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Hope someone with more experience than I, which basically means anyone that has successfully collimated a Newtonian, can answer a couple of compound questions I have based on my first and only attempt at secondary collimation of my SkyWatcher Flextube 250.
1) All three of my secondary collimation screws were extremely snug before I did anything and I was only able to comfortably turn them counter-clockwise. Is this normal? Do I need to loosen all three screws first before I can properly start collimation? Should I be turning any screw beyond "snug"?
2) Before collimating, I placed a yellow sheet inside my OTA opposite my focuser tube and I placed a red sheet between my secondary and primary. The view this gave through my focuser tube was of a red circle surrounded by a partial yellow ring (the secondary mirror stalk blocking a portion of this yellow annulus). While independently turning each of the secondary collimation screws counter-clockwise I looked down the focuser tube (both with and without a sight tube installed) expecting to see some change in the shape of the red area (more or less circular) and/or the yellow area (less or more even thickness). I turned the screws no more that 2 complete revolutions. I did not perceive any appreciable difference in what I saw and I turned each screw back (clockwise) to their original tightness before working with another of the screws. Does it make sense that I didn't perceive any change? Should I have turned the screws more revolutions? Should I have loosened more than one at a time?
Very confused and looking for your help. Thanks
I have just got a second hand Astromaster 130EQ. I want to say that i have collimated scopes before without the use of a laser but in this case i have 2 questions as this is so far out i cant see what i am looking at half the time. So hopefully you can help, thank you.
Info about the first problem:
The secondary mirror fixing screw that hold the mirror and the collimation allen key bolts were so loose the secondary mirror had rolled facing the bottom of the OTE. In every other case the holding screw never needed touching and all i had to do were make small adjustments with an allen key, no screwdriver was needed. So this case is a whole different scale then any other collimation i have ever needed to do. You probably all know that i need to get the center of the eyepiece in line with the center of the mirror before can move on with this step.
What is the best way to do this, shall i just eye it for now? (i have seen people measuring to the center of the eyepiece and then do the same with mirror but then i still dont know if the mirror is facing me directly.)
Info about the second problem
Every other time i have collimated a scope the mirror and scope were very low quality and just used for practice basically. The old scopes were used to see if i wanted to go further into this hobby which i definitely do. Any how the old scopes had a flat mirror and i could find the center by placing the mirror on paper and tracing a circle template. The thing is this mirror is concaved so any template iswill have to be pushed into the vurve (i think).
So how can i center the mirror without placing it face down on a piece of paper which cant be a good thing?
Thank you. I hope i have not gone on to much, thank you for your patience in reading a long winded post.
Well, I have captured Saturn for the first time and it’s a rush, but unfortunately, the universe conspired against me tonight.
The full moon was about 40 degrees away, it was hazy making stars look like they were boiling, and squadrons of mosquitoes attacked with Kamikaze like zeal!. I slapped myself silly but they eventually ran me out of my backyard, cursing all the way inside.
Hopefully next time seeing will be better and I’ll spray myself with repellent, and boy do i need to get my focus correct, i need a mask.
I knew from the start, that my Mak (which is new) was a bit out of collimation, I also knew that
alhough they hold collimation very well, they can be a pain to collimate.
With this in mind I scoured the net for articles and videos before attempting it rather than ending up
having a major wobbler when messing it up lol.
The key was to understand the push/pull system by which the spider is moved, and very small turns of the screws while adjusting them in sequence with each other.
I am happy to say that after 30 minutes, and thanks to Arcturus and a high power eyepiece, I have come
as close to perfect as I will get and I am more than happy with that. I took a cell phone shot, I wish it was as sharp and defined as the rings were visually but regardless, it was rewarding.
Both inside and outside focus was the same which is great, after snuggling up the locking screws, I won’t be messing with them anymore unless I drop it.
HEY its about time eh!!!! my first astrophoto with a dedicated cam using all the bells and whistles like iCap and Registax.
Programs that are still alien mumbo jumbo to me, but after eating a whole bunch of youtube videos and a bunch more trial and error, I finally pumped out this abomination, or so it must seem to you Pro's lol
I had a very vague idea of how to set up proper parameters in iCap for lunar imaging but I tried several settings and used youtube also, regarding wavelets, I basically dragged sliders all over the place
and watched changes occur. There is much to learn about post work in iCap, but i'll give it the old college try lol, my sole reason for posting is for feedback, this is where you Pro's shine, oh do I need
Anyway, it is my first astrophoto so no matter how much better it can be, well, it will do for now and I say that with a bit of swag because hey! at least I see craters there lol.
Exposure time.....no clue!
Number of frames....a whole bunch
Attempts.....way too many!
Wavelet values.....all over the place
De noising....didn't work at all I think
Resolution...12 something by ??? forgot
The conditions were horrid, a mak is not an imaging scope as I have learned the hard way, F1800 not good, I will definitely be looking at a much shorter FL scope,
Far too tight an image, I would need a 50 shot mosaic for full moon, or a focal reducer which I'm not sure anyone makes for my Mak.