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Uranium235

IC1805: Heart of the Heart Final (HST palette)

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Wednesday night turned out to be pretty productive thanks to the darkening nights. So I was able to let the mount run for a few hours and leave the camera taking 15min subs. When added to the rest, the end result now seems virtually noise free - well, I cant see any on the laptop at least! :) seems my "weight of long subs" approach is working in the battle against noise.

Would be interested to hear how it displays on other screens, too bright, too dark, noisy? Its only a jpg, but it still looks good despite the compression (no obvious artifacts).

IC1805: Heart of the Heart Nebula

24x450 + 24x900 (Ha_L), 16x450 (SII/Ha/OIII) mapped as RGB

ED80, Atik 314L+, NEQ6

Calibration: hot pixel removal only

Setpoint: -10

Thanks for looking :)

index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=73888

post-5513-0-76454000-1349464938_thumb.jp

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Awesome dude, I'm now looking at which CCD for my ED80 in the new year because of pictures like this

Trying not to sound too biased, but you cant go wrong with a 314L+

Its an awesome camera and I'll probably end up being buried with mine. I also plan to buy another in the hope it will breed with the other one....lol. :)

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Truly magnificent image :) And very interesting as the Atik 314L+ is the first astro CCD camera I plan to get next year. Already have ED80 and NEQ6 Pro.

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Lovely...kind of 3d looking. Ive just bought a secondhand 314. Maybe the heart will be my first target tomorrow night!

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Lovely...kind of 3d looking. Ive just bought a secondhand 314. Maybe the heart will be my first target tomorrow night!

Thanks :)

Have you got the required filters? As a bare minimum you need a UV/IR blocking filter. But once you stick a Ha filter on it, you won't look back!

Make sure you use a b-mask for focus too, CCDs arent very forgiving of dodgy focusing (I find i cant use a ccd without one). In artemis capture, use the subframe function to put a box around a bright star and set the binning to 1x1, then zoom in once youve popped on the mask on, set it to loop - that will give you the best visual feedback possible when adjusting the focus. Best to uncheck auto-stretch when focusing too, setting your own white point will give you a better diffraction pattern to work with.

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That really is fantastic! love the detail in that neb it is truly 3D looking as well! brilliant Hubble pallete:)

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Oooh - Another IC1805 - My favourite nebula... and a very nice one it is Rob...! I was a bit naughty on Jnc71106's post of his IC1805 - Whenever I see it I can never resist swapping the channels about :rolleyes:. I've resisted here... well at least, I resisted posting the result, but it also looks really good with an Ha/synth G/OIII mapping... :smiley:

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Oooh - Another IC1805 - My favourite nebula... and a very nice one it is Rob...! I was a bit naughty on Jnc71106's post of his IC1805 - Whenever I see it I can never resist swapping the channels about :rolleyes:. I've resisted here... well at least, I resisted posting the result, but it also looks really good with an Ha/synth G/OIII mapping... :smiley:

Thanks Andy!

I will give the Ha/SG/OIII a go this afternoon, but how do you approach it? Do you leave the levels for both channels as they are (as with normal LRGB), or stretch them so they are equal (as with hubble palette)? Ive always left them as they are, but I just need to check that im not missing a trick here :)

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That is awesome. It also works well with HOO colour mapping so its possible to get 3 different versions out of your data :)

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... so its possible to get 3 different versions out of your data :)
It's actually possible to get yet another version out of it - HOS - :smiley:. Here's a link to the 4 versions I had a crack at last year -

Rob - When I've tried my Ha/sG/OIII, all I've ever done (as it's false colour anyway) is take the balanced Ha and OIII channels (as used for the HST), pasted them into red and blue channels, and then run Noel Carboni's synthetic green action. Having created the green channel, the action pauses to allow you to set the level for it, and once you've said okay, it does the rest. I then play around either with a selective colour layer and/or saturation/vibrance to suit... :smiley:.

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Excellent, I never thought of that approach. I will give it a shot, watch this space :)

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Well, I had a fiddle with the channels and used the OIII channel as green, then ran noels "make synth green" action and this is what popped out. The RGB master looked a little wierd, but when combined with the Ha luminance it was surprisingly pleasing.

index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=73971

post-5513-0-25141000-1349542211_thumb.jp

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Very nice job Rob! It makes for an interesting alternative, doesn't it?

