Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

themos

binocular collimation procedure

Recommended Posts

I think that my 10x50 Bressers from Lidl may need collimating. I have 3 pairs at home (plus one in unopened box) so I should be able to run some comparison of the state of collimation of each. I discovered the two small screws (one on each side), under the rubber cover, on the top surface that carries the lettering, close to the edge nearest the eyepiece. Presumably they move the prisms. I found a collimation guide in

http://www.cloudynights.com/item.php?item_id=416

It talks of more than one screw for each prism. Is that likely to be the case for these Bressers and where is it? Any advice welcome. Thank you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't advise sorry, but I wanted to say a big Thank you. That link is just what I need.

Good luck

Anthony

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey, cheers, you're welcome!

come on people, there must be hundreds of these Bressers out there...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sometimes those screws don't collimate themselves, they simply enable you to take off the cover, which will reveal collimation screws underneath. Another thought is that the problem with ZCF binoculars like the Lidl Bressers is sometimes not the prisms but one of the eyepieces being knocked slightly out of line - Hugh.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Hugh. I have taken a photo of the position of the screw (one on each side) that I know about.

573_thumbnail.jpeg

(click to enlarge)

I can see the Philips (crosshead) kind of screw that, presumably, secures the cover as well. It's at the 9 o'clock position from the one the screwdriver's in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sometimes those screws don't collimate

Another thought is that the problem with ZCF binoculars like the Lidl Bressers is sometimes not the prisms but one of the eyepieces being knocked slightly out of line

Yup. One screw per prism only on these but the prisms are cemented in place at the base. As Steve said in an earlier thread - when they're outta line, at least you can make a good MONOcular.

Here's the location of the screw for the front prism - for what it's worth;

post-13013-133877329154_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks! It looks like there's no collimation for these cheap ones. Oh well. I have three to try and choose the best from. The kids will have to do with the slightly dodgy ones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I suspect that there may still be a way of adjusting the Lidl prisms. In some of the old European ZCF binoculars both prisms move inside the housing but in others one is fixed to the base while the other one moves, and they can look as if nothing's meant to shift. I've only got one Lidl and they're not selling them at the moment, and with my DIY record I'm a bit reluctant to open up the innards in case it all falls apart. I wimped out with my old Wray and had it done by an expert - Hugh.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried all three of them yesterday evening. I had targets at about a mile and I couldn't spot a difference in effort to merge the images. Maybe it was just a bad-brain day I had originally.

Oh! I also took some avian afocals:

577_thumbnail.jpeg

(click to enlarge)

576_thumbnail.jpeg

(click to enlarge)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anthony pointed me to this thread as he new I had collimation problems with both my bresser bins from Lidl.

Last night I had some time to kill while shooting The bubble so I decided to give it a go.

I found that when the adjustment screw was tightend, the prism moved (in the wrong direction for me) but when I undid the adjustment screw the prism did not come back to its starting point or as far as I needed it to to Aline the two barrels.

To overcome this I took the eyepiece's off and the top covers, then I undid the adjustment screws all the way out and pushed the prism over towards the adjustment screw.

in doing this the cement holding the prism in cracked .

Next I added a generous amount hot glue to the points where the cement was.

I used hot glue because when it hardens it is still quite rubbery, so when I screwed the adjustment screw back to it's mid point, there would be some resistance as it would be squashing the prism against the hot glue.

I repeated this procedure on the prism on the other barrel.

The result was I was able to adjust both prisms in both directions equally as the hot glue was acting as a spring.

To aline the two barrels I mounted the bins on a tripod and pointed them at a star.

The first thing I did was to move one prism quite far in both directions to gauge the movement of the star relative to the star in the other barrel.

once I had a feel for the X Y axis of both prisms I left one prism quite far out ( very obviously two stars that my brain could not correct for) I then aligned the other prism so it was sitting directly below the star image from the other barrel along its axis.

This was very easy to do and I could be sure that this prism was set to the other.

Doing the second was not so easy because as i moved it along its axis to meet with the star image from the previously set prism my brain would try to merge the two before it was set right.

