Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
As i would like to give it a try with a color camera and therefore need the funds i am selling my Mono camera setup.
All come in original boxes in excellent working condition, filters have been in the filter wheel since i bought them.
Atik 383l+ Mono boxed with all extras £900
Astrodon Ha 3nm 36mm boxed £620 SOLD
Astrodon Oiii 3nm 36mm boxed £620 SOLD
Astrodon Lum 36mm boxed £180 SOLD
I will be happy to send any photos to someone who is interested.
Payment via Paypal in Uk Pounds or Euros (buyer will pays the fees if any)
Safe and Secured shipping with tracking number. Postage expenses by me.
A few months back, i bought my first mono camera, an Atik 383l+ from Martin @Xsubmariner off here. I hadn't had a chance to give it a whirl until last night.
I thought about getting the 80ED out, but i've been wanting to do some widefield stuff for a while, so i attached an old Tamron 135mm F2.8 vintage M42 lens i picked up last year for next to nothing. The lens needs to be stopped down to F5.6 (perhaps less, i haven't tested though) to produce acceptable stars in broadband, but i was hoping it could be used more wide open for Narrowband. I used step-down rings screwed on to the end of the lens hood to bring the aperture down to 37mm, which is about F3.65 (i did briefly try it wide open in Ha, and it wasn't that bad tbh, but i could still make out some comet-shaped stars in a few places so i opted to stop it down a bit to play it safe). I have a TS Optics filter drawer in the optical train, so i can still swap out filters without too much fuss. I still have about 3-4mm of extra backfocus space to spare, but i can already find focus as it is, so i'm not sure if it's that important that i haven't fully used it all up.
Focusing was tough. I was focusing using a Bahtinov mask on Deneb, and i had to use 10s subs (subframes) at 2x2 bin to get bright enough spikes for Bahtinov Grabber to pick up to the spikes ok. Even then, it was showing the focus error moving about quite a bit, even without me touching the focus ring. In the end i just got it as close as i could and went with it.
Conditions were not great. Some clear spells, but there was a lot of cloud passing through. I figures it would be good enough for a test session. The Phd guide graph looked horrific, and was somewhere in the 1-2" range (image scale is 8.4" so not a big deal hopefully). I bodged together a couple of old dovetails to add enough weight to counter-balance the 5Kg counterweight. It just about does. It's not perfect by any means, but hopefully sufficient for this purpose.
I would ideally like to shoot 1200s subs, but couldn't last night due to the constant clouds (Phd lost the guide star countless times). I was about to give up, but persisted and aimed for 600s subs. Glad i did, as i ended up with 6 useable subs, even if a couple were affected by some thin cloud.
Did a quick stack in APP and a 10 min process in PS, just to get a rough idea of what i can expect from this. I used Flats and a couple of Darks just to do a rough calibration. Didn't do any gradient reduction, was in too much of a hurry after packing up last night. Overall i'm fairly pleased with how it performed. I'm obviously not aiming for Samyang 135mm F2 levels of performance here, but for purely NB bi-colour mosaics i think it can do a job.
I've included a picture of the rig below as well, in case anyone's interested.
6 x 600s (1 Hr)
Atik 383l+ 2" Baader Ha 7nm
Tamron Adaptall2 135mm F2.8 (@F3.65)
I recently upgraded to a purpose made astro-camera (Atik Horizon Color). The learning curve has definitely been noticeable, but I cant figure a couple things out. For some reason the pictures are grey scale when using N.I.N.A. I have tried different binning and formats, but the image is always black and white.
If I use the ATIK software (Infinity,Dusk) there is an option for 'Color Binning', and that seems to have fixed it for those programs, but N.I.N.A doesn't seem to have that option (you can not select anything for binning, or select 1x1, 2x2 ect.). But what makes it weirder is that the preview is always color using N.I.N.A. I used a pinhole lens cover to take pictures of my computer screen and it always shows up as color images. However, if I take that exact image file that previews in color and move it to pixinsight, it is grey-scale.
Is this a binning thing, file format problem? At this point I am just confused, if the preview of the image is color shouldn't the image data be color as well?
So far all the problems I have had with this camera have just been simple things that were new to me, but this one is really throwing me for a loop. Thanks for any help.
I've attached a couple images. The first you can see the NINA preview is color, as well with the couple other I took in the bottom right. And the other in a photo of trying to color saturate the stretched image in Pixinsight, and it says that it cannot saturate a grey-scale image. I have tried this with Tif, Fits, and various binning types.
I scrapped all the Oiii and Sii data I previously took during a full moon (about 15 hours worth) and retook it all when the moon was a bit smaller at 76%. Ha was taken during 98% and 67% moon. All the lights were taken on the following nights: 12th, 19th and 20th September 2019.
Integration times, all in 600s subs unbinned:
Ha = 28.33 hours
Oiii= = 5.67 hours
Sii = 5.67 hours
The Ha data is really nice, and unsurprisingly the Oiii and Sii is not as strong (or nice).
I'm missing that (vital) step in my processing routine of getting the Sii and Oiii properly stretched to match the Ha, before combining. I dont really know how to deal with the weaker data properly. Any pointers would be appreciated.
What I do currently:
All the data is loaded into APP into separate channels/sessions.
The data is stacked and registered against the best Ha sub
This produces individual stacks of Ha, Sii and Oiii that are all registered
Each channel is processed with DPP in APP and then saved as a 16bit TIFF
Each is opened in PS
Stars removed with AA and any remnants removed and tidied up
I then open a blank RGB document in PS
I paste Ha into Green, Sii into Red and Oiii into Blue
Adjust the selective colour settings to get 'Hubble palette'
Adjust levels, curves, saturation until looks ok
All the Ha Sii Oiii data is then combined together in a single 'super' stack in APP using quality weighted algorithm to create a 'luminance'
That luminance layer is adjusted using levels, curves, and NC tools such as local contrast enhancement and deep space noise reduction (using masks to apply as required)
The luminance is pasted onto the above colour layer, and incrementally added using gaussian blur
Cropped and saved.
Here it is anyway I haven't intended on any more exposure time for this one, but will consider it, if the expert opinion dictates otherwise!