Although I also noted it on Jnc77106 thread, here's another one to try:

R=80%Hydrogen+20-24%Sulfur, G=100%Oxygen and B=85%Oxygen+15%Hydrogen to compensate otherwise missing H-beta emission

(This is a J-P Metsavainio recipe for "natural" colour - http://astroanarchy.zenfolio.com/p62690868)

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Stunning image, looks really deep Rob. I can't pick out any noise or artifacts (although my eye is pretty untrained). Have to confess your original interpretation is the most pleasing to me

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They both look really good. The second version with that deep blue patch in the middle is a bit like looking through a worm hole into another part of space very cool

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Thanks :)

Have you got the required filters? As a bare minimum you need a UV/IR blocking filter. But once you stick a Ha filter on it, you won't look back!

Make sure you use a b-mask for focus too, CCDs arent very forgiving of dodgy focusing (I find i cant use a ccd without one). In artemis capture, use the subframe function to put a box around a bright star and set the binning to 1x1, then zoom in once youve popped on the mask on, set it to loop - that will give you the best visual feedback possible when adjusting the focus. Best to uncheck auto-stretch when focusing too, setting your own white point will give you a better diffraction pattern to work with.

great advice rob...appreciated muchos! Andy uk kindly helped me last night last night. we set up my imagin setup on his eq6...to save time in setting up my heq5. its all about me me me at the mo! hopefully once i have gained enough info, then i can help others. im gettin the narrow band filters from flo hopefully this week. my girlfriend lives in fairly light polluted skies in south bristol, but i am determined to set up a small obsy next year. she has a pain-like dissability which affects her half the time, so we decided that for much of my imaging, the back garden, rather than a 10 mile trek would be better. in the meantime, im gonna put down a few feet markers to save mount and tripod setup time, and just get some large tarpaulin covers for when the heavens open!....like that ever happens in sunny bristol!!!

cheers

bob

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Very nice job Rob! It makes for an interesting alternative, doesn't it?

Although I also noted it on Jnc77106 thread, here's another one to try:

R=80%Hydrogen+20-24%Sulfur, G=100%Oxygen and B=85%Oxygen+15%Hydrogen to compensate otherwise missing H-beta emission

(This is a J-P Metsavainio recipe for "natural" colour - http://astroanarchy....o.com/p62690868)

One could come up with about 4 or 5 versions of this using various different methods... very Andy Worhol! :)

Very interesting link for the natural colour look, thanks Andy. I will jot that formula down and give it a go later on (got no choice, its cloudy!). Just have to visualise how im going to do it in PS, though. Seems tricky.

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... Just have to visualise how im going to do it in PS, though. Seems tricky

I don't THINK it actually is, but I'm not 100% sure my translation of it is necessarily correct - I THINK all it is is opening up the Ha and then copying in the SII as another layer across the top (both, I think, in normal mode), setting their respective opacity levels to 80% and 20% and then flattening as the new R. However, I've emailed J-PM to see if he can confirm this is correct...

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I don't THINK it actually is, but I'm not 100% sure my translation of it is necessarily correct - I THINK all it is is opening up the Ha and then copying in the SII as another layer across the top (both, I think, in normal mode), setting their respective opacity levels to 80% and 20% and then flattening as the new R. However, I've emailed J-PM to see if he can confirm this is correct...

I dont know how that would work, the bottom layer is always at 100%.............EDIT.....rename the bottom layer to anything but background layer then you can adjust its opacity, it looks a bit odd until you flatten the image.

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You're right of course Martin... I missed out a step - I actually copy both the channels to a new file to begin with, which of course leaves a blank (redundant) background layer, The only thing I then have to remember is to check the image mode as for some reason although it takes the "gray scale" property of the first copy, it wants to make it 8 bit (so I change that to 16 bit). When it's flattened at the end it then reduces all 3 back to the background which is then the new channel,,,

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It's looking fantastic now Rob. 11 hours integration with a cooled CCD has left it as smooth as silk! I think the Hubble version has come out best.

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