I over came this by sitting back 4" from the eyepieces and only looking at the split star for a fraction of a second, and then making a small adjustment.

When I was happy that the star images from both barrels were aligned I found Once again I had pin sharp stars with no double images, and mine were bad, I could see two moons. :shock:

So I set about the other pair and did the same and these are now spot on too.

If you want to give this a go, you do so at your own risk. :cool:

My binos were useless as they were, and after all I only risked the £10 cost of them in having a go. :wink:

Hope this helps.

Mike

post-13376-133877329192_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tons of information there, thanks Mike. I have an idea about "seeing" the difference of the two optical trains (left and right) based on the spotlight effect when you shine a light beam into the eyepieces. Lots to try out and think about.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been convinced for some time that one of my Lidl 10x50 Bressers was badly out of collimation, I could see two moons. So I decided to play with the adjustment screw for the back prisms for both the left and right sides. The screw did move the prism, both when turning clockwise and anticlockwise. Luckily, the screw on the right side moved the right-side image in an almost perpendicular direction to the movement of the left image by the left-side screw so by turning both I was able to move the left and right images closer to where they should be. I now get proper, "wow" views of the moon and the sky. Unfortunately, I was a bit stupid and removed more of the rubbery sleeve than I needed to when I was looking for the screws, so I need to glue it back in place. But I am very pleased with the result.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

here is link to my video on you tube on this subject , hope it helps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I collimated my liddl bins.

I used the two screws on top, underneath the rubber on the prism housing and also the two similar screws on the bottom under the same bit of rubber. This is the rubber hand grip with Bresser printed on it in the picture above. You will need to re-glue it down later.

I Projected the sun onto a fixed board with the correct inter pupil distance drawn on to a horizontal line (to get the vertical collimation correct). Took a bit of fiddling but it worked.

Edited by part timer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for this, I've just got my old pair of bins collimated.

Just one moon again, yay!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Damned handy thread this - after my son dropped my Lidl £10 specials I thought they were bound for the bin - but I've got them nice and crisp again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so much for this thread! The 30-odd year old Greenkats that my Granddad gave me when I was knee-high, have just shown a proper clean image for the first time in years.

I'll admit, I got lucky. Literally the first 1mm turn of the first screw (chosen at random I might add) and - ping - the double-image I'd been putting up with for years corrected itself.

I consider myself very lucky! Thanks again. ;)

Edited by Geogaddi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3 of my binos are out of col, this thread is great. Thank you for the usefull tips.

I will be sawing away and hammering those adjustment screws with a drill.

I got a soldering iron in case it goes wrong! To hit it with.

I will have one moon.

I will have one moon.

I will have one moon.

I will have one moon.

I will have one moon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that my 10x50 Bressers from Lidl may need collimating. I have 3 pairs at home (plus one in unopened box) so I should be able to run some comparison of the state of collimation of each. I discovered the two small screws (one on each side), under the rubber cover, on the top surface that carries the lettering, close to the edge nearest the eyepiece. Presumably they move the prisms. I found a collimation guide in

http://www.cloudynights.com/item.php?item_id=416

It talks of more than one screw for each prism. Is that likely to be the case for these Bressers and where is it? Any advice welcome. Thank you.

I also suggest you open the suspect optics compartment (one of two, each for one eye), take out all small screws and loosen everything as much as you can, so you can lift the dust/light covers, just to make sure your new flash and loud brand binoculars were a) put together properly in China (I'm not a xenophobe, we are multicultural and inclusive), and B) that when they shipped them to you in a box from accross the coast, then nothing went terribly out of place, they din't drop the package, the plane didn't bump too much, etc...

This would be your step No. Zero.

Then you can perhaps proceed to Step 1 - finding the collimation screws.

I was quite dissappointed to see that my new US$176 Barska Gladiator from Optics Planet for tripod mount gave me freaky foggy images of our beautiful landscapes in the right eye, but when I opened the right optics compartment, then I realised the brace that holds the Porro-prism in place was not even placed properly at point of manufacture, so I had to move it to it's proper position, so perhaps now the prism will move to where it should be?...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.