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SKYTEE 2


enigma

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I am considering the above mount as an alt-azimuth solution for a long 4" refractor, an 8" SCT and a 10" Newtonian. Is there a reason I should have second thoughts and consider other options as well? Would any of the above optical tubes have trouble with the mount?

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Should be fine, but i would defo consider the improved dovetails and you might also consider a extension for the tripod and try to get the 2" version as the reflector will hit the legs when mounted on the side.

The 2" version of the tripod? Is this available as an option?

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It won't be a problem with any of the OTAs you mention. I use the Berlebach wooden tripod but the CG5 tripod with the 2" legs will work just fine and can be picked up second hand at a good price. I haven't found it necessary to use a pillar extension on the tripod with a long refractor OTA.

I strongly recommend getting the ADM dovetail saddles though as they are a lot more secure than the ones that come with the mount. A popular mod is to drill and tap mounting holes in the "blank" end of the mount so that saddles can be fitted on each end which lets you mount two heavy OTAs at once.

http://stargazerslou...2/#entry1615257

Here's pics of a 10" Meade SNT (17Kg), a 6" refractor (12Kg) and my Carton 100mm f/13 & Lyra 102 f/11 as well as an 80mm refractor on my modded Skytee 2.

John

post-1876-0-57253200-1345890717_thumb.jp post-1876-0-09504200-1345890729_thumb.jp post-1876-0-62564800-1345890870_thumb.jp

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You can leave each axis "unlocked" so that it can be moved by hand or lock each axis so that you can use the geared slow-mo knobs. The scope will stay wherever you want it "unlocked" and it's so easy to move. I found the slo-mo knobs were great when observing at high magnifications as it makes it easy to keep something within the FOV.

John

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I am assuming that in the "locked" position an optical tube can only be moved using the slow motion controls and that it is "secured" from slipping down?

Yes that's correct.

Actually if the OTA is balanced (more or less) it stays in place anyway and it dosen't just slip down. Although if leaving the scope unattended I lock the axis just in case.

John

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I think that they're the same ones. The problem with them was that the stud in the saddle could pull out. That's supposedly been improved, but I prefer a saddle that I know will work and that has two clamping screws not just one.

John

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Can the counterweight rod be installed both vertically AND horizontally? Could a counterweight from a Celestron CG5/EQ5 (inside diameter 2cm and outside 15cm) be used or would the counterweight hit the base of the mount if placed in the vertical position?

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Yes the bar can be fitted in either the end of the mount (horizontal) or in the side (vertical) and the CG5 5Kg counterweight (pic 1 & 2) will fit although it has to be positioned near the end of the counterweight bar to clear the mount when the bar is in the vertical position. The CG4 type counterweight set (1.8Kg & £.2Kg) (3rd pic) are smaller in diameter and so give more clearance.

John

post-1876-0-31820800-1346760508_thumb.jp post-1876-0-70048500-1346760526_thumb.jp post-1876-0-61691600-1346760539_thumb.jp

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The Skywatcher 5kg counterweight only just clears the mount, so use this to compare measurements.

The only issue I find is with the short shaft so the counterweights can clash with the az slo-mo knobs, no biggie but I've been known to pick up the whole mount and OTA to rotate it!

It's a great mount if you balance your OTA, just point and go

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Depends on how long a refractor but with my Carton 100mm f/13 I find it's no real problem. Yes it can foul the tripod leg when near the zenith and the leg is just in the wrong place, but in practice this rarely happens and you can always move the tripod a bit if needed. As you can see in the photo this is how close the OTA can be pointed to the zenith when the leg is in the wrong place. However with a shorter refractor such as an f/10 it shouldn't be a problem.

BTW I did try it with the Orion pillar extension and found it wasn't worth the bother and that pillar is really heavy. Just extra weight to lug around.

John

post-1876-0-93128300-1346862784_thumb.jp

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I think that they're the same ones. The problem with them was that the stud in the saddle could pull out. That's supposedly been improved, but I prefer a saddle that I know will work and that has two clamping screws not just one.

John

Is it the stud pulling out of the saddle or cheap knurled aluminium clamping nut slipping of the stud? I replaced the aluminium knurled but with a long stainless steel nut and it seems a million miles better. On mine the stud seems well and truly locked into the saddle.

However, I will get a couple of ADM saddles at some point.

Is that an eq5 drive kit on the mount? Looks the Buisness. I did wonder if the internals were based on a standard Skywatcher mount

Thanks

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I beleive the problem was the stud didn't screw into the saddle far enough and could come out, although some also reported the thread in the aluminum knobs stripped out.

My Skytee 2 has been fitted with a Synscan set-up and is a full EQ GOTO when the wedge I built is used. In Alt-Az mode it's just a powered mount (still very handy though) as the drive motors would need encoders to work as an Alt-Az GOTO. Skywatcher doesn't use encoders for the Synscan EQ. Skywatcher never intended to have drives fitted to the Skytee 2 mount so it was a bit tricky to design the mounting brackets for the drives.

John

post-1876-0-55009300-1346873332_thumb.jp post-1876-0-85088900-1346873354_thumb.jp

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Thanks, your setup looks impressive.

I have a spare eq 5 goto kit lying around and thinking of doing something similar to you. I suspect mine won't look as good as yours but I have a little mill and lathe....

The Skytee 2 is a good bi if kit, lots of potential for mods etc.

Stuart

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My f4.7 10" works fine with it, worth checking specs to confirm. The scope is likely to hit the legs at certain points near zenith. I'm looking for someone to manufacture a 4" pillar to address this.... Sent a few emails awaiting replies

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