1100D mod in progress.

[JAS]

I have decided to go ahead and remove the filter from my 1100D and replace it with the Badder filter.

I started this evening and now have the badder filter in place and am waiting for the glue to dry.

Luckily everything has gone to plan so far and all of the screws came out without too much resistance.

Just hoping it all goes back together ok.

Jason.

Sent from my LT15i using Tapatalk 2

[Gina]

Well done Just one point for others to consider... The 1100D has two filters :-

1. IR/UV blocking - this one is fine for AP (other than infra-red). It looks like clear glass and is the first one you get to.
   
2. Colour correction - a light blue filter which reduces sensitivity to red light - this one wants removing.
   

The Baader IR/UV cut filter is much the same as the Canon one. The Canon is reckoned to be just as good as the Baader. In older cameras both filters were combined in one so removing that left the camera without any IR or UV cut, requiring a separate IR/UV cut filter - hence the Baader.

The light blue filter makes the camera's colour response match the human eye to give natural looking terrestrial photos. In astro-photography there is a lot of deep red light to capture produced by energised hydrogen gas. The colour filter reduces the sensitivity to this to 20% so an umdodified camera needs 5 times the exposure being 5 times less sensitive due to the filter.

I hope this makes things clearer for beginners.

[JAS]

Hi Gina,

Your coments on the blue colour'd filter have confused me a bit, I have followed the detailed instructions by Garry Honis (like most people)

On his page about removing the 1100D filter (step 25)

http://ghonis2.ho8.com/rebelmod1100Dstep12a.html

he says that the blue filter is the IR cut filter?

Are you saying that I dont need to refit the original clear filter with the baader one? I want to be able to use the camera for normal use as well as AP.

Jason.

[Gina]

I've had another look at Gary Honis's instructions. He is using the Baader filter to return the total thickness of glass back to the original. This makes the focussing work properly for terrestrial use (normal photography) - if you're using the camera for AP only, it isn't necessary.

Now as for the naming of the filters... Much as I very much respect Gary and all his work, I'm afraid I have to disagree with his calling the blue coloured filter as IR/UV cut. This filter reduces red sensitivity as I said above. He replaces this with the Baader glass and re-fits the original Canon filter. ie. for the blue filter :-

25. Remove the original IR Cut Filter (blue glass) from its frame. It is glued in the plastic holder at the four corners. Use a razor knife to loosen the glue in each corner. Pry the glass up at each corner. If the filter breaks, no problem since the filter will be discarded.

Gary said :-

28. Glue the original LPF#1 filter into the plastic frame by applying silicone glue at the four locations marked by yellow arrows in the photo below. There are small wells there that will hold the glue. As was done for gluing the LPF#2 filter, be sure to allow the glue to dry overnight to be sure it is well cured.

But when I replaced my clear filter, referred to as LPF#1 by Gary, I didn't find glue necessary as I retained the original double sided sticky frame around the whole edge of the clear filter. This may have been introduced by Canon after Gary did his mod as he makes no mention of it.

I can see why there was confusion and I hope that makes things clearer.

[nytecam]

Good luck JAS - model housekeeping/photos during progress - well done;-)

[JAS]

After a barrage of disruptions over the weekend I finaly managed to finish the mod.

After considering Gina's coments I decided to just use the badder filter for now, I have kept the canon clear filter in a safe place (never to be found again ), just in case I decide to put it in.

The whole process went very well with no problems, apart from the short ribbon cable from the display that is near impossible to get back in place. It took me 2 attempts to get it in the correct position.

Here is a pic taken in my garden yesterday after completing the mod.

And this one was taken with the same settings but using the tungsten white balance as recomended by Badder.

The focus is out but that was to be expected, it wont make any diference for astro use.

While the glue was drying I had a look around the inside of the camera reflecting upon Gina's threads about peltier cooling and decided to make a template for a copper finger.

I am planning to fit the finger from the back of the sensor down to the tripod mountng bolt, I think I can bolt the finger to the inside of the plate adding thermal paste. Then bolting a copper plate to the outside of the camera also with thermal paste, I could then mount the peltier and heatsink to it. This woud then make it removable, I was thinking about setting cooling to about 5 degrees to avoid too much moisture.

Any thoughts?

A few pics to show how the template fitted.

Jason.

[Gina]

Very interesting idea I hadn't thought of that particular method. I'll be watching your progress and the results avidly Nice one

[Chris]

This looks interesting JAS, so you will be preserving the screen and all the outside gubbins will be removable as well, nice modular idea! I also really struggled with the ribbon cable for the screen with my 300D mod, a lot of tutting occured:D

Chris

[Gina]

Yes, certainly very tricky on the 1100D - even more so because there are two ribbon cables, one for the screen and the other for the buttons. Must admit that having the back on gives a nice feeling of confidence even if it isn't actually necessary.

