concrete foundations; half under ground, half above. Ground level is where the lines for the green and red axes are.

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More Sketchup work done.

There will also be plenty of diagonal bracing but I haven't quite figured out yet how to draw that in Sketchup.

Also, not quite sure where to place windows. I would like one in the warm room on the front side and probably one between warm room and scope room.

Can Sketchup provide a list of parts in the end?

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yesyes observatory_2.skp.pdf

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More Sketchup work done.

There will also be plenty of diagonal bracing but I haven't quite figured out yet how to draw that in Sketchup.

Also, not quite sure where to place windows. I would like one in the warm room on the front side and probably one between warm room and scope room.

Can Sketchup provide a list of parts in the end?

Looks like you're getting very skilled with Sketchup :icon_salut:. I did try using it but have to admit giving up. Instead, I did 2D scaled drawings in Microsoft Visio, which worked well enough for sizing and quantifying materials, but of course you don't get the 3D fly throughs.

You're design looks like it will be a very strong structure, particularly if you're going to add diagonal bracing too. Keep up the good work.

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I'm interested in opinions. Is anything over the top? I have no experience with what size wood to use for what and how close these supports need to be together. I prefer to over-engineer things *a little* but there's no need to build a fortress ;-)

The Sketchup drawing is all to scale with the timber sizes I had in mind (and listed on page 6).

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