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Xbox Livecam Mod (Cliff)


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OK, as promised, two images of Jupiter, one from the Xbox cam, the other from the Toucam Pro II. You can see the Toucam is more sensitive as it picked up two moons and there is more detail on Jupiter

I went off Cliff's instructions and figured I would take pictures and explain in a bit more detail...Thanks for the initial mod Cliff. Here is the beginning...Materials used: 1. livecam 2. Plastic ru

Found another bit of film from last night which gives a little more detail from the xboxcam...

Posted Images

Here what night sky looks like just using the modded camera itself it's own lens.

Took last night on latest modded cam.

196282_10151440711427288_1243563106_n.jpg

Unprocessed image Ideal for meteors/ ufo's/

Software used Linux xubuntu using wxastrocapture.

Edited by Stargazing_Cliff
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Went out last night with Xbox cam and got this after some work in Registax 5.1.

post-26268-135940425326_thumb.jpg

Two issues I have. There is a horrible line across it as seen in this image:

post-26268-135940429759_thumb.jpg

and it's a tad red. I'm hoping an IR filter inserted into the adaptor may help next time?

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Went out last night with Xbox cam and got this after some work in Registax 5.1.

post-26268-135940425326_thumb.jpg

Two issues I have. There is a horrible line across it as seen in this image:

and it's a tad red. I'm hoping an IR filter inserted into the adaptor may help next time?

I have found a slight colour issue using the xbox cam, but not quite the same as the image you posted - did you remove the stock IR filter glass? If so then maybe either try to replace it or get a quality screw in type. I'm pretty sure it will help with the colouring though you managed a nice amount of surface detail there.

That line looks like an alignment problem in Registax. These I have also come across, especially with multiple alignment points. The best stacking program -IMO- is Autostakkert!2, and very easy to use. You'll still need to put the end result through reg5 or reg6 to do wavelets sharpen but hopefully the final image should improve.

Still, thats a great result from the xbox cam - and by the sounds of it they can only get better. :)

Regards

Aenima

Edited by Aenima
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I went off Cliff's instructions and figured I would take pictures and explain in a bit more detail...Thanks for the initial mod Cliff.

6695872767_cf5c122e3b.jpg

Here is the beginning...Materials used:

1. livecam

2. Plastic rubber cement

3. Small flat head and phillips screw drivers.

4. Gerber or small saw blade with a knife to smooth edges out.

5. 1.25" PVC plumber pipe (grab the cheapest one you can find I spent $1.24 for this on pictured)

Steps:

1. Unscrew lense from camera and remove...it will screw out just a little ways, but find the light gray clip on outerpiece and pop it off casing to unscrew it the rest of the way and remove it.

6695874751_2a8987156b.jpg

2. Remove the front casing from the camera body...this is by far the most tedious task and it will mess up the casing as stated by Cliff. You want the flat head to slide to the front of the casing not the back like it looks like you should be doing. Dont worry about hitting the board as working the flat tip into the crack will contact a plastic clear piece that connects in side of the casing...this is what needs to be pryed out to get the front piece to come off...take you time it is a bit of a hassle to get off. If someone else finds an easier way please share this.

6695882457_5a11138d18.jpg

6695878545_1bb37f6ef2.jpg

3. Remove two screws on the board and the two screws holding the USB cable and bottom mount to remove the back plate of the case.

4. Remove the two screws on the back of the board that hold the IR cut filter and it will fall right off...this is the point when you need to start being a bit careful so you don't mess up the chip.

6695876651_97942f5495.jpg

5. Here is a close up of the board. In this step we want to destroy the LED lights on the board so the heat from them doesn't effect the chip. I have lebeled them for you but to find all four I just plugged the camera into the computer for a split second and saw their location.

In order to break them, I used a pair of needle nose pliers to crush them...the top two you can crush fron the sides of the LED and the bottom two because of other components you need to crush them from the top...be careful doing this as it can damage the board (it doesn't take a lot of pressure). To test them just plug the camera back into the computer and run sharpcap.

Link to large picture: Click Here

6696001041_ae14035fa4.jpg

6. Now screw your board and usb mount back onto the back casing and then clip the front mount back onto the back mount of the case.

6695880557_977d42feff.jpg

7. Lastly, cut a 2" pice of the 1.25" pvc pipe, smooth it out with a knife or sand paper and cement it onto the camera's front mount...let set and enjoy the views.

6695886235_2a60740a00.jpg

6695884379_05b7385bba.jpg

Make sure your scope "adapter" is facing straight up while it sets and dries or you will get running glue or it will fall off ;).

See thr black an grey bi peice out ov the webcam do u leave it out?
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Went out last night with Xbox cam and got this after some work in Registax 5.1.

post-26268-135940425326_thumb.jpg

Two issues I have. There is a horrible line across it as seen in this image:

post-26268-135940429759_thumb.jpg

and it's a tad red. I'm hoping an IR filter inserted into the adaptor may help next time?

Went out last night with Xbox cam and got this after some work in Registax 5.1.

post-26268-135940425326_thumb.jpg

Two issues I have. There is a horrible line across it as seen in this image:

post-26268-135940429759_thumb.jpg

and it's a tad red. I'm hoping an IR filter inserted into the adaptor may help next time?

cracking pic m8 I've got 200p dob butt struggle 2 get much detail.
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I found the the best way to open them up is to use a blunt dinner knife, to sort of lever them open down the joint on the side. That way the leverage is spead over a larger area and you dont make the plasic. I have opened mine loads of time and you would be hard press to tell, apart from missing IR filter of couse!

And yes if your doing prime focus pictures you leave out the lens.

Simon.