[Cath]

Scary!!

[JAS]

I went into work early today to make the heat sink.

Just needs folding now, will try to get it done after work if the brake press is free.

Jason.

Sent from my LT15i using Tapatalk 2

[Chris]

Wow, no hanging about!

[Gina]

One thing puzzles me - why are there three cold fingers? I used one of 22swg (0.7mm) copper sheet from ebay.

[JAS]

I have folded the cold finger and test fitted it into the camera, everything fits in well and I cant see any cotact with anything that it should not be touching.

Need to get some thermal paste and fit in place, I also need to sort a insulator out to go between the cold finger and the underside of the board behind the imaging chip.

Here are some pics.

The tripod bracket has pressed ribs, so I filed them off to get the mating serface as flat as possible.

Jason.

[JAS]

This looks interesting JAS, so you will be preserving the screen and all the outside gubbins will be removable as well, nice modular idea! I also really struggled with the ribbon cable for the screen with my 300D mod, a lot of tutting occured:D

Chris

One thing puzzles me - why are there three cold fingers? I used one of 22swg (0.7mm) copper sheet from ebay.

Gina, I made the cold finger from 0.8mm copper that we use at work, there are 3 to enable me to setup the brake press for folding, I will only be using 1. As it happens I got it right first time for a change so I have a spare going if you would like it to have a play with?

This looks interesting JAS, so you will be preserving the screen and all the outside gubbins will be removable as well, nice modular idea! I also really struggled with the ribbon cable for the screen with my 300D mod, a lot of tutting occured:D

Chris

I know what you mean Chris, there was a bit more than tutting going on in my workshop!!! Just as well the kids were not about or I would have been in trouble with the boss, she was not too happy when she saw me with the camera in parts as it was .

Jason.

[kirkster501]

Hi! How long did the mod take please?

steve

[JAS]

Hi! How long did the mod take please?

steve

It took me about 3hrs in total, but I did have to leave it overnight to allow the glue on the new filter to dry.

Jason.

[Merlin66]

Gina was 100% re the filters...

See the attached spectra.

I don't know why Gary (and others) don't accept the results.

With the colour correction filter removed, the front anti-alias still provides UV-IR cut-off. (I think the Baader UV-IR glass is used, instead of just clear glass, due to price and availability.)

[Gina]

That's a brilliant job JAS

I'll PM you I can see another 1100D "getting the treatment" And here I was keeping one unmodded for comparison tests - I really must stop buying these refurbished "200 nikker" jobbies

[Chris]

Very professional looking job there JAS:)

and Gina, how many 1100D's do you have again!?

[JAS]

Gina was 100% re the filters...

See the attached spectra.

I don't know why Gary (and others) don't accept the results.

With the colour correction filter removed, the front anti-alias still provides UV-IR cut-off. (I think the Baader UV-IR glass is used, instead of just clear glass, due to price and availability.)

I see what you mean Steve, I had a look on the Badder website after reading Gina's coments and it said there that their filter replaces both std filters. It would be good if it was made thicker to allow for the total thickness of the 2 std filters and retaining the auto focus, or with a secound clear filter.

Jason.

[Gina]

Very professional looking job there JAS:)

and Gina, how many 1100D's do you have again!?

Umm... counting... 1 2 3 4 5 6 - I think One definitely destroyed (well at least the main board is), one not working but just might be repairable, one for the scope with full TEC/Arduino set point cooling, two on the WF rig and a spare not taken apart yet. Yes, that's the lot. I might see if I can get hold of a main board (and repair one) if it's sufficiently cheaper than 200 quid.

[Chris]

Umm... counting... 1 2 3 4 5 6 - I think One definitely destroyed (well at least the main board is), one not working but just might be repairable, one for the scope with full TEC/Arduino set point cooling, two on the WF rig and a spare not taken apart yet. Yes, that's the lot. I might see if I can get hold of a main board (and repair one) if it's sufficiently cheaper than 200 quid.

and I thought I was bad having a modded 300D, Modded 350D and a 1100D although one of the modded ones has to go:( not that its selling even at 99 quid! whats going on in the world!!???

[Gina]

Well, with all this bad weather I can't do any significant imaging so playing with cameras fills the gap Actually, I have only 4 working ones with 3 in use I've had a lot of fun with these cameras

[Chris]

Only pulling your leg GIna:) I think its great what you've been doing with these cameras, inspiring stuff!