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Uranium235

CCD/DSLR Experiment #3: Andromeda

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Had a good night last night, not only was it very clear but for a change it was clear on a Friday night (yay!) so I was able to put in a few hours and complete the M31 mosaic by increasing the overall exposure time for each panel, and comple the missing 4th panel.

Its only a 1h40min per panel, but once it was stitched together there was a surprising about of data to play with for just 5min subs. The colour was obtained from my 2010 version of M31 which was shot using the ED80/1000d and registered using registar. No reducer/flattener was used when I took the 1000d version, but this hardly shows when combined with the luminence layer.

This was also a test of a new app I downloaded yesterday, there is now an android version of tightVNC viewer. Which enables me to view and control exactly whats going on at the netbook doing the guiding and image capture. I can see this being very, very useful when it comes to SGL8 as it will enable me to get out and about meeting more people (and doing a bit more visual) whilst still being able to keep an eye on my PHD graph.

Later on I was looking for something quick to have a nibble at before going to bed, so I thought I would try the Cocoon nebula. Id never tried it before, and I was a little surprised at just how many stars there were. I thought it was noise at first, but nope... theyre stars! :)

ED80 (0.85x), Atik 314L+, NEQ6

16x300 x 4 panes (L), 10x600 RGB (1000d)

Calib: Flats & Bias

Setpoint: -10

Guiding: Excellent

Thanks for looking :)

Rob

M31: Andromeda Galaxy

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Cocoon nebula, 7x300 + 1x1200 (L)

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PHD on my phone!

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post-5513-0-87212400-1347739276_thumb.jp

post-5513-0-68391600-1347739475_thumb.jp

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That is a super Andromeda - I like the fact that you can mix and match your DSLR colour with your CCD images. What's the plan for the cocoon?

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Thanks Sara, I think the CCD/DSLR combo works very well on galaxies or bright nebulae, but not so great on anything thats weak (it brings in too much noise). But for the cocoon I will add another 90min and then do another panel so I can pick up more of the dust lane then rotate the whole thing 90deg counter-clockwise. For the colour I will cheat a little bit and just capture red and blue, then create a synth green. I did consider binning the colour, but I dont think that will work well with so many stars.

Edited by Uranium235

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Absolutely wonderful Andromeda and a good Cocoon - well done :)

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Thanks guys (and Gina!) :)

Im hoping I can try this method of adding colour on M45 and M42 later in the year, it should work really well. Actually, ive never used the 1000d during the winter so it may perform better in the cold weather.

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Very nice work Rob,

No reducer/flattener was used when I took the 1000d version, but this hardly shows when combined with the luminence layer.

Quite right it doesn't show, that gives me some food for thought and maybe I shall hold on to more old data rather than ditch it as time goes by. Not having a flattener really does show at my frame edges. The cocoon is looking like its started off well too, I would imagine maybe with some cooling to the DSLR the experiment may even work on some of the fainter stuff without introducing too much noise?

Really cracking pics, and thanks again for your advice with my finder guider, really has come up trumps for me :D

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Very nice work Rob,

Quite right it doesn't show, that gives me some food for thought and maybe I shall hold on to more old data rather than ditch it as time goes by. Not having a flattener really does show at my frame edges. The cocoon is looking like its started off well too, I would imagine maybe with some cooling to the DSLR the experiment may even work on some of the fainter stuff without introducing too much noise?

Really cracking pics, and thanks again for your advice with my finder guider, really has come up trumps for me :D

No prob mate, glad to see you are up and running.

When it came to combining the RGB and luminence layer in PS, I ran Noels "make stars smaller" action on the RGB image as that reduces or removes the colour halo from most of the stars, which comes from having slightly differing star sizes when you're using this combination of cameras.

Always hang onto your old stuff, which is especially true if you dont change your imaging gear that often. One years subs can be rolled over to the next as it is not always possible to complete a project until the following year.

Ive no idea what to expect from the 1000d in the depths of winter, apart from a flat battery! So it should (in theory) be much less of a chore to remove the noise, not that it may matter that much because I usually club the RGB layer to within an inch of its life with noise reduction before combining it with the CCD data.

Edited by Uranium235

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