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I found the the best way to open them up is to use a blunt dinner knife, to sort of lever them open down the joint on the side. That way the leverage is spead over a larger area and you dont make the plasic. I have opened mine loads of time and you would be hard press to tell, apart from missing IR filter of couse!

And yes if your doing prime focus pictures you leave out the lens.

Simon.

Yes, this is a good idea - a dinner knife or a thin teaspoon sliding it down the right hand side, then try the top along down the left side.

The lens can be screwed back on afterwards if its needed but for planets take it out and add an adapter (about 11 quid on ebay) so the telescope becomes the lens (primefocus).

Regards

Aenima

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Thanks for your comments. I did remove the Xbox filter and have one coming in the post for the adaptor to try!

Will have a look at the stakkert thing too!

Its really easy to use, and free. That way the issues with registax6 will be solved but you will still have the bonus of the excellent wavelets feature that registax5 doesnt have (reg6 has sliders for both sharpen and noise reduction which kinda work together.) :)

Remember to save output stack in folder, marked with a prefix you'll recognise, ie 'My stack' (you'll see what I mean when you run Autostakkert).

Regards

Aenima

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I just done test with xbox cam left glass ir filter on still over exposes too bright even with 50mm

trying to look at like orion nebula stars.

i prefer to use this cam with it's own lens or even add different lens like i done with me Cliffcam.

mite try it on moon like mite try it with barlow as that make light lesser.

does anyone else use this cam as space all skycam rather than using it on telescope ?.

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Just modded another xbox cam this time i'm modding with 2 adapter fittings so i can use either on me 50mm or me Newt going to test when skies clear.

More xbox mods, Cliff?

You have done loads now, you must be able to do them in seconds after all that practice. Nice one.

Regards

Aenima

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Yes Aenima i modded somet for me 50mm telescope

seems to work not too bad i would say on sun using baarder solar filter over telescope lens

if they was any more transits or solar eclipses this would been ideal :)

can see the 3 sun spots for todays sun anyways so thats cool

30th Jan 2013

14957_10151444897967288_751232823_n.jpg

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Test the xbox cam with it's normal lens just point and shoot put it against a wide ep through me 76mm telescope and interesting it kind showed up the Orion nebula little bit maybe little work stacking mite show up some clusters.

going to make adapter keep the cam stable against wide ep.

553045_10151445276122288_607870151_n.jpg

Edited by Stargazing_Cliff
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Its really easy to use, and free. That way the issues with registax6 will be solved but you will still have the bonus of the excellent wavelets feature that registax5 doesnt have (reg6 has sliders for both sharpen and noise reduction which kinda work together.) smile.gif

Remember to save output stack in folder, marked with a prefix you'll recognise, ie 'My stack' (you'll see what I mean when you run Autostakkert).

Regards

Aenima

There are wavelet settings on registax v5, its the forth button along near the top after the 'stack' button.
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There are wavelet settings on registax v5, its the forth button along near the top after the 'stack' button.

Yes, sorry, Reg5 has the wavelets, it was the extra denoise/sharpen feature that reg6 has that works well with a pre-stacked PNG file from AS!2 that, in my opinion, is the best wavelets for the job.

I used to stack with registax but every so often the 'broken' effect of multi-alignment points showed up until one day I noticed Autostakkert!2 seemed to give consistently good stacks but lacked wavelets and my better jupiter images were coming from that particular combination of programs (VirtualDub-castrator-autostakkert-registax6)...and sharpcap to capture.

It might sound long and complicated but I just stuck with what I thought worked the best. :p

Regards

Aenima

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Yes, sorry, Reg5 has the wavelets, it was the extra denoise/sharpen feature that reg6 has that works well with a pre-stacked PNG file from AS!2 that, in my opinion, is the best wavelets for the job.

I used to stack with registax but every so often the 'broken' effect of multi-alignment points showed up until one day I noticed Autostakkert!2 seemed to give consistently good stacks but lacked wavelets and my better jupiter images were coming from that particular combination of programs (VirtualDub-castrator-autostakkert-registax6)...and sharpcap to capture.

It might sound long and complicated but I just stuck with what I thought worked the best. tongue.gif

Regards

Aenima

Ah, I've not tried Autostakkert2, I'll give it a go. You cant have to much free software in my mind :grin:

Thanks Steve

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Yes, this is a good idea - a dinner knife or a thin teaspoon sliding it down the right hand side, then try the top along down the left side.

The lens can be screwed back on afterwards if its needed but for planets take it out and add an adapter (about 11 quid on ebay) so the telescope becomes the lens (primefocus).

Regards

Aenima

In the interest of keeping this an inexpensive mod I found an adapter with its own built in IR filter - however, its only a bit of glass very similar to the stock one inside the xbox camera itself, but fixed into the small end of the nosepiece rather than a screw-on one usually bought separately. But for the price and easy use it may work well in a lot of cases. :)

http://www.ebay.com/...vectorid=229466

Soz, that is dollars - this is in pounds :http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Webcam-Adapter-4-telescope-1-25-Philips-SPC900NC-840K-Toucam-PCVC8-UV-IR-cut-/200841839461?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D5265585657009569906%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D200841839461%26

For a much higher quality option, which will also fit other webcams if you upgrade this seems a good choice...

https://sslrelay.com...nomy.co.uk/cart

or a cheap separate adapter on its own for £12...

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5899727acf

Hope this is helpful

Regards

Aenima

Edited by Aenima
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True! especially such great programs like AS!2 and Registax, not to mention DeepSkyStacker - hugely essential and powerful tools without which our attempts at imaging would be more of a nightmare than it already is. :)

Credit to the guys who developed and shared their hard work!

Im currently fitting the replacement alt-bolts on my EQ5 - the strain of Pol-/-aligning is just too much on the soft skywatcher ones, just trying to remember which way round they go. :p

Regards

Aenima

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