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mpeniak

widefield image from Slovakia

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Hi all!

I have recently bought Canon 300D and yesterday I tried it without my telescope and eq-mount. I put the camera on a tripod and pointed it towards milkyway and I got this picture after stacking 18 subs of 30sec.

What software do you use to get more detail out of DSO images please?

Martin :D

673_large.jpeg

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Personaly i use PSP PhotoXI but i suppose any photo software will do

just find the tab that adjusts levels and have a play

like this

675_thumbnail.jpeg

(click to enlarge)

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Martin,

You have collected a lot of data in your excellent image of the Milky Way and the colour can be teased out of it using any number of photographic manipulation programs with Adobe PhotoShop at the high cost end or the truly superb 'The Gimp' at the other end as it is complete free of charge yet has most of the features of PhotoShop! 'The Gimp' can be downloaded from here:- http://www.gimp.org

I hope you don't mind (I'll delete it if you do!) but you might be interested in what a quick play in PhotoShop has released from your image in the way of colour:-

martin_milky_way.jpg

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Hi Martin

That is a super image. What were the setting on your camera? Going to give that a go as soon as the clouds clear.

Jonathen

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Very good capture of a wealth of data. The post-processing certaintly brought out a lot more color. Good job to all.

Doug

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Very nice indeed. I didn't know that you can do up to 30s exposures without an EQ mount! :shock: what program did u use to stack it? and did u move camera at all between shots? :D I wanna know 'cause I can't wait to try it myself 8)

Marius

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very nice image indeed Martin ,and looks like you got some good data there mate , and super edit by Steve ,

Rog

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Very nice indeed. I didn't know that you can do up to 30s exposures without an EQ mount! :shock: what program did u use to stack it? and did u move camera at all between shots? :) I wanna know 'cause I can't wait to try it myself 8)

Marius

I did not know either I could use 30s exposure :D I just tried different exposures and it wokred. I used DeepSkyStacker for stacking the frames ( It was the first time I used it :p) I did not move the camera between the shots because the image is widefield and I was capturing it for about 10mins so it was not necesary. DeepSkyStacker has done all hard work for me :lol:

Thanks for your comments anyway!

Martin :lol:

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I hope you don't mind (I'll delete it if you do!) but you might be interested in what a quick play in PhotoShop has released from your image in the way of colour.

Not at all mate. :lol: You have done very good job in pulling more colour out of my image. Yes Gimp is very good, I got multi-boot system and I do prefer using Linux to Windows, especially to Vista :D

Martin :p

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very nice image indeed Martin ,and looks like you got some good data there mate , and super edit by Steve ,

Rog

Thanks Rog

I used ISO1600, do you think ISO800 would yield better result?

Martin :D

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Hi Martin

That is a super image. What were the setting on your camera? Going to give that a go as soon as the clouds clear.

Jonathen

I set the ISO to 1600, exposure to 30s and took 18 images. It's great fun learning to use DSLR for DSO :D

Martin :lol:

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800 would not be so noisy as 1600, but you I think you might need more images to stack.

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That's a fine DSLR shot Martin, made even better with Steve's colour 'tweak'.

Dave

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Martin, the advantage of using a lower ISO number is that you will yield slightly better colour saturation and less 'noise' but this will be at the expense of exposure time which will need to double for the same light collection. Personally, I never go above ISO 800 except for focussing as I find that ISO 800 gives the best 'balance' between between good signal to noise ratio and exposure time - you just need more frames to stack!

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Martin, the advantage of using a lower ISO number is that you will yield slightly better colour saturation and less 'noise' but this will be at the expense of exposure time which will need to double for the same light collection. Personally, I never go above ISO 800 except for focussing as I find that ISO 800 gives the best 'balance' between between good signal to noise ratio and exposure time - you just need more frames to stack!

Thanks Steve, it makes sense now :D

Martin :-D

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Sparkly Milky Way widefield. Like that a lot

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